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Heat, and what I should expect.
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kevinrocks
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:26 pm    Post subject: Heat, and what I should expect. Reply with quote

I thought i'd ask the pro's Wink I've got a 73' sb, the motor is gonna be a 1641. For the winter I plan on running my stock heater stuff w/ stock muffler. Now my real question is, are these cars as horrible about getting some heat in the cab as everyone says? I don't expect on-demand heat from any car in the winter, I always let my cars warm up 10-15 minutes, possibly more depending on the conditions. Would I need to wait even longer on the beetle? There is an upfront heater kit made for these also?, so I've heard. How much do these run, wouldn't mind investing in one, if I will need it.

Thanks for the help.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drove my 74 Standard Beetle daily for 27 years. When i had stock heater boxes I had plenty of heat.

You need to check the car out and make sure the heater channels are solid and have no holes. That the heater boxes are in good condition and operating correctly with flaps that fully open and close. That the front trunk seal is there and keeps the cold air out.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are gas heaters available... some advertised in the classfieds on here I'm sure.

The stock system with a stock muffler produces the most heat.zMake sure all the connections are good and tight on the hoses from the fan and throught the preheaters on the stock muffler.

There are also aftermarket "blower assist" kits to keep the heat flowing when you are driving slow or stopped in traffic. If your in real cold climate you might find them useful and they may help with the defogging.
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kevinrocks
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
I drove my 74 Standard Beetle daily for 27 years. When i had stock heater boxes I had plenty of heat.

You need to check the car out and make sure the heater channels are solid and have no holes. That the heater boxes are in good condition and operating correctly with flaps that fully open and close. That the front trunk seal is there and keeps the cold air out.


The heater channels are in great shape. The heater boxes will be fixed or replaced, they're showing some age. The front clip needs some work, so I'll be getting a new seal for that since it's missing. Very Happy
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kevinrocks
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
There are gas heaters available... some advertised in the classfieds on here I'm sure.

The stock system with a stock muffler produces the most heat.zMake sure all the connections are good and tight on the hoses from the fan and throught the preheaters on the stock muffler.

There are also aftermarket "blower assist" kits to keep the heat flowing when you are driving slow or stopped in traffic. If your in real cold climate you might find them useful and they may help with the defogging.


I'm not really in one of the coldest climates. I'm from Louisville, KY. The winters here can get cold, but not as cold as some places. Sounds like I should be fine without any other blowers or extra gas heaters. If not I can always buy them.
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KennyD.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last winter I was driving on the highway with my heat on. It was about 35 degrees outside, and it got so hot inside my car I had to roll down my windows, it was getting hard to breath!
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TeamSpatula
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

x-girlfriend of mine had a '69 autostick, and the stock heat on it was great. A warm VW needs 2 things - good heat coming in, and holes plugged/covered so that cold air isn't rushing in as well...the latter is the problem in my DC...it kicks out plenty of heat, but all the holes in the floor, rockers, etc let in so much cold air that the net gain isn't much.
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Shane
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know about your car, but if I crack the window just a little in my 69, it gets MUCH hotter in the car. If your car has good seals around windows, doors and the trunk, that will definitely help, but there is such a thing as being too airtight. About 50 bucks invested in new weather stripping will save you hours of misery on the road, freezing your butt off, but it can bite you too.

Make sure your hoses and vents are in good shape and not leaking cold air in or hot air out. Check your fan shroud for fit and holes. Check the heater hoses as well. Go for the cheapest things first.
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VW Tazz
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2004 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a mess of hoses under the hood and dash that need to be inspected as well as the airbox. This has plastic hoses that get brittle over time.
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Herman's Dad
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2004 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shane wrote:
Don't know about your car, but if I crack the window just a little in my 69, it gets MUCH hotter in the car. If your car has good seals around windows, doors and the trunk, that will definitely help, but there is such a thing as being too airtight. About 50 bucks invested in new weather stripping will save you hours of misery on the road, freezing your butt off, but it can bite you too.

Make sure your hoses and vents are in good shape and not leaking cold air in or hot air out. Check your fan shroud for fit and holes. Check the heater hoses as well. Go for the cheapest things first.


Totally agree ... if your car is truly airtight (to where it's tough to close the doors with the windows shut) you'll be much better off. And, replacing the trunk seal is a definite ... you can get a LOT of drafts through the dashboard from air coming through a leaky trunk seal.

If I have the heater on in Herman, I HAVE to have the vent wings open or I'll cook!

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