I bought a project... Need some motor advice. (73 914 w/ 1.8L)

[10degnorth]

Hello all, I recently picked up a rough but seemingly complete 73 914-4. It has a salvage title, been repainted, and allegedly swapped to a 1.8l (haven't pulled off the tin to check the numbers on top yet). It currently has an 009 and a pair of Weber 34 ICT's. It was apparently the previous owner's daily driver but was parked 6 years ago when the doors got stuck shut.

I have been working on getting it running for the last couple weeks without success. It took me longer than I would like to admit to figure out the timing. Currently I can crank the car and it will fire but not take off.

I finally did a compression test (open throttle, plugs out, but not warmed up since it doesn't start.) and found that I had 90, 100, 30, and 0 compression. The no compression didn't register on the gauge at all, I performed it a couple times on this cylinder to confirm the results weren't due to the gauge. I pulled the valve cover off and it seemed like both valves for the offending cylinder were moving. I went back and looked at the plugs from each cylinder and the 3 with compression all showed evidence of combustion and were black (I had previously cleaned them up) while the no-compression spark plug was wet with fuel. There are no other obvious leaks, my next step is to borrow a bore scope and check out the back side of the intake valve. My working theory is that maybe the seat collapsed. Alternative, I know that the PO was not a VW guy so I doubt he every adjusted the valves so an adjustment may be able to bring back that one cylinder if it is just really out of adjustment. Any thoughts on this?

I have the opportunity to pick up a 2.0 bus motor from a friend, he recently went through it and put about 15,000 miles on it before putting a Subaru in his 76 bus. I am aware that this motor would be a dog in the Porsche, not the mention having the dipstick in the wrong location. But would it make any sense to get it for the sake of making a franken motor between the 1.8L and the 2.0? Somewhere I read that the factory 2.0 pistons don't match up with the 66mm stoke rods, can anyone verify this?

My goal for this car would be to just get it moving as a driver and something to have fun with. I like how these cars are put together, I don't care about value, just happy to have one to work on. I have big dreams of a Subaru swap (better on a basket case than a show car right?) and mostly am just looking forward to a lot of learning, I know I have some rust repair in my future for sure as I removed the remains of the battery tray and have been investigating the hell hole.

I have more time and tools than sense and money.
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1973 Porsche 914 (Project) HELP!

1984 Wolfsburg Vanagon (Daily): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=773912&highlight=

1988 Microsquirted, Wolfsburg Vanagon (Sold): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=708000&highlight=

Microsquirt Conversion Guide (Work now Discontinued): https://docs.google.com/document/d/1laXykNPbRYS8MT...2imqd2pnx7

[10degnorth]

_________________
1973 Porsche 914 (Project) HELP!

1984 Wolfsburg Vanagon (Daily): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=773912&highlight=

1988 Microsquirted, Wolfsburg Vanagon (Sold): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=708000&highlight=

Microsquirt Conversion Guide (Work now Discontinued): https://docs.google.com/document/d/1laXykNPbRYS8MT...2imqd2pnx7

[Root_Werks]

You certainly have a dead cylinder. What's the valve lash like on the offending cylinder? Is one really loose like the valve is hanging up or bent (won't close)?

If the valve lash seems good, then it's likely engine pull time, pull the heads and see what things look like inside.

Bus motors can run in 914's, but they are typically stump pullers. I'd rather have a stock 1.7 FI than any version of a Bus 2.0 in a 914.

BUT, if it gets it on the road and the price is right, go for it!

-Dan
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When I set my timing, why do I flush, then take a pee?

[10degnorth]

[Wolfgangdieter]

Dropped valve seat due to cracked head?

That is a lot of rust where the longitudinal "were". I'd do a close rust examination before putting any money in it. Repaint could be hiding a lot of bondo rust repairs! Your issue with stuck doors could be caused by this. I hate the tin worm.
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CMC '57 Porsche Speedster Replica and Dolphin boat tailed full pan VW MOD-T Street Buggy

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I DEARLY love 914s but you would be much better off spending money on a better car, this one has had heavy mistreatment, poor metal patching, and poor paintwork.

[10degnorth]

I hear what you all are saying. I have been lurking on 914World for the last couple months as well as taking a deep dive into the lengthy rustorations untaken there and on Youtube.

I am graduating college next month and don't have a money to throw at another tub and my goal here is to learn more than anything. I feel that any time that I put into this body learning to do rust repair is time well spent in my own skill set. Why not learn on a lost cause right? Like I said before, I have more time than money and a desire to learn on what I have sitting in front of me.

The external skin of the car seems to be in great shape, I have gone around it with a magnet and knocking and none of the panels seem bondo'ed up. The passenger front fender is blue on the bottom side while the rest of the car was originally yellow. It has a salvage title and I would guess that this is because of a front passenger impact. The PO claims to have daily driven the car 7 years ago and the tires don't show any unusual tread wear, but PO's claim don't mean much.

I think I am going to move ahead with the project, I have two loose lines on parts cars and I will see if the tubs are any better on those, but I am having trouble getting in contact with the owners. I also just had a 98 Subaru drop into my lap. My daily driver is a Subaru swapped 84 Vanagon and I would be interested in doing the same to the Porsche (I know it's blasphemy).

Anyway... wish me luck, I'll return with some bore-scope shots of the longs.
_________________
1973 Porsche 914 (Project) HELP!

1984 Wolfsburg Vanagon (Daily): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=773912&highlight=

1988 Microsquirted, Wolfsburg Vanagon (Sold): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=708000&highlight=

Microsquirt Conversion Guide (Work now Discontinued): https://docs.google.com/document/d/1laXykNPbRYS8MT...2imqd2pnx7

[wagen19]

[[email protected]]

if fuel injected I would remove the air flow meter, set the points dwell to 50 and see if you could light it off with a toot of starting fluid

[[email protected]]

the starting fluid is so volatile that it will blow excess buildup off of the valves, and maybe restore the compression

[Root_Werks]

[Backtotheeightiesagain]

The bus motor seems a good way of controlling the budget and saving time. If it is all good.
The original motor can be worked on at a leisurely pace. Finding the right original parts to add value.
Bus motors are hard worked but starting with more Cubic inches is never bad, any mods have greater effect.
They do rev with the right carbs etc but torque means response without changing down.