Front end clunk - only when dry

[Rem17]

Hello all, I’m hoping to get some advice on diagnosing a cluncking type noise on the front end of my vanagon. It occurs anytime the suspension moves in/out however right after I wash my van and have cleaned sprayed out the wheel well the noise is gone until it dries up. I’ve had most of the suspension components replaced in the last year and have also removed the shocks to confirm they aren’t involved. The sound is somewhat like the coil springs binding (ba boing) noise but the springs are new as well and I’ve tried lubricant on them with no success. I’ve tried some lube on various bushings as well to try and eliminate the sound but it reboot goes away when the whole front suspension is soaked.

[MarkWard]

Sounds like you replaced everything. A picture of your suspension and the actual parts used.

Water obviously is acting as a lubricant. On a stock Vanagon suspension, the most common noise even when the vans were in warranty was the upper control arm bushings. A shot of CRC or WD 40 to the upper arms would quiet them up for a spell. That is part of the popularity of the aftermarket poly type bushings with monkey snot.

Get a spray bottle and try spraying one spot at a time to see if that will help pin point VS douching with a hose.

I’ve seen lots of photos here and threads where aftermarket springs are in coil bind at ride height. That’s the stupidest design I have come across with aftermarket springs.

Ours is a stock 82 stock springs stock bushings with yellow bilsteins. Maybe if the van sits 6 months, I hear a little groan that quickly disappears. Report back with your picture and actual shopping list.

One last point. It’s not mentioned in the manual, but the upper control arm bolts should be torqued with the suspension carrying the weight. Poly bushings it shouldn’t matter.
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[IdahoDoug]

My brake pads rattle over washboard and it drives me nuts. Next time it's happening, gently press the brake pedal and see if it stops....
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Rem17]

The only part of the front suspension that hasn’t been replaced is the lower ball joint, working on sorting out how to post a photo. It does still make the noise if the brakes are engaged or not.

[DanHoug]

[Rem17]

That was my thoughts as well but I’ll have to double check with the shop who was doing the work. I lubed up all the control arm bushes as much as possible from the outside and no improvement. Will soap up the springs tonight and see if that improves anything.

[MarkWard]

I don’t get it. Why does someone go to the trouble to put a spring kit together and have some of the coils in bind at ride height? Too late now. I’d figure out how to get some slip material between the coils binding. Cabinet makers use it. It’s a Teflon product, not for pipe threads. That will help the coils not bind on each other

Those upper A arm bushings if new were recently submerged in salt water. The alignment camber is set with those. So, you need an alignment after the bushings are replaced.

Some years ago I suggested putting a spring rate thread together. Springs are rated for overall free height and how many pounds of pressure it takes to compress one inch. I understand using variable rate springs, but they still shouldn’t bind at the ride height. Sorry.
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[Rem17]

They do brine here in the winter but the bushings were allegedly replaced last fall. I’m going to follow up with the shop that did the work and try to get some proof, will ultimately end up taking it elsewhere and get them to weigh in and make things right once things are sorted out. Go westy says the springs do not rotate when being compressed so the bind/unbind sound I thought I heard may not be correct. Thought I do think they’re wrong, MTB coils definitely rotate when compressed and i can’t see the difference. I’ll try to get something in between the first few coils to see if that alleviates the issue and will report back.

I appreciate the help so far, thanks all

[plummerdesign]

IDEA:

If the front shocks are not tight they will clunk.
The issue is at the top, where the silly inside hex rod needs to be held in place while the nut is tightened down. New rubber bushings are tough to obtain (KONI), and the old ones are OLD.
Take a look at that item. Might be that simple.
Another way to check for CLUNK is to get the vehicle up on a hydraulic rack at an alignment shop. Then get under it and pull down on the sway bar and tie rods.
Cheers,
Jeffery : )
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It is old and green and it makes me grin.
1984 Westfalia 1.9

[MarkWard]

When the spring coils are touching, that section of the spring is no longer part of the spring action. When sized properly, the suspension should move through its entire range without coil bind.

These springs will support the van, but not really thought out.

There is a good thread regarding upper control bushing quality here on the samba. I did mine so long ago, the quality was likely still in the part. There is one aftermarket stock type brand that was determined to be best. Don’t recall but worth searching for.
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[Christopher Schimke]

[Rem17]

I sprayed the upper control at bushings as well as the upper portion of the spring with WD40 yesterday morning, sound is gone. Unfortunately now I don’t know which location was the culprit for sure but I’d guess bushings. I had the springs coated with grease and had no improvement can’t see WD40 making a difference there. When the noise comes back I’ll be sure to be more diligent in verifying the source and will post my findings.

[MarkWard]

Thanks for reporting back. In my experience, the groan from an upper control arm bushing is usually just an annoyance. They’d have to be pretty worn to affect alignment. VW stuck with the design for all the years even though they were making noise during the warranty period back in the day.

I don’t usually run to install poly anything, but properly sized and lubricated, the poly bushings for the upper A arms T3 sells are an upgrade over what else stock aftermarket has to offer.
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