Charging indicator

[splittie65]

I have an alternator conversion on my '65 splitty that has been on there some time.

When I start the engine up, the charging light stays red until I rev the engine quite high. Once I've done this, it goes out, and it stays out even at low revs.

As I intend to do a large road trip soon, I wondered if this is something I should worry about (and if so how to sort it) or will it be fine.

I should add the belt is taught and not slipping.

[Slip356]

Not a problem, with an alternator vs generator they all do that.

[busdaddy]

Some take a few more revs to initiate a charge, not really any thing to worry about. If it bugs you try a higher wattage bulb in the speedo, but that might bring on new problems so best you just live with it as is. Does a volt meter say the battery is charging once the light goes out?
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[Eric&Barb]

Which crankshaft pulley are you running? Too small can cause charging problems and increase engine operating temp so as to reduce longevity.

Posting an image of the engine might help.
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[splittie65]

As requested... a photo of the engine. Also a photo of the van, just because

Since this photo was taken i've added a split charger which shows upto max 15V when the engine is revved

[Eric&Barb]

Definitely a larger stock crankshaft pulley. Does it measure 7" across?

You really need to get the stock air cleaner, it will be better for the engine.

Missing the heat riser tins with their seals, need those to keep the engine cooler.

Hopefully you have all the tins underneath and up front of the shroud if that is a dog house unit.
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[Clara]

[splittie65]

I re-checked the voltage I'm getting and it is 14.5V at tick over to 16.5V when revved up.

This on both the van battery and the leisure battery. They drop to 13.7V when the engine is turned off.

[busdaddy]

16.5 is way too high, it should be 14.5 at speed. It's going to cook your batteries and will be hard on bulbs and electronics as is.
Might want to try another volt meter first before freaking out though.
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[splittie65]

I thought as much... just tested again with a different meter with the same results!

I'm doing a 400 mile trip in 3 weeks and a 2500 mile trip around France in June, so I have a a replacement alternator being delivered. Don't want to take risks.

I have fitted one with the engine still in place... but a long time ago in a different split (15 years ago?).

I know the principles, but if anyone has helpful tips, I'm happy to listen!

[busdaddy]

Remove the carb, then reach around and remove the fan nut, leave the fan in the shroud and remove the alternator. Hopefully the lower two fasteners attching the backing plate to the shroud are hex headed, if they are screws it's challenging due to the manifold being in the way, not impossible, but it'll test your patience.
Careful you don't drop any washers or shims, and do a dry run and shim the fan outside of the bus, then take the fan back off and put it in the shroud before offering up the alternator and backing plate assembly.
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[splittie65]

[busdaddy]

[splittie65]

[busdaddy]

Before raising a shroud check for a thermostat below, and the throttle tube too.

Raising a shroud in the bus is not only a pain, it also makes it really hard to get everything lined up nicely later, it's easier to just drop the engine.
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[splittie65]

[busdaddy]

The nut on the RH top bolt is common, the the bolt it's on should have a D haped head and not turn as you remove the nut. The LH upper is also standard on dual port cases, remove the bolt from the front (transmission) side on that one, the nut is pressed into the case and stays with it.

If your bus has frame horns there's no need to support anything, the transmission stays in place while you pull the engine back and lower it.
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[Eric&Barb]

Would look for the upper LH side bolt to see if it is even there and which clutch arm is in use. Curved original arm does not allow for easy bolt access, later straight arm does, but that changes the angle the clutch cable comes out the end of bowden tube and can then cause premature cable wear there. As in replace clutch cable as often as every 6,000 miles, instead of 50,000+.

With engine out it is a lot easier or even doable at all to check many things to make your VW more reliable. This can even result with increased engine longevity.

From that front of shroud image you are missing the thermostatic flaps, so pickup a set from the classifieds ASAP.
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[Eric&Barb]

Would also check the rear bowden tube mount. It could be the cast part of the transaxle one for curved arm or bolt on type for straight arm.
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[splittie65]

I've undone the bottom engine mounts... although with one the whole stud has come out.

I'm now searching for the hidden top mount. Difficult to see and take photos.

Is it where the red arrow is... and is it missing? Is it a round allen bolt?