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zoti
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posts: 2166
Location: Plano, TX USA
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 Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 5:31 pm Post subject: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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What's the best solution to re attach the fuel inlet to the carb and outlet from the pump?
I was replacing the fuel lines and the outlet from the pump popped out. I know I can secure it with a wire but I prefer a better solution.
Ignore the painted fuel pump. That is some magic from the previous owner and will get fixed.
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1962 Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
1988 Vanagon Westfalia |
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qweedqwag
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2011
Posts: 26
Location: rockwall
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 6:25 pm Post subject: Re: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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| If I was a betting man , I bet it was originally press fit. |
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zoti
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posts: 2166
Location: Plano, TX USA
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 6:45 pm Post subject: Re: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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| qweedqwag wrote: |
| If I was a betting man , I bet it was originally press fit. |
Yes. It was. But it's not anymore. I have found another thread talking about scuffing it a bit and then using sleeve retainer, which I have, to hold it in place.
Going to completely take the pump off and clean it then do that.
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glutamodo 
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26630
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 6:55 pm Post subject: Re: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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You don't want to scuff it, per say, but "knurl" it, cut into to so it has more raised surfaces for grip.
I'm going to quote myself from a thread for many years ago talking about this same kind of pipe up at the carburetor:
| glutamodo wrote: |
You can rework it so it should be able to fit tightly again. Get a sharp file, then roll/press the brass tube up against it to "knurl" the brass somewhat. Even the sharp edges of a new pliers can do this. What you want is to give it more "bite" when it's tapped in, the displaced metal sticks up a little higher. Then press the pipe back in. Once in, you can peen the metal down around it - or even a center punch in a couple of places.
I'm in a place where I can do some work, and have some carb parts handy, so I just went and did this on one so I could take some photos.
I just dug up a core-top half of a 28PICT carb tob. Put a piece of cloth on the brass pipe to protect it a little, and used a channel locks to twist&pull to remove. It was in fairly well, but once I "cracked" it loose it came right out. Then I polished it up with some steel wool:
Then I put the cloth back on it, used the channellocks to press it against a sharp file for the knurl effect. More like a pinch hard, let off, rotate a little, pinch again, let off, rotate, etc. Til it looked like this:
Then I went to press it back into the carb. Just my little peen job had made it tight enough that trying to pinch it in thwere with the Channellocks was being difficult. So I used my vice:
This was so tight now that I'd probably not have worried about it popping out. This is what it looked like now:
However, to be complete, I did go and tap the carb body around the pipe a little with a ball peen hammer, then three taps with a center punch:
This one is now in there very tight. I tried my channellock on it again like I did when I first removed it. All it wanted to do was slip, and without a cloth on it, just peel brass off the pipe.
Hope that helps.
-Andy |
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Andy T.
"What is Glutamodo, Horror of Toyko, besides total, fiendish, quality-a-you brain!" |
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zoti
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posts: 2166
Location: Plano, TX USA
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 10:52 pm Post subject: Re: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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Got it.
| glutamodo wrote: |
You don't want to scuff it, per say, but "knurl" it, cut into to so it has more raised surfaces for grip.
I'm going to quote myself from a thread for many years ago talking about this same kind of pipe up at the carburetor:
| glutamodo wrote: |
You can rework it so it should be able to fit tightly again. Get a sharp file, then roll/press the brass tube up against it to "knurl" the brass somewhat. Even the sharp edges of a new pliers can do this. What you want is to give it more "bite" when it's tapped in, the displaced metal sticks up a little higher. Then press the pipe back in. Once in, you can peen the metal down around it - or even a center punch in a couple of places.
I'm in a place where I can do some work, and have some carb parts handy, so I just went and did this on one so I could take some photos.
I just dug up a core-top half of a 28PICT carb tob. Put a piece of cloth on the brass pipe to protect it a little, and used a channel locks to twist&pull to remove. It was in fairly well, but once I "cracked" it loose it came right out. Then I polished it up with some steel wool:
Then I put the cloth back on it, used the channellocks to press it against a sharp file for the knurl effect. More like a pinch hard, let off, rotate a little, pinch again, let off, rotate, etc. Til it looked like this:
Then I went to press it back into the carb. Just my little peen job had made it tight enough that trying to pinch it in thwere with the Channellocks was being difficult. So I used my vice:
This was so tight now that I'd probably not have worried about it popping out. This is what it looked like now:
However, to be complete, I did go and tap the carb body around the pipe a little with a ball peen hammer, then three taps with a center punch:
This one is now in there very tight. I tried my channellock on it again like I did when I first removed it. All it wanted to do was slip, and without a cloth on it, just peel brass off the pipe.
Hope that helps.
-Andy |
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zerotofifty
Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2003
Posts: 4187
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 11:29 pm Post subject: Re: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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Id not want to beat up the pump or carb housing to hold the tube.
A safety wire works well to hold the tube in place. That is pretty much fool proof,
Some swear by Red Locktite.
Others drill and tape for a threaded fitting.
For me safety wire is the choice. Easy, works, and no need to beat up the housing.
That said, before I used safety wire I did have one car catch fire do to the fuel pipe falling out of the pump. I save the car with use of a fire extinguisher, just barely. used the entire contents of the extinguisher to stop the fire.
Many a car has been burnt because of these tubes falling out.
There are several threads about the safety wire fix, the threaded fitting fix.
Knurling and beating up the housing is not assurance that the tube wont fall out again as the housing will again expand, just as it did the first time.
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2025 2:12 pm Post subject: Re: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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Other thing to keep in mind from now on, is to either cut the fuel line along its length to remove it or push against the end of the fuel line with a flat object like a screw driver. The stock German fuel line is designed to grip harder (the more you pull on the hose the more the hose grips) on the fuel pump/carb brass pipes like the old fashioned Chinese finger cuffs.
Also does not hurt to put a few center punch marks on the carb and fuel pump bodies around the pipes. That will tighten up the holes a tad to give that much more press fit.
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zoti
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posts: 2166
Location: Plano, TX USA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2025 5:40 pm Post subject: Re: Re attaching fuel inlet / outlet. |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
Other thing to keep in mind from now on, is to either cut the fuel line along its length to remove it or push against the end of the fuel line with a flat object like a screw driver. The stock German fuel line is designed to grip harder (the more you pull on the hose the more the hose grips) on the fuel pump/carb brass pipes like the old fashioned Chinese finger cuffs.
Also does not hurt to put a few center punch marks on the carb and fuel pump bodies around the pipes. That will tighten up the holes a tad to give that much more press fit. |
I ordered a brass line and correct fuel line from WW and attached them but this happened when I wanted to shorten the flex part of the line. I will fix it correctly.
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