1991 Vanagon A/C Retrofit -- converting to R134

[sanfran94107]

I just received a quote from a shop for $130 to do this. Does this sound right? I seem to recall reading that this type of job would cost much, much more.....

[DanJReed]

That sounds like a basic refill and new fittings, not major parts. I may only work for a short time if there is a leak in the system, or it may stress a near-failing part.

I say go for it. I did it to my 91 Nissan, still blows cold since last year.
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-Dan
(87 Westy Vanagon, 98 Jetta GLS 2.0, 95 Golf Sport)

[weinerwagen]

I do 134 retros on all my Volksies when the R12 goes away. My 88 Carat Vanagon with dual A/C is a 134 retro. Works great.

You can basically do it yourself. Its good to evac the system and get it all down to a negative. You can put several cans in using over the counter material and try your luck. Worse case??? Big loud bang I would guess!

Check this website out. I've been happy with his products

http://www.autorefrigerants.com. While this tid bit will twist the tails of the Environmentalists, who are losing sleep over R-12, (which in my humble opinion is bull), the stuff this guy sells did wonders on a Vanagon that was R-12 equipped but low on freon. Sure made that system COLD COLD COLD

R-134 doesnt get as cold, and takes a bit longer to cool, but unless you live in Hell, you wont notice the big difference, except in costs. Like 3.65 a can at Walmart vs $50.00 to $80 bucks a can for R-12.....

Oh yeah, add two kinds of ester oil in the middle of the re-fill.
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Retired attorney--Tort King.

[sanfran94107]

Are there any sites with photographic instructions on how to evacuate R12? I really have no clue how this would be done but it sounds easy

[DanJReed]

Well,

As an A/C service tech, you really need a recovery system. They are pricy, but if your system is empty - all you need to do is get a cheap vacuum pump and suck it down to 30" Hg, and make sure it holds for an hour or so - then you can fill it back up.

I like to use Ester based oils in retrofits, it tends to be "kinder" to the system, and does not absorb moisture like PAG based oils.

Also, only fill the system with %80 of the R-134a vs 100% of R-12. R-134a runs at higher pressures than R-12 and this allows for expansion.

My A/C system is "off" right now - it works, but I just don't use it - so I pulled off the belt. The power loss, and extra heat and stress on my tired old wasserboxer is not worth me being cool. I'll get a hot hotter with a blown engine on the side of the road.
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-Dan
(87 Westy Vanagon, 98 Jetta GLS 2.0, 95 Golf Sport)

[weinerwagen]

I agree that a system should be drawn down to -. But most of us don't have that sort of equipment. I did buy a unit from the AC shop for 150 bucks that draws the system down pretty fast, but no recovery. (sorry tree huggers).

I personally have had pretty good luck with 134. Not as good as the old R-12, but the costs...

My 88 Carat kicks cold air pretty good with 134. I can feel it cycling slightly on the highway. But when it is 100 degrees plus I sure like having some cold air making my ride a bit more enjoyable, as if driving this Carat isn't fun enough!
_________________
Retired attorney--Tort King.

[DanJReed]

I have used one of the little compressed air vacuum pumps that you see for $40. Works well, but you need a large air source to run them (30 gal or better air tank/compressor). Again, no recovery.

I now use a nice Blue Point vaccum pump I got at a flea-market for $10.
_________________
-Dan
(87 Westy Vanagon, 98 Jetta GLS 2.0, 95 Golf Sport)

[zero]

A VW tech that I know strongly recommends a kit sold by Walmart. He used it on his brothers and for less than 50 dollars, he said it works amazing. Just another suggestion but this is what he recommends..

[weinerwagen]

I know that air powered vacuum pump, you are right, needs a good air power source....

I bought a unit for 139.99 at a local A/C parts store which is a name brand, 1/3 hp, sucked the system dry (recovery was airborne!!!!!!!!)

Walmart does have a good retro setup, priced right. 134 works or it wont work, you do loose 134 faster than 12 simply because it escapes thru the hoses at a faster rate. I'm told the "stuff" in it is smaller than 12.
_________________
Retired attorney--Tort King.

[BavarianWrench]

Go to the dump, appliance store junk yard, drive up and down the alleys, find an old refridgerator and pull the vacume pump for free get a compression fitting and suck away.

[weinerwagen]

Bavarian you say what???? Now you got my attention, explain the vacuum pump thing from an old refer...since I happen to have one in the side yard waiting to go to the junk yard... [/quote]
_________________
Retired attorney--Tort King.

[BavarianWrench]

You pull the compressor right out of the fridge, usually leave it right on its own mount with plug. Go to the hardware store buy a compression fitting for the copper pipe that is the suction side adapt the fitting to your gauge set and run the other end of the pump to atmosphere. Your pulling serious vaccume fast and cheap. Sorry I took so long to post. Brass compression fittings and adapters are also available at Napa, just don't tell them what you need it for, they'll get confused and tell you it doesn't work. Good Luck

[supplicationjam]

Why convert to R134 at all??? You can buy environmentally friendly Freeze 12 which is R12 compatible at about the same price as R134,it's a little cooler than R134 and a whole lot cheaper than converting.

[supplicationjam]

Well it certainly was a comparable price at my auto parts store. I only needed two cans in my system. Before I charged my system my ac was only cooling the air about 15 degrees and after two cans it was pulling the temp down about 35 degrees. Freeze 12 is non flammable......butane is flammable so I don't really know where you got that information.

[pete000]

I retrofitted my bus and it worked pretty good. I did replace the receiver drier with a new one and tried to pump out all the old oil and stuff first. Unfortunitly it only lasted about a month beforl leaking out. I just keep topping it up. Too lazy to track down the leak.