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LAGrunthaner Fri Sep 17, 2021 3:18 am

BarryL, are FTE and ATE parts always all German?

BarryL wrote: So you guys open and inspect the FTE ones? I trusted them and no whiff of leaks anywhere. But I've always trusted FTE and ATE.

The front slaves were pairs on the left and right but different Chinese makes.
One side fronts were fairly good quality and could have been left in...maybe. The other side front pair actually had chips of sharp metal from taps as well as porous casting so bad that any honing was a joke. I did open them and cleaned them and greased them with brake lube hoping the rubber would somehow seal when pressurized.

BarryL Fri Sep 17, 2021 6:08 pm

LAGrunthaner wrote: BarryL, are FTE and ATE parts always all German?

BarryL wrote: So you guys open and inspect the FTE ones? I trusted them and no whiff of leaks anywhere. But I've always trusted FTE and ATE.

The front slaves were pairs on the left and right but different Chinese makes.
One side fronts were fairly good quality and could have been left in...maybe. The other side front pair actually had chips of sharp metal from taps as well as porous casting so bad that any honing was a joke. I did open them and cleaned them and greased them with brake lube hoping the rubber would somehow seal when pressurized.

Linda,
Maybe others can help answer you better but as far as I have experience the two companies are German. The home company is ultimately responsible for the product even if it was assembled outside Germany. I've gotten FTE slaves that were marked Italy and Austria on the box. I think I even got Spain once. Almost always they say Germany. The quality is tip top notch in all regards.

ToolBox Fri Sep 17, 2021 6:41 pm

LAGrunthaner wrote: BarryL, are FTE and ATE parts always all German?

Not always. They might manufacture the part in one of their facilities or have it built to spec by a sub contractor. They also have facilities all over the world and don't get me started on counterfit parts.

Lind Fri Sep 24, 2021 7:28 am

ToolBox wrote: LAGrunthaner wrote: BarryL, are FTE and ATE parts always all German? Not always. They might manufacture the part in one of their facilities or have it built to spec by a sub contractor. They also have facilities all over the world and don't get me started on counterfit parts. "made in Germany" means nothing. For a part to be "made in Germany", all they have to do is put it in a box in Germany that says "made in Germany". If any part of the process happens in Germany, then they can say "made in Germany", even if what happened in Germany was not part of the manufacturing process. That is all totally legal by their laws.

Years ago, I got a bunch of NOS singleport heads that were in VW-Audi boxes with stickers that said "made in Germany". The heads had Hecho en Mexico cast into them, and there was white paint over top of that casting which was flaking off. So Volkswagen tried to hide their origin by painting over the casting with paint which would end up in the oil if not cleaned off. These were '90s stock, and I seriously doubt that anything has improved since then.

BarryL Tue Sep 28, 2021 6:07 pm

DadaCheese wrote: Don't know why I didn't do this years ago!

Typically you have to take off the special lug-nut that keeps the spare on the bracket ('67 Westfalia Walk-through has the spare in the back left), then heave it out of the well so that you can turn it around and find the Valve Stem to check the pressure or add air.



How is this holding up? Does it leak down? What is the long threaded thing on the end? Is that for mounting it?

AS350driver Tue Sep 28, 2021 8:22 pm

Installed new Wolfsburg West tie rods, both, and new OG type shocks from
WW as well. Wow! Not even a difficult job. Rides much quieter and plusher in the front. Steering lighter and smoother Should have done it years ago.



LAGrunthaner Thu Sep 30, 2021 3:27 am

Interesting. I can't fit my spare in at all. I'll try this.

BarryL wrote: DadaCheese wrote: Don't know why I didn't do this years ago!

Typically you have to take off the special lug-nut that keeps the spare on the bracket ('67 Westfalia Walk-through has the spare in the back left), then heave it out of the well so that you can turn it around and find the Valve Stem to check the pressure or add air.



How is this holding up? Does it leak down? What is the long threaded thing on the end? Is that for mounting it?

BarryL Thu Sep 30, 2021 6:06 pm

After finishing my brakes and fresh front drums with front bearings the bus
had a wiggle in the steering / front suspension that was really pronounced
at 60 mph. Fearing the worst such as a bent drum I jacked up each side
alternately to check for axial and radial trueness. Nothing appeared out of
the ordinary but the left side tire/rim would settle on its own to the same
place down every time. I thought could it be the rim isnít on the drum true
or is the drum bent off center?

I was taught when you hear hooves look for horses not zebras so I tried the
simplest thing first; I removed the wheel weights and took it for a test
drive: taa-daa, hardly any wiggle. I realized the problem must be in the
balance of the wheel on that left side. I raised wheel off the ground and
noticed it still rotated on its own down. Primitive as it is I kept trying
different places and weights just setting the weights on the tire tread at
the top until the wheel wouldnít settle any more. I marked that spot and
pounded on the weights, one inside, one outside. Took the bus for another
test run and lo-and-behold it was absolutely perfect.



What is weird is the weights were almost 180 degrees from originally.

mandraks Thu Sep 30, 2021 8:57 pm

that IS weird. It does show, though, that getting your wheels and tires balanced is a good thing

cdennisg Thu Sep 30, 2021 9:19 pm

It would seem to me that a tire shop guy messed up the balance. 180 out is a pretty straight forward mistake.

BarryL Fri Oct 01, 2021 6:08 pm

The only thing different is different drums. The old weight location had been there for mega miles with zero problem.

Maybe I should rotate the rim on the drum a couple lugs just to prove out the drum being heavy on one side.

cdennisg Fri Oct 01, 2021 7:02 pm

BarryL wrote: The only thing different is different drums. The old weight location had been there for mega miles with zero problem.

Maybe I should rotate the rim on the drum a couple lugs just to prove out the drum being heavy on one side.

I wonder if you can have the drums balanced? A competent machine shop could probably do it, just like balancing a flywheel.

Tom Mohr Mon Oct 04, 2021 12:24 pm

Drove this press bumper, with small nuts (bus not driver) on leg of the road trip, from OKC to Gallup NM, the last 40 miles with some help.




mikelars Fri Oct 08, 2021 11:59 am

Man - tough learning curve for me on my bus engine. First I fixed a vacuum leak on the 1/2 side under the dual carb intake manifold that was causing all kinds of strange behavior and not allowing for carb adjustment. Used Remflex thick gasket material and it sealed up nicely. But changing an intake manifold gasket while the engine was in the bus was a total pain.

Then it ran ok for a week. But then, just when I had everything all adjusted i thought, i kept getting a rough idle and misfiring - so I looked at the valves - they were ok. I tinkered with the carb balancing about 3-4 times - finally determining that the idle mixture screw did nothing on cylinder 1. Then i noticed cylinder 1 didn't fire at all on idle (I did this by removing the #1 spark plug wire form the distributor while idling and it didn't change a thing!), but #1 would kick in once revving higher. So i googled it and found "clogged idle jet".

So it was super easy to take out the #1 idle jet and sure enough there was a tiny black sausage shaped thing poking out of the idle jet hole. God knows where that came from, but after cleaning it out, the #1 fired properly on idle.

It only took me 2 days and feeling totally frustrated - but there it was...

mikelars Fri Oct 08, 2021 7:05 pm

Ok - preparing for a new fuel line setup:

6an with a fancy filter



lowindO Sun Oct 10, 2021 6:26 am

mikelars wrote: Ok - preparing for a new fuel line setup:

6an with a fancy filter




Thatís sweet! What filter is that? Where do you get all that?

mikelars Tue Oct 12, 2021 2:29 pm

lowindO wrote: mikelars wrote: Ok - preparing for a new fuel line setup:

6an with a fancy filter




Thatís sweet! What filter is that? Where do you get all that?

Evil Energy. I have gotten a lot of AN fittings from them - I just get them on Amazon which is also where I got the filterÖ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CCM8QCF/ref=cm_sw_em_...&psc=1

I was torn between getting 4an lines or 6an - but what decided it was that the in line performance filters all have 6an as their smallest fitting. We will see - I am doing engine work starting Oct 25 or so, so this will be installed, new 92 thick walls, SuperStock ported 37/32 heads, 32 venturis with 1.45 main jets, new filler stand, new pulleys, oil leak fix and keeping the 1.25 ratio rockers. I am hoping for 125 to 130 HP with this 1968cc but we will see.

Riff Raff Tue Oct 12, 2021 6:43 pm

This is the far left end of the bell curve labelled "Exciting Things Done to Your Bus Today", but I haven't needed to do anything for the bus all season. It has performed flawlessly and has been really enjoyable to drive.
I've had this middle seat ashtray kicking around forever, so yesterday, installation made it to the top of the list of things to do.
Mediocre excuse for a backing board on the middle seat, but first rate ashtray!

I don't smoke (anything) so could not commission it.
I'll just have to trust it will function adequately if ever called upon.


pyrOman Wed Oct 13, 2021 11:01 am

The cross country trip totally killed the front coil overs and the rear KYBs. During the trip I got a set of stock shocks but that lowered the front to the point of the tires rubbing when bottoming out! So I finally got a full set and replaced them today. 8)









guatebus Sat Oct 23, 2021 3:33 pm

Got started on the transaxle swap yesterday. Proud that over the years I've made some smart choices (antiseize in the right places, straight clutch arm, shcs for upper left engine mount bolt), and obtained the right tools so all of this disassembly went off without a hitch. Next step: cleaning! Then reassembly.

But first: some rest! I'm a lot older than the last time I pulled the transmission and I hurt today.








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