Engine Off Center After Install - ’63 Bug (Photos)

[OldSchoolVW's]

It took the better part of this afternoon, but I finally got the old front bushing out. It is a VW bushing, maybe the original one, so it has a ridiculously long nub that fits into the rubber bushing in the bracket. I'd have just cut it off, but the old bushing was stuck on it and I didn't want to make yet another trip to the parts store for another one.

As you can see in the second photo, the bracket that the mount attaches to is bent and is no doubt the biggest contributor to the engine misalignment problem. I know photos don't lie, but it doesn't look as bad to the naked eye ... maybe lens distortion is exaggerating it a bit. Nevertheless, I'll need to address this somehow. I don't have the luxury of owning a lift, so this will need to be a flat-on-my-back-with-16-inches-of-ground-clearance approach. I haven't abandoned my shim-the-mount idea, I'd just like to get the right side of the bracket closer to where it belongs before putting the new mount in. Suggestions are most welcome.

Clearly VW was expecting the transmission to be removed when this mount design was developed.

Yes this hurts my eyes ...

_________________
Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller

"But I also have to say, for the umpty-umpth time, that life isn't fair. It's just fairer than death, that's all." William Goldman

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[Busstom]

Big time distortional skew! (Yes, I'm making up terms )
Are you ready to accept that it was this way all along?

I have to wonder how that happened, I'm a cynic, but I suspect it's got something to do with that torn sheet metal around the coupler. You really should straighten that out and realign it properly. The right tool for that is a Porto-Power using the duck-bill spreader. You may have to tool up a bit with plates and/or blocks.

And the front mounts are the same nowadays, they're not flatter or anything, that's why the trans needs to be wrenched rearward.
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My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[Busstom]

[Busstom]

https://www.amazon.com/REDLOONG-Hydraulic-Upgraded...&psc=1
_________________
My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[OldSchoolVW's]

[Busstom]

You need:
- A roll of good, sticky duct tape
- A stack of thin wood scraps, or a pack of these from your big-box store: https://www.amazon.com/Nelson-Wood-Shims-12-Pack/d...&psc=1

Then, here's what you do:
That area of the frame fork just adjacent the bent bracket is tapered as it gets thinner toward the engine; you need to build up a foundation to set the spreader against, this foundation needs to be square and perpendicular to the mounting face of the bracket (where the mount goes). This not only protects the fork, but it will keep the spreader from slipping out as your wife pumps the hydraulic jack.

So, using the wood shingle shims (or your thin wood scraps around the shop) and the duct tape, build up the area on the inside of the fork with wood...this is almost like building a house on a hill, you have to build the foundation to compensate for the slope, so the house sits level...same principle here, but you need to build out sideways with wood shims. Wrap the duct tape liberally around the whole fork tube, one wood plate/shim at a time, until you get to the point where you have a firm, solid wood base to wedge against. That's what you're doing, wedging the duckbill spreader between the fork tube (wood shims) and the bracket.

Once you have a space of about 1 inch between the two (the wood and the bent bracket), then you're ready to insert the duckbill spreader. You lay under the car (have your ruler nearby, too), and have your wife next to the car to operate the hand pump (i.e. the jack). Then tell her to start pumping while you manage the spreader. It's a slow, controlled process, the spreader will first start to compress and crunch the wood a little bit, then the wood will stop giving way and the bracket will start to move in the opposite direction.

Keep going until it's centered. Once it looks close, measure it. You will probably have to go a little past center, I suspect it will spring back a bit. Once you're all centered up and good, examine it closely and make sure there are no cracks in the bracket, I suspect it will be fine. Even if there is/are a little tiny crack(s), I'm sure they'll be harmless, this is a relatively low-stress area. And you won't do any harm to the fork tube.

That should be all it takes, maybe a couple hours work for a first-timer once you have the Porto Power in your garage.

[OldSchoolVW's]

Thanks for the detailed procedure. I have plenty of those shims in stock (leftover from remodeling projects). Duct tape is a given. Wife says she's on board with the plan as long as my life insurance premium is paid up.
_________________
Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller

"But I also have to say, for the umpty-umpth time, that life isn't fair. It's just fairer than death, that's all." William Goldman

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[Busstom]

Haha. So you've got shims from remodeling, you've got this.
_________________
My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[thomas.]

When I changed mine in a previous '62 hardtop in 2014 I took a few photos. Here's one for an idea of what it should look like. I can't figure how yours got that way unless it got hit in the rear. Or a P.O. tried replacing that rubber mount and had trouble and hacked it up.

[aquifer]

I don’t know if this will matter, or to what degree, but you might need to adjust your shift plate under the gear shift lever when you’re done.

When you push the front transmission mount back into alignment, the nose cone will move over, and the shift rod in the tunnel will move with it. The fulcrum for the shift rod will be the hanger bracket directly aft of the shift lever inside the tunnel. This will cause the front end of the shift rod to move laterally in the opposite direction that the nose cone moved. That might mean that your shift plate will need adjustment to re-align it.

Obviously not a huge deal, but if it doesn’t shift properly when you’re done, this might be why. Just thinking out loud.
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Current hobby vehicles:
1967 Beetle
1973 Beetle
1998 Jaguar XJR, restored myself, in near-immaculate condition

[chrisflstf]

You used to be able to buy those front mount brackets before. I dont know if they are still available, but probably are. If so, it might be better to cut that one off and weld in a new one

Still available at west coast metrics, so cal imports and others

[OldSchoolVW's]

Thanks for the reference photo Thomas. I was searching for a photo like that with no luck. It's helpful to know what it should look like.

Good point on the shift plate aquifer. I appreciate the forward thinking.

Yes, removing and welding in a new bracket would probably be the ideal, unfortunately, that doesn't fall within my skillset. Besides, I don't have a lift, which I assume would be essential for such a task. So the next best thing will be Steve's suggestion to reposition the bracket with the Porta Power Hydraulic Jack. I know it won't look like new, but I hope to get it as close as possible. Just going to take it slow and be patient. Once everything is back together, I'll see where I stand. There's always the shim idea to dial it in closer to correct if need be.
_________________
Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller

"But I also have to say, for the umpty-umpth time, that life isn't fair. It's just fairer than death, that's all." William Goldman

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[WrennMetallWerks]

I just had this feeling it had been this way for quite sometime.

If at all possible weld a new one on.
_________________
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Purpose Over Pleasure 🕊

“Hard Werk ⚒ God First
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[chrisflstf]

I dont think a porta power is gonna work in there. No room. You could pull the motor and trans, put it on jack stands. Cut off the old mount, clean to bare metal and hire someone to weld it in.. Aother solution is to get rid of the nose cone mount and use a mid mount, like a berg unit or others.

[Busstom]

You'll be good, just do exactly what I said. Maybe some people have never held or used a duckbill spreader, they are THIN.

And this: I have a cherry '65 pan on a rotisserie in my garage right now, I just looked, the fork taper is nil at that point, you won't need to build an angled base of wood after all, just a 3/8" thick piece taped on to create some grip for the duckbill and to prevent denting your fork tubing.

Don't overthink this. And you will not need shims afterwards.
_________________
My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[Kafer_Mike]

[WrennMetallWerks]

Hey folks. So I’m sure there has been some really informative ideas here,

The reality is that the mount needs to be replaced by a professional or realigned by one. I do always support those that want to do repairs on there own and with some patients and the rite tools the average guy could do it. Getting it in the proper location we’ll be the biggest challenge , welding it is the easy part.

I’m blessed to say I do this every day for a living for a coupe decades now and I can say with confidence that the correct answer to this issue is to repair it properly…

It’s a drag for sure. Sorry to hear about your dilemma man.
_________________
⚒ Believe In The Power Of Positive Thinking ⚒

Purpose Over Pleasure 🕊

“Hard Werk ⚒ God First
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_aoE5aYSutY&si=mkZKPxd_41QA1kfs
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_NzUyyVexAE&feature=share
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=UI8yUrIWS7E&feature=share

[Busstom]

Tom, if you porta-power that thing back into place, just keep an eye on the fork tubing opposite the bracket, if it seems to yield before the bracket moves back home, just expand the footing of wood, or even better, place some 1/4" plate first, then some wood, to spread the load
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My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[OldSchoolVW's]

[Root_Werks]

The metal on the bracket doesn't look very thick. There'd be part of me that'd want to get the rear up enough to get a 2x4 wedged in there, see if you can get the bracket to move at all. Shoot, even a 1/4" would probably get you back into the "good enough" area.

As already stated, welding in a new bracket is the best/most correct solution.

But what would you be out to try it?
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