Questions about engine parts

[VWNate]

Rome, I lust for your Bug ! .

The burnt engine has to be removed because there are four rubber seals in th oil cooler that need replacement .

Whist the engine is out you can address the sheet metal and engine seal, sub harness etc. .

As far as engine removal, DO NOT do what I and many VW Mechanic's do :

A trolley jack (used craigslist or pawn shop, dirt cheap) and some blocks of wood on it will raise the car *much* higher .

Once the engine is loose, lower it to the ground then jack it back up *just* enough to put some 2X4's under the heater box so you can roll the jack back out....

Only lift the car from the center of the pan and always use a bit of wood, blocks (construction sites : FREE) or plywood so the jack pad doesn't damage the car's pan .

You can do this ! it's simple if fiddly , you'll learn a lot and have GREAT PRIDE once it's running again .

Keep the dog house ! it's world's better .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[DanaJT]

Ok so I've been slowly purchasing the parts needed. I found my jack stands and I'm ready to pull the engine as soon as I get some time.

I have a question as I need a final part - the carburetor.
If I were to use the PerTronix Distributor with Ignitor 1 Ignition Module, what kind of carb should I use or get?
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Justin
DanaArts

[VWNate]

The stock Solexes work very well if they're clean, properly adjusted and don't have tiny little emission control main jets ~ this last is far more common than most realize .

I'd never run a 1600 with anything smaller than a #130 main jet .

Before you touch the carby, get it running, do a 60 second breakin, stop it and lt cool over night, re check th valve gaps and fire it up, check the ignition timing, learn what and where (because it varies) the TDC mark is and use it as a base point .

Pertronix is a good setup -if- you follow the directions to the letter ~ the coil *must* match the Pertronix, it'll say in the directions what resistance the primary side of the coil should be ~ these will be the two smaller wires, # 15 (power) and #31 (ground or points side) .

Often the stock coil will test in the correct range but a modern Epoxy filled coil will always be your best bet .

Take some time to get the ignition sorted and adjusted correctly before you even glance at the carby .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[DanaJT]

Thanks so much. I'll check that all out once I get to that stage. Where do I get a Solex carb?
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Justin
DanaArts

[VWNate]

Okay ;

there's likely to be a lot of debate here, I son't think SOLEX still makes them but there's millions of them out there .

A 30PICT-1 was the original one but many versions with the suffix changed one number will also fit and work properly .

Just for grins, take some time and look on Amazon, E-Bay and perhaps the classifieds here, look for stock carburator for 1970 Typ I 1600 single port engine .

See what you get, there's lots of Chinese ones that seem to work fine but Chinese quality control is iffy sometimes .

You're in Az. so there should be a VW club / swap meet / mechanic near you .

I don't know if I have any and even if I did I don't have a running 1600 engine to test and set it up on .

If you can find a VW Enthusiast who's honest and not greedy I imagine $50 will get what you want & need .

A little side topic here, it's very, VERY important so don't ignore this or you'll be faced with a fire again .

USE ONLY THE PROPER SIZE METRIC HOSE ! .

Many here do all manner of weirdness then blame the mandatory clear plastic fuel filter when the engine catches fire .

More in this in excruciating detail if you want, I figure others are lurking and will chime in now .

Don't worry, you're doing fine and will get it going ere long .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[DanaJT]

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for one. It's a little confusing to know which one will work best with so many types out there. I'll probably call around and ask local shops and see what they say.

I"ve seen so far A
30PICT-1
30/31 PICT-3
Dual Arm Carburetor (30/31 PICT)

and I'm sure there is many more. Not sure which one works best with the 1600cc engine and the PerTronix Distributor. I'll keep researching.
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Justin
DanaArts

[VWNate]

Well ;

I was in my garage today and ran across an old BROSOL (Solex made in Brazil) 30/31-PICT- carby, I also have a kit for it and I could clean it and install the kit, mail it to you and see how you like it .

I wish I had an engine to dial it in on but that's not too difficult .

Before adding the Pretronix I'd suggest making it run on the point then when you change to Pertronixe you'll know it all ready run well .

Just a thought .

I didn't expect to stumble across one .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[DanaJT]

Nate, That would be great. I'd really appreciate it. Let me know how much.
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Justin
DanaArts

[VWNate]

This will take a few days, Okay? .

I'm up to my elbows in old Mercedes and Bug repairs .

The So. Cal. TT Ride is approaching fast and I have works to do yet .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[Kafer_Mike]

[DanaJT]

Nate,
No rush as my project will take me months to finish. I am still about to pull the engine which will take a few week ends.
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Justin
DanaArts

[VWNate]

I'm unsure how much you know here, if I don't give sufficient info or too much tell me .

Where to support the car as you're working on it depends a lot of the jack stands you have ~ the beefier the better, I like ratcheting typ and have some old ones, prolly Harbor Fright, they don't go up as high as my old 3 ton pin typ ones do but they're *much* faster/easier and I have two trolly jacks and a bunch of old 2X4's I use to hold the engine when it's on the ground , I place a short stack underneath each heater box right on the seam .

Practice will teach you how low you can set them and still roll the trolly jack underneath .

I stopped using scissors and other jacks in the early 1970's so if you're stuck there or broke, look 'round, plenty of kids here who do things the hard wayand can teach you how .

Used hydraulic trolley jacks are everywhere and dirt cheap ~ be sure to get one with the handle that has a pin to hold it in place, failure to do so will really chap your @$$ and give us ammunition to tease you with for decades .


Chocking the wheels is good but not critical unless the parking brake is kaput .

The engine comes out easiest with the car as close to leven as you can get it .

Then you lower it down until it sets on the wooden blocks, then you roll the jack out from underneath and place a 2X4 on the jack's pad and jack it up again using only the center of the pan, now it'll go up high enough to roll the engine out on jack # 2 .

If you're $eriou$ly $trapped you can tip the engine by lifting the exhaust and dra it out from underneath the car, this isn't a good thing to do if you like heat .

DO NOT BUY THE TINY LITTLE KAMIKAZE JACKS ! .

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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[DanaJT]

Here are the 2 ton jack stands I have which are 2 of the yellow and 2 of the grey. I also have a 3 ton low profile jack.

Just click anywhere on the next sentence to see the image

This is my first time and so this will be a huge learning curve for me and a great experience I hope, so thanks for the advice and explanation. I appreciate it.

Today I cleaned up the inside of the car a bit. First time since the fire. There will be a lot of work to do, but I just need to get it running first and then I can work on some other stuff later on. Just want it drivable again. Not looking to fix everything.
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Justin
DanaArts

[VWNate]

For some reason the images don't show .

This isn't a difficult job, once you've done it but the learning curve may be steep .

One jack will suffice, began now to gather up 3' long pieces of 2X4 or what ever, you're going to need to stack them to hold the engine after it's out so you can move the jack and use it to raise up the car .

I hope you have Concrete to work on ? . grass / dirt is a non starter, blacktop is dicey as it can kill you .

I'm sure others here will help walk you through it .

? Are you familiar with John Muir's "Idiot Manual" ? .

A copy is worth it's weight in gold .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[DanaJT]

I know it's weird they don't show, but if you click on the sentence it will take you to the image. It's not hosted here on the samba.

Yes I have some wood or can get some and I have a 21' x 21' concrete pad that it's on right now.

I'm not familiar with the "Idiot Manual", I'll check it out.

Thanks for your explanations. I'm slowly building up the confidence.
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Justin
DanaArts

[VWNate]

Got it ~ I have to wait a while before the images show .

Looks like you're on your way .

Don't sweat it and don't freak out when you get stuck .

It really is all very simple but bewildering the first few times you do it before you catch the rhythm .

You'll be *very* glad you gathered the wood scraps .

If you don't have a creeper use an old shower curtain ~ they allow you to slide underneath the car on your back .

They're dirt cheap too, under $5 a Ross For Less, DD's Discounts, and so on .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[DanaJT]

Ok so with the help of a friend we were able to remove the engine successfully. The most difficult part were two things.

1. Could not get the fuel line off between the fuel filter and metal line. In the end we just cut the hose. There is no fuel in the tank as of right now.
2. Last time I had this bug rebuilt by someone else they change things around and I had to remove one of the engine bolts from underneath the car. The newer fan shroud was in the way.

But it's done and I can now try and clean it up. It's outside so I'm covering it up with plastic bags for now until I can get something better. Hopefully I can get a lot done before any winter rain comes.

Thanks for everyone's ideas and help. I think the harder part will be installing the engine once everything is put back together. The removal was easy because it had no parts on it. lol

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Justin
DanaArts

[67rustavenger]

Justin, Before you tear anything more off that engine.
Do a clean up of the outer tins and everything else.
Place a plastic bag over the intake manifold and distributor. Spray the whole thing down with Junk Engine bright, let it soak a little and hit it with a garden water hose.
Avoid the plastic bag covered parts, to prevent water from getting in the engine.
Make sure that you have your sparkplug in too, before cleaning the outside.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Cusser]

[Cusser]