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Tue Aug 08, 2006 5:41 pm

A bit cheaper

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/valco.htm

Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:54 am

there is a difference between the standard hylomar and the aero grade.

Rob

Wed Aug 09, 2006 12:26 pm

helowrench wrote: there is a difference between the standard hylomar and the aero grade.

Actually, there are several Hylomars. The Medium Blue is the one most people know from the good olde days. The Racing Blue is thinner and was the type marketed by Permatex for a while as "HPF". The aircraft grades are something slightly different again. Look at the Hylomar site for more complete details.

And to complicate things still further, there is hylomar RTV which hardens.

Has anyone tried the Brush-in-can variety of Hylomar? Seems like that would be great for things like valve cover gaskets.

George

Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:07 pm

Permatex aviation grade. Sentimental favorite...

Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:08 pm

Loctite here

Wed Sep 27, 2006 11:59 pm

Dirko! Damn it! I have built the last two with Dirko. Not a drop. 10,000 mile road trip a week after building my motor, not a drop from Idaho to Michigan to Cali to Seattle and to this day! Easy to use, inexpensive, super quality! I will never use another product as long as I live. It is amazing....

Thu Oct 19, 2006 10:29 am

Locktite 515 on any face to face sealing such as case halves and flanges...and I use Leaklock on all pipe threads...NO LEAKS!!!

Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:23 am

Will the Curil K2 work for the cam plug as well?

Is there any reason to use more than one sealant during assembly?

Also, what do you guys use for threads? I used high tack on the head studs where they go into the case when I restored my 40Hp. I also see people use sealant under the washers for hte case nuts - is this over kill or necessary?

Putting my stroker together next week and have the K2 for the job - just want to make sure I don't need anything else.

Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:41 am

gblakeney wrote: Will the Curil K2 work for the cam plug as well?

Yes....I've been using it for 20 years. Works great.

Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:57 pm

Here's another one - moderators delete if off base - sealing a Berg oil sump to the case bottom - Curil K2 as well? With or without gasket?

Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:43 pm

I finally used the Curil K2 this weekend and it was great. Went on easy, no stringy mess like the Gaskacinch I used on my 40.

Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:08 pm

I had to do a clean up on a motor that had Yamabond, and let me tell you what a PITA to get it all clean before the new crank and cam. Use the permetex.

Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:09 pm

I found the Loctite 518 a real PITA too. Probably not as bad as the Yamabond, but sucked nonetheless.

Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:53 pm

I've been having FUN removing old case sealant for my Type IV 1.8 build. Whatever this stuff is, it should be used to hold space shuttles together! :shock: It looks like 3H, probably just really old stuff!
I do know that it's going back together with Curil K2 after all the recommendations here & from the local machine shop.

Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:32 pm

K2 was VERY good to work with. None of that stringy crap. I seem to remember the Gaskacinch I used on my 40Hp was stringy and a mess.

Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:52 pm

Yamabond instructions said to apply to surface and wait one minute before assembly. I was concerned with work time getting case halves together so i did a test batch on another piece of metal. Stuff spread thin dried way to fast so I did not use. Just my .02 DG

Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:20 pm

K2 does not seem to cure fast at all - in fact the little bit that oozed out around the cam plug is still pliable like lip balm. Case has been closed for over a week.

Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:37 pm

Hylomar blue. Built an engine with it last year, and without running it, had to tear it down completely. The old Hylomar came off reasonably well from the case halves using a scotch pad and brake cleaner spray. New Hylomar needs to be spread very thin, most likely like the other sealants. Try to get the sealant near the outer edges of the flanges, so that when you bolt the case together and torque it, the sealant is not squeezed downwards from the top (like a stalctite) or comes up from the bottom. I assembled the engine 2 weeks ago, installed and ran it for about 200 miles so far, and not a drop leaked. "Yet".

The fella above who took his 10,000 mile trip on the Dirko-sealed engine sounds like a strong argument for that material.

Fri Dec 08, 2006 7:03 pm

I like the Curil T, and the Dirko Hi-Temp Silicone. There's a samba classified ad for the Curil T from Jims Custom VW's if anyone is still looking for some. Just do a search for Curil. This is where I've gotten my supply from. They also carry the Dirko Silicon as well.

Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:10 pm

Glenn wrote: Gaskacinch

Same here...for years! No leaks!