Engine Off Center After Install - ’63 Bug (Photos)

[OldSchoolVW's]

Thanks for these additional observations. Even if I don't respond quickly, know that I'm processing these comments and checking things as suggested.
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Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller

"But I also have to say, for the umpty-umpth time, that life isn't fair. It's just fairer than death, that's all." William Goldman

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[Chicken Helmet]

Interestingly enough, I have a similar problem. Looking forward to your resolution.

[OldSchoolVW's]

[Busstom]

I know this is of no comfort to you - especially since you're sure that it was squared up before this recent engine work - but to me it still seems like whatever's going on is happening at the fore end of the transaxle

Good job with the plumb bob hookup, but I would use some much thinner, more pliable string rather than "rope," it would be more precise. But what you've done seems to serve the intent here.

I just lifted the seat in my '66 convertible and snapped this pic (the shift rod is out at the moment). It seems like my shift lever is pointing pretty much dead straight, even given the shifter stick offset up front (I think the slight shifter offset to the left has a scant effect at the back end, what with traveling 4' from end to end (the length of the shift shaft). Maybe you can trig that out In other words, I don't think they'd skew the trans mounting to accommodate a minor offset of the shifter 4 feet away.

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My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[OldSchoolVW's]

[Busstom]

I would definitely replace the nose mount, you've got nothing to lose, and as aged as yours looks, I would think that the rubber is stiffened, a new one could provide you with a better motoring experience. However, there is literally zero adjustability in the nose mount, and it only goes one way up, with the open/flat sheet metal stud plate oriented up ^

And yes, comparing your nose cone to the chassis sheet metal (albeit slightly molested), it's clearly offset and angled to the left side of the car.

Are you absolutely 1000% certain this condition was not present before the recent work? Do you have any pics you could reference?
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My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[Busstom]

Oh, to change the nose mount with most your stuff hooked up:

- Remove bolts holding rear mounts to cradle
- Disconnect shift rod coupling
- Actuate throwout lever by hand and place 3/4" wooden block in front of T/O bearing fork
- Thread ratchet strap around trans (at lower mounts) and wrap around rear apron (or all the way out and around rear bumper)
- Slowly ratchet trans rearward just enough to slide old nose mount out and new one in

You'll feel the tension build on the ratchet strap because the axles will begin to pitch forward and slightly flex the spring plates outward, the bowden tube may also add some stiffness. But the brake lines won't become taut and the block under the throwout fork will provide enough slack in the clutch cable (you might skip the wood block, the throwout spring will just add a bit of tension to the ratchet pull, I wouldn't want your clutch cable to drop off the hook up front at the pedal).

This is how you can do it solo, or get a (really) strong buddy over to pull the works backwards while you swap mounts.
_________________
My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[OldSchoolVW's]

[OldSchoolVW's]

[aquifer]

[Busstom]

[Busstom]

I took some liberties with your pic to highlight some peculiarities...

For one, I have to wonder why somebody went ape-sh*t with the sheet metal around your shift coupler. The solid yellow lines literally follow the sheet metal edges that form the opening. In the upper-right (left rear of car) the metal is literally torn and separated, and almost looks like some metal is either missing or bent away out of view.

The centerline is, well, the centerline of your shifting apparatus, going straight into the nose cone.

Now, I know we're likely dealing with some parallax with the photo optics and whatnot, but the whole works looks very much shifted to the right in this photo (left side of car). It just doesn't look correct.

Can you observe the actual condition straight overhead and confirm whether this is the case? If it's truly offset like the image suggests, I would be looking at a lot of different things and measuring and comparing a bunch of different points.
_________________
My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[my59]

[OldSchoolVW's]

[Busstom]

The shim trick may work, it's worth a try, if for no other reason just to see what the result is. I'd just pay attention to the response of the shift coupler, make sure it remains all smooth and copacetic

You mention the left side stud of the nose mount being the pivot point: what I envision is, the back of the trans indeed wants to go leftward, but then where? Up, that's where, because the cradle is an arc, an upward arc, I can't see it going left without going up too. Edit: as I keep mulling this in my mind, I suppose if you could swing the entire nose cone to the right, it would kick the engine left and provide your desired outcome, I would just be surprised if some shims on the front mount accomplish that....I hope I'm wrong

I like my59's idea for slotting the washers, just like real alignment shims
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My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[OldSchoolVW's]

[OldSchoolVW's]

[Cusser]

[richparker]

Did you losen the nose cone mount and remove the coupler when you installed the new cradle mounts? If not, maybe things got shifted around and possibly bent during install. You did mention that installing the mounts was a PITA.
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[OldSchoolVW's]