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Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:54 am

You must have a few rust buckets on your hands as well Evil! :D I should ask the samba to rename this forum ,'the rust and dent forum'. :lol:

I'm using Arm and Hammer powdered laundry detergent.

I'm using it to neutralize the massive flash rusting from Muriatic acid though.

The issue I have with Muriatic acid is it's not much better than vinegar, it adds as much rust as it takes off unless you neutralize it somehow and don't let it dry out. You can't leave it unattended ,let it dry and no one wants to watch acid work on rust for very long. :lol:

I'm trying to supersede sandblasting if I have the time to wait for the acid to work as effectively as possible.

Thu Mar 22, 2018 9:29 am

theKbStockpiler wrote: You must have a few rust buckets on your hands as well... Nope, just one Ghia with less rust than most. I am mainly treating the hardware with the vinegar dip. The bigger parts I an blasting to A) clean them and B) profile the metal for better MasterSeries adhesion.

theKbStockpiler wrote: The issue I have with Muriatic acid is it's not much better than vinegar, it adds as much rust as it takes off unless you neutralize it somehow and don't let it dry out. I have found that even if I just rinse the parts I dipped in vinegar and leave then sitting out, they don't tend to develope too much flash rust.

Thanks for the detergent info. The Eastwood After Blast Cleans the de-rusted parts, converts any microscopic rust, and leaves behind a Zinc coating. It claims to promote paint adhesion; that is yet to be determined.

Cheers,
Emil

Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:40 am

I have used muriatic acid and dont like it for a couple reasons. Unlike phos acid I cant add water to dilute and pour it out on the ground. It isn't as safe as vinegar or phos acid. It smells and burns skin. If it had major benefits over phos or vinegar it may be worth it....but my exploits dont show that. Im sticking with phos and vinegar at this point. I have never used any laundry detergent, good call. Im leaving the muriatic acid in the pool. :)

Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:51 pm

Right now I'm mixing my own acid blend and don't see any benefits for more than %30 muriatic acid. Usually I cut phosphoric acid with a little vinager and or muriatic acid which seems to work the best. When it stops being effective I wash it off ,let it dry and go at it again.

Sat Jul 14, 2018 12:39 am

c21darrel wrote: I have used muriatic acid and dont like it for a couple reasons. Unlike phos acid I cant add water to dilute and pour it out on the ground...
Add baking soda to it until it stops fizzing.. then it's safe to pour out on the ground.

Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:30 am

After reading this whole thread all I can say is that the very best rust preventive coating, bar none, is hot dip galvanizing. Nothing else compares.

I rebuilt a 1990 F150 4x4 and I disassembled and blasted the complete frame and had it hot dipped for $250 about 8 years ago. Then I shot it with epoxy and black urethane, it will last pretty much forever.

Not sure if that would be possible on a bug pan without it warping though.. the hot dip tank is about 800F.

Thu May 02, 2019 11:39 am

I was browsing through the helpful posts about rust proofing. Has anyone used the sealant where the guy cuts the boat in half and reseals it with the product? I have used just the rattle can product for my wheel wells of my 71 Bay Window. Seems to work fine...so far. I also used the 'fat mat' for the entire interior panels, when we completed the ground up. It really cut the road noise a bunch.

On another note, does anyone know where I can get a reman steering gear box for my 71 T2 Bay Window? The PO installed a TRW which is adjusted out to its max. I want 'power steering' back. Thank you in advance. Cheers.

Mon May 06, 2019 8:44 am

fubar1962 wrote: I was browsing through the helpful posts about rust proofing. Has anyone used the sealant where the guy cuts the boat in half and reseals it with the product? I have used just the rattle can product for my wheel wells of my 71 Bay Window. Seems to work fine...so far. I also used the 'fat mat' for the entire interior panels, when we completed the ground up. It really cut the road noise a bunch.

On another note, does anyone know where I can get a reman steering gear box for my 71 T2 Bay Window? The PO installed a TRW which is adjusted out to its max. I want 'power steering' back. Thank you in advance. Cheers.

Place a WTB ad for a steering box in the Bay Window 'parts for sale' Classifieds. :idea:

Thu Jun 27, 2019 8:55 pm

Okay, I have read this whole thread, and now I’m more unsure of what to use than when I started. My situation is that I will be blasting the underside and wheel wells of my 64 while it’s upside down. My first question is should I use POR-15? The lower 8+ inches of my body had to be replaced, I will be using seam sealer, but I’m very paranoid about rust coming back. I’m using PPG paint 3 part system, epoxy primer, epoxy base coat, and urethane clear coat. My question is should I use this paint system and then put POR-15 over it, bare metal with POR-15 over it, or use the paint system I’m using and put a different type of undercoating on it (rust bullet, master series, etc)? Truck bed liner stuff? Also, what is a good seam sealer to use? I’m in Michigan and live on a gravel road so it needs to hold up to gravel and salt well. Any suggestions appreciated, thanks for the help!

Sun Feb 23, 2020 7:20 pm

question,

so i want to use master series for my chassis but should i just use the silver or should i top coat it? anyone w/ experience?

thanks

Sun Feb 23, 2020 8:44 pm

Chickensoup wrote: question,

so i want to use master series for my chassis but should i just use the silver or should i top coat it? anyone w/ experience?

thanks

I used it on interior and exterior rust. Even where exposed to the weather in the rain gutters it lasted several years (and Colorado weather as a daily!) until I sold my bus. So if you topcoat, it's because you don't like the silver look. It didn't need a topcoat in my experience.

Mon Feb 24, 2020 5:04 am

Ok cool, I happen to like the silver. But will it work well if it take my pan down to bare metal, then prep it with something like phosphoric acid?

Thanks

Mon Feb 24, 2020 6:09 am

I wire wheeled first, but yeah. Cat piss away!

Sun Mar 01, 2020 12:00 pm

If you put the silver MS primer on new metal, I would either rough it up with a 220 grit sandpaper, or use a good metal prep(phosphoric acid) to etch the metal for good adhesion and to get any oils off. When using the MS silver primer by itself and no topcoat, we recommend 3 coats. It doesnt need a topcoat. UV wont affect it. Ive got pieces outside on a daily basis for over 14 years with no bad affects . To topcoat do it within a couple of days. If not then scuff everything down and then topcoat . Done testing and the MS silver by itself easily outlasts epoxy primers and etch primers as far as rusting. Chuck