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Forum Index -> Vanagon -> Coolant Bleeding the No Stress, No Mess Way! |
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View original topic: Coolant Bleeding the No Stress, No Mess Way! |
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Bassyaks |
Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:32 pm |
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Parked the Bong and raised the rear and opened the bleeder, it's the best way for me. Water flows down hill forcing the air out. |
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epowell |
Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:04 pm |
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Andrew A. Libby wrote:
It works GREAT! No more mess, no more stress.
Andrew
Wow, this looks like a brilliant invention - if should be on the market!
Andrew A. Libby wrote:
The distinct advantage to this as a system is that it raises the coolant level at the expansion tank above that at the bleeder and so allows gravity to push all of the air out of the radiator. No more high revving while trying to pour coolant into the expansion tank. No more geysers at the bleeder valve. No more dead cats in the neighborhood (at least from the coolant spills).
Thanks |
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epowell |
Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:31 pm |
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Andrew A. Libby wrote:
EDIT 7/17/14:
The Libby Bong 10-Step Program
1. With the engine off, turn heater to hot and open the rear heater valve.
2. Install the bong on the pressure tank and fill it almost full.
3. Open bleeder on radiator. If coolant comes out of bleeder then close the bleeder on the radiator and proceed to step 5. If coolant does not come out of the bleeder then close the bleeder and proceed to step 4.
4. Top off the level in bong and go back to step 3.
5. Start engine and rev it up for 2 seconds and then shut it off.
6. Top off bong and open bleeder on radiator. If coolant comes out of bleeder then close the bleeder on the radiator and proceed to step 7. If coolant does not come out of the bleeder then close the bleeder and proceed to step 4.
7. Drain bong and replace the cap on the pressure tank. Top off burp tank at license plate.
8. Drive the van around until it is warmed up a bit.
9. Stop somewhere that the passenger side is slightly higher than the driver's side and open the radiator bleeder. If coolant leaks out then proceed to step 10. If only air hisses out, then re-read the process and make sure you followed the instructions exactly. If you see that you did not follow the instructions exactly then start over at step 1. If you see you did follow all the instructions exactly then proceed to step 8.
10. Park the van and allow it to cool off. When cool, top of pressure tank and burp tank. Look at and top off the burp tank every day or so until the level when cold is consistent.
You may notice that the updated instructions do *not* include running the engine with bong in place until warm.
Andrew
Oh, reading the 10-step program I can see that this looks really simple and easy... I think I will make me up one of these things. . . looks like it could be made in about 15 min.. |
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thummmper |
Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:43 pm |
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andy
your photos arent here are they? I just had a vanagon moment--for air in the radiator--no need to park on a block up front if you remove the brass plug a top the radiator and fill with coolant until air is gone without opening up anything else---my radiator gurgled every time I shut her down, so its a thing of the past. there y'go todd |
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Bassyaks |
Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:19 pm |
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I just filled my Bostig conversion, The front bleeder bolt was 40 inches above the ground, I raised the rear so the filling tower was 46" above the ground, I slowly filled the tower and cracked the bleeder bolt until only fluid came out, once that happens lock the bolt down, start the engine and slowly fill again until it won't take any more coolant crack the bleeder just to make sure all of the air is gone. Cap it before it overflows. |
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rubbachicken |
Sun Nov 08, 2015 9:48 pm |
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a great idea for sure, my one leaks around the thread of the header tank, i can't seem to make it seal tightly enough on the thread, almost no mess
a very worth while tool for sure :) |
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PatrickandBaylee |
Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:59 pm |
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Andrew A. Libby wrote: Thanks, I'm quite proud of the design.
I thought of one more great use. You can stash it under the rear seat for use as a conversation piece in the event that authorities search your vehicle. :lol:
Andrew
The pictures are no longer available on your post. Can you put them up again or send them my way? Thanks
-Patrick |
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mikemtnbike |
Mon Dec 21, 2015 4:24 pm |
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See page 7, there's plenty of pics for reference there and Andrew A. answers this specific question there too. |
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PatrickandBaylee |
Mon Dec 21, 2015 10:14 pm |
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mikemtnbike wrote: See page 7, there's plenty of pics for reference there and Andrew A. answers this specific question there too.
Thanks |
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PatrickandBaylee |
Tue Dec 22, 2015 12:01 pm |
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Why use ABS vs PVC? |
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dobryan |
Tue Dec 22, 2015 12:33 pm |
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IMO anything will do. I use an old radiator hose.... |
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mikemtnbike |
Tue Dec 22, 2015 1:27 pm |
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Yeah I used pvc because I already owned it, much larger diameter tubing as well, again because I already owned it. So long as you don't use cardboard or something, it's the design, not the materials, that matter in this circumstance |
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bosstyn |
Sun Jan 17, 2016 9:12 pm |
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Great thread guys. Lots of great ideas that i imagine all work quite well.
I read as much as i could but i still had a question.
Im just finishing up a bilateral head replacement. I of course drained as much coolant as i could get out. Problem is, i want to run the van flat to begin with to make sure oil is spread evenly on her first start and run.
Should i fill the expansion tank to till it is near full, then attach a Libby bong to finish it off all while cold? (or should i attache the bong and fill directly from there from the start?) Then as it warms during the first run, top off the tank as necessary?
Id be able to raise the rear of the van and fill the system, but it would be done stone dead cold.
I also read to open the rear heater breather under the seat while filling. Im reading that as the topside bolt on the under seat heater. Won't that allow coolant to come out of the heater breather once the system fills?
Excited to try the bong. More excited to get this done correctly and completely. |
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Team WorldTour |
Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:57 am |
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The rear heater is a lever, not a bolt. There is no bleed valve on either heater. They are self bleeding (read: They push the air out into the cooling system).
The instructions Mr. Libby gave should be followed. Warm or cold. |
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dobryan |
Mon Jan 18, 2016 6:44 am |
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For me I fill as much as you can without the bong, then attach the bong and finish filling/bleeding. No need to open the heater core bleeders, just make sure the valves are open. The bong simulates raising the rear end since it gets the level of the fill above the radiator top bleed bolt. YMMV. |
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dhaavers |
Mon Jan 18, 2016 9:18 am |
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x2
Add what you can, hit the bong & run it flat, cold start...
8) |
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Team WorldTour |
Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:47 pm |
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dhaavers wrote: "Hit the bong & run it flat." 8)
BEST advice, no matter the job! |
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Merian |
Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:57 pm |
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dhaavers wrote: x2
Add what you can, hit the bong & run it flat, cold start...
8)
you're still talking about the van, right? |
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djkeev |
Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:35 pm |
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8 pages of "No mess, No stress" coolant bleeding...... :shock:
I've done it four times...... No mess, no stress...... Just point the nose downhill.... Done!
Dave |
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?Waldo? |
Mon Jan 18, 2016 3:26 pm |
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djkeev wrote: Just point the nose downhill.... Done!
Considering that I work on the van on level ground, that would require either jacking up the rear of the van considerably or towing it to a new location, either of which seem like an extreme amount of work(and consequently stress) compared to tightening the one hose clamp required for installing the 'bong'. |
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