Can you tell if my clutch still looks alright?

[KingAir42]

I only have about a thousand miles on this new clutch I put in. For the first two to 300 mi it had a burning smell so obviously I think I messed up the clutch pedal tension. But it worked fine for all this time but recently it started making a noise if I engage the clutch all the way to the floor. It would be a squeaking sound and then a slight rumbling sound almost. The backed off the tension to get the proper quarter inch or so I forgot the number off hand, and it seemed to work okay but I still wasn't happy with it, I figured maybe the clips popped off the throw out bearing but they were still on and secure although they were a little bit loose but they were still definitely in position. I have 180 tooth flywheel it's still 6 volt, I'm thinking maybe I should just get a new clutch, flywheel, and throw up bearing and start over.

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[Costa66]

Looks good. Seeing the oil in the bell housing, is the disc oil soaked? If not, I'd run it. Spray it down with brake cleaner before reassembly.

- Josh

[KingAir42]

I don't think it's oil soaked it seems pretty dry. The transmission seal seems pretty dry to me. I wasn't what your pressure plate to use that's the one that I got from westburg West, the one with the fingers. They have other types of pressure plates that don't have the fingers that pulled up for six volts. I'm just not sure if I did any damage as the clutch smell burning as it was what I thought was breaking in. But when I read more about it people say that a new clutch really should not stink.
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[zerotofifty]

I see a lot of debris on the throw out bearing. what is that? Is it shedding grease? If in doubt replace it. The labor to replace this part is large compared to its part price, since you are in there now, do it. Noise when clutch is depressed can be sign of worn throw out bearing.

Besure to lubricate the input shaft splines with Moly. dry powder type moly is very good for this, unlike wet grease, it wont hold onto friction material from the disc. Dont use graphite use moly. graphite cant take the pressure, save the graphite powder for key locks.

Be darn sure the two clips that retain the bearing are secured correctly. the type with the loop is preferred over the simple U shaped one. squeeze them tight with pliers. if the clip fails out of place, you can end up ruining the clutch, be stranded. Do it right, do it once.

[KingAir42]

I may have misunderstood my Bentley manual, but there is a section about applying a light coat of moly graph grease to the bearing to avoid squeaking. So that's what was left of the light coating I applied the last time. I somehow messed up that part, didn't I? Also, what's the difference between pressure plates, the one with the fingers like I have, and the other type?
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[scrivyscriv]

My understanding on the pressure plate differences is that the newer diaphragm type plates are easier on the foot. They both work the same and should interchange. The only thing to look out for is matching the correct throwout bearing to the pressure plate. (yours looks right)

A rumbling noise with clutch depressed is the throwout bearing warning you. The T/O shaft looks pretty well centered on the input shaft, so I doubt there is any misalignment causing the noise. The disc looks okay. How do the pressure plate and flywheel faces look? Smooth without chatter marks?

Personally speaking, the rigid disc and coil-type pressure plate will make a fairly harsh clutching experience. You might appreciate better a sprung disc and diaphragm pressure plate... it's just a matter of personal preference and driving style.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[KingAir42]

Yeah, they seem smooth to me. Someone else suggested that the throw-out bearing looked like it got too hot from being engaged from a shitty clutch adjustment. You mentioned the sound was warning me as well. Maybe I'll just get a new throw-out bearing and clean the clutch as suggested and use that Moly powder on the shaft.
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[zerotofifty]

[KingAir42]

[scrivyscriv]

You don't need anything special there. Regular moly kote spray like D321R if you have it, or molykote paste/grease is fine on the shaft splines.. even something like a graphite spray would work. The idea is a dry-ish lube that won't fling all around the bellhousing or clutch. The disc-to-shaft interface sees very little movement.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[KingAir42]

Ok, just ordered the Moly Kote and dry Moly. I’ll get it back together soon.
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A stitch in time saves nine

[Eric&Barb]

How worn are the arms of the operating shaft?? Are the retaining clips that hold the throw out bearing in place tight or loose when installed?? Which clips are you using, the simple "U" shape or the much better full loop version???

With the throw out bearing in situ is it even side to side in relation to the input shaft??
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[KingAir42]

I have the loop clips. They jiggled up and down when installed. Not sure how worn the arm is though. It looked even when installed to me.
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A stitch in time saves nine

[Eric&Barb]

[KingAir42]

I’ll order a new operating shaft then, hopefully that will cure the jiggly clips.
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A stitch in time saves nine

[Eric&Barb]

[wdfifteen]

What does the pilot bearing (or bushing) look like?

Is this arm bent or is it just a photographic anomoly?

[KingAir42]

I put in a new pilot bearing the last time I changed the clutch, it seems ok. I’ll have to double check it. The shaft doesn’t appear bent to me, maybe it’s the dab of grease that makes it appear bent.
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[WrennMetallWerks]

Hey there….

Is there a lot of scoring on the end of the input shaft ? Its hard to tell in the photos

Did I read you put in a new gland nut and bearing. Did you use enough lubrication on the needle bearings ?

The only reason I ask is in the photo it looks like the input shaft is chewed up. Those bearings going out can definitely cause some of the symptoms you’re describing.

As for the T/O bearing I have had them make noise when engaged all the way rite out the box. It sad but true. Hold it up to your ear and spin it with pressure and make sure it doesn’t make noise

Folks have given good advice on the T/O bearing shaft. Definitely make sure the bearing is centered to the input shaft.

Your bell housing is relatively clean with is a good thing.

To test your pressure plate you can put it on the ground and stand on it and it should hold you up… if you pushed down hard it should depress and feel smooth. The rest of that inspection is visual. Make sure that all the arms and springs are good. Check the contract surface to the disc. Then look to make sure the puck is centered and not favoring to one side. I think I read you replaced most of all this new. Unfortunately thats not always a guarantee that you will not have issues rite away of not far down the road … ( no pun intended hehe)

I would inspect the surfaces of the flywheel as well. You can use a die grinder and sanding disc to dress it if it needs it.

Trial and error can be present in this process unfortunately. Good luck man. You got this.
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[KingAir42]

Thanks Wrenn. I’ll go check through your suggestions.
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