TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sat Jun 29, 2013 9:12 pm

I agree - looks like this thing needs to be rebushed. How much would something like this cost do you suppose?

Sat Jun 29, 2013 10:46 pm

It is scratched up pretty bad, shame some guy pulled the bar though with the set screw sticking out or who knows what......... but it is the clearance that matters.

Sun Jun 30, 2013 5:29 am

garrett.fell wrote: I agree - looks like this thing needs to be rebushed. How much would something like this cost do you suppose?

That is a little hard to answer cause it's going to vary from shop to shop but I'd say somewhere between $100-$200.

Well worth it once it's done IMO. If you don't want to sink any more money into it let me know what you'd take for it. :D

Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:08 am

what are the limitations of the Tru-line? and are there T-4 cutters for them? Thanks- have enjoyed the post.

edit- found a t-4 for sale on flea bay for 2500$ only cut 4 engines- so I read that they (the blocks) almost never need a line bore-

Any one done a lot of T-4?

Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:54 am

Are the bronze bushings in this thing supposed to be in two-pieces?

One sleeve makes more sense to me.....

Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:47 am

Yes, on the pulley end there are two like in your pic.

Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:01 am

Just checking - the outside diameter of the bushing appears to be 1-5/8. I was going to order this....

1-5/8 OD - 1-3/8 ID. It's 4.5 inches long - so enough material for all of the bushings. I can cut them to length in my lathe - but I'll need to find a machine shop to install, ream/hone to final size.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BUNTING-BEARINGS-Sleeve-Bearing-13T962?BaseItem=13T962

Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:07 am

Looks like I can get it for about 1/2 price ($14) via Amazon!

Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:38 am

A 1-piece bushing is best and longer. The longer the end bushing is the less movement so the bar will track more accurately.

Here is mine completely accurized- by me. The end bushing is full length.
I also made a front feed plate accurate to 1/10,000 inch on center -same goes for end bushing - and I cut the tapers smaller so it will hold the bushing in place w/ minimal pressure. So I do not have to hammer the crap out of it to install.

The longer end bushing also allows you to make an undercut by the taper so the bar will NOT bind when it is installed. They are all DEDICATED bushing to its own bar so the accuracy is maintained.

Sat May 31, 2014 3:34 pm

Made a tool to adjust my cutters , thought maybe you guys would like to see it ...

Sun Jun 01, 2014 5:25 am

Here are mine gauges...

These are the first ones I made... dedicated to the TruLine bars.

These are the later ones.. w/ Starrett heads

Sun Jun 01, 2014 7:54 am

nice , but why 2 sizes ?? mine will do from 50 mm all the way up to the whatever cut I want ... ????

Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:58 am

Two sizes.... 1 for the #4 bearing only and 1 for the other 3 mains.

The heads are set for the 0.010 increments. So first cut at 0.010" exactly on the dial....w/ 0.002" bearing crush built-in into the measurement.

This makes setup of the bits easily done for each increasing size. So each micrometer are dedicated. Otherwise w/ just one mic to do all, you gotta write down the actual stickout for each bit.

I like the 2 separate ones as the thimbles are already set to read in 0.010" increments. no fuss.

Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:58 am

yeah I guess that's good since you do allot of cases , I don't do that many , what I did is set mine so when the dial is zero'd its exactly 50mm and I go from there ... but one thing for sure , this truline works good ... what I like is how cool the feed works and how it was made .. genious !! feeds so smooth. I think better than my lathe . lol

Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:01 am

The TruLine is KING!

No other tool made for the VW was more well-thought out and functioned true to old-school machine work.

Just awesome.

Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:20 am

nsracing wrote: The TruLine is KING!

No other tool made for the VW was more well-thought out and functioned true to old-school machine work.

Just awesome.
I know , I was telling my friends about it , I took it apart like I do everything I buy and was amazed at how simple and well thought out it was , and works like a charm , perfect cuts ...

Wed May 27, 2015 6:18 pm

Nick how confident are you that your tool can duplicate an exact cutter setting ( radius ) on every boring bar with no recalibration ? I ask because I ran into this problem when I designed my first tool. Mike McCarthy

Sat May 30, 2015 7:24 pm

If the bar is different diameter, then that will be your main issue. Also, I put a window in the tool so you can visualize the attitude of the bit when you put the micrometer tip to it. You have to be right on the apex /cutting edge...and not the slope.

The TruLine is 1.50" Diameter and 0.010" under. I size the bodies so they are made for the bar. The radius under the bodies are sized for the bar. I machine the bodies to exact size of the bar.

My micrometers are very accurate and can be re-zeroed to whatever bearing crush you want. You can just move the hash-marks to where you need it to match the timble. But you have to confirm the cut w/ a dialbore gauge and adjust the zero on the mic tool accordingly.

What kind of tool did you make? Got pic?

Sat May 30, 2015 11:21 pm

I wish someone would make a good cadd drawing of a Trueline bar...and post it on SAMBA...

Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:07 pm

I promise that if I decide not to manufacture them I will post pictures . I am on my 3rd prototype right now and it is accurate to within .0001" ( measures .00000" ) and repeats measurements. My partner John Toomey and I have had problems like everyone else with parts that were not machined or manufactured properly and are not satisfied with being just close enough to run it. We want to know as much as possible that what we did was the very best we were capable of doing. Mike McCarthy