Learn to build a motor 25 Sep

[auslander]

The time has finally come to build my motor, all the parts have been gathered and are waiting to be put together. I figured this would be a good opportunity to share with some people who have thought about building a motor or unsure if they could. On Saturday 25 Sep 04 1:00 in Long Beach I will be assembling a 1914. I will be building the motor from the ground up. If you would like to come out pm me, this is going to be the second motor i have built. It would be a cool tech session if some newbie and expierienced engine builders came out. Im also looking for some one to show how to do the gear assembly on the crank, (i dont have those tools) i could have it done for $10 but no one would gain from going that route. So here is the specs on the motor Im building:
69 DPR crank
94 cylinders and pistons
web 110 284º 256º 0,435" 11,05 108º/ web lifters
straight cut steel/steel gears
Scat 1.25 ratio rockers/ chromolly pushrods
040 heads with 35x32 /50.6cc, dual springs, 3 angle valve job, manley valves, dual springs done by AJ Simms
12.5 flywheel
DPR stock rods
kennedy stage 2 pressure plate, daiken heavy duty disc
All motor parts were balanced
Im looking to run somwher between 8.7-9.5 compression ratio
The case was machined at Foreign Unlimited in LongBeach, cut for 94's and tapped for fullflow
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Zombie
Wandering...Have you found what your looking for?

66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
71 Cat-Look Beetle
64 Old Skool Baja
74 "Swamp" Thing

!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci

[EvilBus]

Hot Oil Bath (not my favorite but it keeps it lubed)
propane torch
electric hot plate

All three methods heat the gear sufficiently to expand it enough to slip on.

Make sure your key is installed properly (use a new key). And always, always remember to put the bearing on first and in the right direction.
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- JHC de Tejas -

[Muffler Mike]

Doing the crank gears are actually quite easy when it comes right down to it.
Or maybe its just me. Any ways.
First off, once you have established you are using the right bearings and your crank has spun in a closed case and you are sure you will use them. Determine the direction the bearing goes on. (dowel pin placement of the number 3 bearing) with the bearing on, I use a hot plate to set the cam gear on. (you might want to give it an inspection for burrs or any thing like that since they are new) once on my hot plate for maybe 5 or so minutes (one beers worth) I grab it with a pair of channel locks lightly, and with the crank sitting on end, (setting it in the end of the flywheel works nice for this) I see if I can drop the gear onto the crank. Some times, it will not just slide on and I set it on the hot plate some more until I can.
The space should just slide on. (don’t burn your self on the hot gear that’s there) then the brass gear doesn’t take much at all to heat up and get over the crank.
Then the hardest part is having a pair of snap ring pliers that will open up the snap ring enough to get in the groove.
In the past, I have used a propane torch to heat up the gears moving the flame rapidly over the gear. I have even tried to use the toaster oven, but was intercepted by the wife on that one.
You will also need to watch for the bevel on the inside edge of one side. This goes toward the main part of the crank to clear the radius that is at that particular step.
If you screw up, you will need some sort of gear puller to get it or them back off. The speciallized pullers are nice to have. The down side to these that I have found is if the radius on the bearing journal is big, the bearing might not slide back enough and might sustain some damage as you try and knock the puller in place. But usually that’s during disassembly and you will not use those bearings again. If I knew I had a big radius and was going to take on and off a gear with new bearings, I might try and bevel the bearing a little.
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Muffler Mike
http://MufflerMike.com

[auslander]

About the crank, I've also heard of people putting their crank in the freezer. How long do they leave it in their for? What kind of assembly lube do you recommend for the motor. Your thoughts on the crank going in the freezer.
_________________
Zombie
Wandering...Have you found what your looking for?

66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
71 Cat-Look Beetle
64 Old Skool Baja
74 "Swamp" Thing

!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci

[EvilBus]

I've never had the need to freeze the crank, but the goal is to cause a reduction in the crank size (heat expands, cold contracts) so if you heat the gear it expands, the cold would do the opposite and give you purportedly more clearance, haven't tried it.

I use Sta-Lube Moly Assembly Lube. As for the previous post it's always a good idea to check the bearing clearances first, get a set of plastigauge to check!

Check your manual but I recall it was like .0015-.0040? *don't take that as fact, check it first*
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- JHC de Tejas -

[Muffler Mike]

the freezer concept is right.
but it would probably take a little while to soak in to get it cold enough.
the only real problem i would see is who's freezer to use and when pulled out, it will most definitly attract moisture and you would need to protect agains that. probably a little over kill.
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Muffler Mike
http://MufflerMike.com

[EvilBus]

Yeah, nothing like rust to spoil a freshly polished and turned crank.
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- JHC de Tejas -

[ROADKILL]

the magic number for the crank gear is 350 degrees if I remember right.
LOL

[auslander]

I was talking with my old mechanic that had put on the same cam gear on my other crank about a year ago for the 1641 i built, and he told me that in his 30+ years as a vw mechanic that cam gear was the hardest one he ever put onto a crank I bought it from chirco in Az and called them to get some info on this, they said its made by dynagear
_________________
Zombie
Wandering...Have you found what your looking for?

66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
71 Cat-Look Beetle
64 Old Skool Baja
74 "Swamp" Thing

!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci

[Muffler Mike]

like said above, those aftermarket gears can be machined a little on the tight side.

last two dynagears that i played with had just about 0 lash on one side and grow to .003"-.004" on the other.
when you install your new stuff, just make sure it doesnt bind up.
_________________
Muffler Mike
http://MufflerMike.com

[auslander]

What should i do about the gear??? And if anything who can do it.
_________________
Zombie
Wandering...Have you found what your looking for?

66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
71 Cat-Look Beetle
64 Old Skool Baja
74 "Swamp" Thing

!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci

[Bottomend]

I had my machinist do it for me at his shop for $5.00. He heated the gears then tapped them on with a pipe fitted down over the end of the crank. It looked pretty simple. The hydrolic press was used for that operation. It took 30 seconds.

[auslander]

My local shop said they would do the whole gear assembly for $10, but i would rather have someone step up and show people how to do it so they could learn from having it done in front of them. Any takers???
_________________
Zombie
Wandering...Have you found what your looking for?

66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
71 Cat-Look Beetle
64 Old Skool Baja
74 "Swamp" Thing

!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci

[Muffler Mike]

you can try and contact t his guy, he lives in long beach. you have probably even seen him.
[email protected] (john troxell)
he might be able or willing to do it.
probably do it for beer or a few bucks, especially since he took out his air conditioner pump in his tow vehicle coming home from Sacramento this weekend.

my plate is extreamly full right now. i have a lot of stuff to finish before the next baby comes and i have a motor build going on right now too.
But if worse comes to worse and you cant find any one to help. give me a jingle and you will have to come my way with your parts and we can work something out. Im out in Lawndale. down the 91 toward the beach.
_________________
Muffler Mike
http://MufflerMike.com

[schwartzbugg]

there is a tank manufacturer near me, and to assemble the arms that hold the gears for the tracks, they freeze(liquid nitrogen) the pin, and heat(cherry red) the arm, and when they put it together, WHAMMO- instant seizure. There is no keyway, no knurling, no anything but smooth metal. And when it is done, it holds the weight of 1 tank. Pretty impressive, I think. And WD 40 will eliminate moisture. May be more than you need, but cool facts, nonetheless.
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BDAZBUG- 1967 VW

[auslander]

Thanks for the info, I know John I will get with him this week, Im doing it in LongBeach because his shop is about a mile from the house so i can run down there if we encounter any problems
_________________
Zombie
Wandering...Have you found what your looking for?

66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
71 Cat-Look Beetle
64 Old Skool Baja
74 "Swamp" Thing

!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci

[Paul72-SB]

[auslander]

I've decided against the freezer idea, not worth the consequences.
_________________
Zombie
Wandering...Have you found what your looking for?

66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
71 Cat-Look Beetle
64 Old Skool Baja
74 "Swamp" Thing

!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci

[Cambo]

Hi,

I'm building my 1st engine. Today I glued the case. Tomarrow I will be recieving 1641 barrels & pistons, 8 pass oil cooler, oil temp sensor and guage from Bap. (No sales tax)

I was a bit worried when I glued the case.
The "John Muir" said to apply the glue sparingly. And to be sure not to get lubriplate or oil on the seem of the case.

I had gotten some oil on the seem when lubing the gears, but cleaned it off with acetone.

Then I used a thin layer or glue on one side of the case, but not the other.

They mated and I secured them with a few 10mm nuts in the center.

But when I tipped the case on its bottom, all that oil I used to lubricate the gears came out through where the oil sump screen is.

I then added the rest of the case nuts, But I didn't torque them.

It's sitting overnight.

Should I redo the procedure for gluing the case?

P.S. I had my crank gears done for $7 @ Metric Enterprises, Ventura, Ca.
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Thanks,
Cambo

[Muffler Mike]

i might be a bit anal about motor building some times. but my tip of the day.
do a complete motor build/mock up, head to head. make sure every thing fits, rotates, works, there is nothing that can mess you up down the road. then tare every thing down. clean every thing, then do a final assembly with all your sealers, glues, etc.
_________________
Muffler Mike
http://MufflerMike.com