A Simple question about my car stalling.

BlueComb78

I'm having problems with my thing idling. It starts off fine and idles fine at first but after you push the gas and release it, it dies. I'm sure its something simple like flooding or something but i can't exactly find out how to fix it. I've spent hours fixing other engine problems so maybe i'm just tired. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Could the solenoid have anything to do with it?(what is a freakin solenoid) The spark plugs aren't fouled so thats not it.

Anywho, thanks for reading... bye

Big Luni · Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 8:58 am Post subject:

I had the same problem- can you still drive it? Mine would die at stop signs, but eventually it didn't start any more at all. The main problem was my idle cutoff solenoid, which you can get from Cip1.com for $17 (VWC-056-129-412). To see if that's the problem, turn your ignition on so the electrics are on, but don't start the motor. Pull the wire off the solenoid (the cylinder going into the lower left side ot the carb) and touch it back to its terminal. If you hear a mechanical "click," it's working OK. If all you hear is the electric spark, then it needs to be replaced.

If your solenoid is OK, it could be the carb, distributor, automatic choke, or any number of things, but I think the solenoid is a good place to start...

BlueComb78 · Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 3:54 pm Post subject:

I can still drive it but its getting really bad now. Thanks for telling me how to test the valve. i tested it and it worked so i know that thats not the problem.

Whenever its about to die and i rev it up, to keep it alive, it blows out black exhaust so is it a possibility that its flooding? I've been trying to search around but i cannot find the fuel mixture screw. It's a Solex 30-PICT 2 carburator and i can't find the diagram for that carburator in any of my service manuals.

Anywho, thanks for helping me. I'll keep it posted if i get it fixed and what exactly was the problem.
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Don't you just hate it when you go to work on something and when you're done with it, you have extra parts left over?

Miguel Arroyo · Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 4:50 pm Post subject:

Have you checked the choke operation?

Buckly · Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 3:45 pm Post subject:

The black smoke does make it sound like too much gas. The choke is a good place to start. After warm up check the diapharm at the top of the carb throat, very easy to see. If Its wide open your good. If its closed or partly closed it may need adjusting, They all adjust the same so just read the choke adjusting part in the book and that will work on your carb.
The float valve may be stuck in the bowl, a little tougher of a fix, and warrants a carb rebuild. In my experiance some rebuilds dont work. some of the small apertures just get to gummed up to clean out. Which means a new carb. So you decide, rebuild and through the dice or, New carb and pay the money. A mechanic will want about half the price of a new carb to rebuild a your carb. Also you want to get the main throttle shaft rebushed. I highly recommend a new carb. Bocar is the name brand of a fairly cheap Brazilan made carb. Not the best carb but good for the price. I also recommend you go to a 34 pict 3 carb, to get a little more fuel and air to the engine. The price on the Bocar can vary from $250 to about 175 with shipping. Mike Basso has a good price on them and specializes In Thing parts and repair. He has a web site with his # on it. "thingsunlimited.net" I think. Oh wait I have his # right in front of me.
Mike Basso, Things Unlimited 518-630-0173
I hope I didn't ramble on for too long, good luck.
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Cool runnins,
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Bucky

kubelmann · Samba Member Joined: April 13, 2003 Posts: 3266

Buckly has good advise. The Thing motor came with a PICT 34 -3 carb and it will provide much better power than the carb you are running. Mike at Things Unlimited sells them and is an honest as reputable guy plus he is a Thing owner enthusiast. His web page is www.thingsunlimited.net

He has all the stuff you will need to keep your Thing going.

I suspect that you have either a closed choke or your ignition timing/dwell (point adjustment is off .016") The chock is the prime suspect here. K-mann

berniedd1 · Samba Member Joined: October 20, 2003 Posts: 155

Many times you can dissolve gum and varnish residue left by gasoline by soaking your disassembled carb in laquer thinner for a few minutes and then use compressed air to blow out the passages clean. Caution: laquer thinner is very flammable - do it outdoors.

Buckly · Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:58 pm Post subject:

I've tried many things to dissolve the gum/tar including thinner. will it hurt anything to soak it in thinner overnight? The compressed air make a world of difference.
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Cool runnins,
_______________________
Bucky

berniedd1 · Samba Member Joined: October 20, 2003 Posts: 155

No, not paint thinner which is similar to kerosene. Lacquer thinner is used for lacquer paints. If you can find thinner for acrylic paints, I think it's an even better solvent.

edgy · Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 6:10 pm Post subject:

I use acetone but be careful it has a low flash point. If you let it soak over night it will probably evaporate leaving the goo you are trying to get rid of. Use a volitile solvent and rinse it right away.
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62 Single Cab (Work Truck)
63 Bungartz Tractor VW powered


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