TheSamba.com :: View topic - Coolant Bleeding the No Stress, No Mess Way!

Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:38 pm

funagon wrote: I've read your description twice. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I've achieved the same effect by jacking up the rear of the van until coolant reservoir is at least as high as the radiator bleed bolt.

You are not wrong. You achieved the same effect. I have actually done the same by parking nose down on a very steep driveway at my last house. Certainly it is much easier to attach the bleeder tube than it is to jack the rear of the van up in the air. Actually it's easier to attach the bleeder than it is to move the van to an inclined parking space even.

Terry, you're right. It is limited. But, it works well and is incredibly cheap and easy to make. I imagine I'll make a pressure tester at some point as well, when the need arises. For now, I'm happy with using this tool.

Andrew

Sun Jan 27, 2008 8:43 am

Quote: I used the Libby pipe method

I hereby dub this device, "The Libby Bong".

Mon Jan 28, 2008 11:13 am

Built mine this morning.

Grand total for the parts from the Home Depot: $7.34

Rare that I get out of HD for less than $50!!! :D

Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:48 pm

Sweet!!! I also have a question, I am glad I came by this, I to will build one it looks slick easy and yes a GREAT CONVERSATION PIECE. I was wondering, I replaced the head gasket and seals last summer, now I have water leaking out of the top two head stud on the left side. I suspected that I should have replace the heads as I saw pitting and it was not good. ( no money at the time) I was looking at the breakdown in the big green book, and saw nothing about samll o-rings etc.In the stud areas I reused the heads and nuts on both sides. I am now getting ready to replace the heads here in a couple of weeks. Am I missing something? :? please help

Sun Feb 03, 2008 10:19 pm

Today I used my Libby bong for the first time, and it definitely got the job done quickly and easily. My only issue was a little bit of coolant leakage at the seal between the bottom of the PlumbQwik connector and the mouth of the expansion tank, but perhaps I was trying to seal against the cap threads. Next time I'll pay more attention to where on the tank mouth I'm tightening the PlumbQwik hose clamp.

Mon Feb 04, 2008 7:05 am

<< I replaced the head gasket and seals last summer, now I have water leaking out of the top two head stud on the left side. I suspected that I should have replace the heads as I saw pitting and it was not good. ( no money at the time) I was looking at the breakdown in the big green book, and saw nothing about samll o-rings etc.In the stud areas I reused the heads and nuts on both sides.>>

Sounds like you forgot to lay a bead of the head gasket sealer on the studs.

You can re-use the head nuts with no problems, as long as you have the sealer on the threads of the studs where they meet the head.

Next round use GM engine assembly sealer pt. # 1234 6141, & you'll never have any engine leaks --anywhere.

Sat Mar 08, 2008 8:23 am

I saw this idea on the VanagonSubie list and thought I would pass it on as another idea. Like many others I've already got a pressure pot sitting around doing nothing along with an old tank cap.

This is a quote from Jeff who posted it:
"I just bled my 2.2 last week after replacing the radiator and had great
success using a $14.99 pesticide sprayer from the hardware store. I
adapted the hose to an old burp tank cap which I removed the valve from
by prying it out with a narrow flathead screw driver. Then I filled the
sprayer with coolant, hooked it to the burp tank (via old cap) and
pressurized the system. I didn't use much, but since I didn't have a
gauge in the system I can't be sure. I'm pretty sure it was way under
20lbs. Anyways, I filled this way and was able to easily bleed the
system solo. Best bleed job I've had yet. BTW, I filled the system
with the backend elevated as full as I could prior to going with the
pressure..."

Sat Mar 08, 2008 1:02 pm

What's interesting about this gadget is that it's almost identical to the brake pressurizing system I use when I bleed Winston's hydraulic system.

I imagine you need to open the radiator bleed screw before you start pressurizing... And that you'd want to get in as much as you can normally, first.

I'm wondering now about making a second hose for my brake system pressuirizer ending in the altered pressure tank cap and using the sprayer/bump for both uses--after a lot of careful cleaning, of course!

The 'Hookah' gadget that started this thread looks brilliant, and has been used with a lot of success--but I've already MADE the sprayer/pressurizer.

Best!

Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:30 am

So I gave this a try today and had a few questions, try and hang with me here.
I've known for months that I needed to bleed the air out of my coolant system. The other day I was driving and noticed the coolant temp was kind of high(3/4 up) and wondered if it could be because it needed to be bled(it was also the hottest day of the year so far).

I got everything together and started, trying to follow the directions to the T. The only thing is that there is no spot on my property where I can get my van level, so I parked nose down.
After I started the van, I noticed a lot of air bubbles coming into the tank and up through the bong-gadget. I proceeded to follow the directions, open radiator, rev, close, etc.
Well, most of the time, it seemed that instead of the level of coolant in the contraption going down, it kept going up. Is that normal? The final one or two times it went down a little. I wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong.

One other thing to note is that the coolant I got back out of the gadget was a lot darker than when it was put it, does that mean something is dirty?

I planne don taking a 300 mile trip tomorrow, but now I'm kind of iffy.

Thanks for the help.

Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:25 am

blackglasspirate wrote: most of the time, it seemed that instead of the level of coolant in the contraption going down, it kept going up. Is that normal?

One other thing to note is that the coolant I got back out of the gadget was a lot darker than when it was put it, does that mean something is dirty.

Two things come to mine. You don't need to this setup to bleed a system with a small amount of air. You better off just topping off the level in the tank when it's cold. jacking up the front end starting the van, running it at around 2K (heaters on high) then opening the bleeder, letting it bleed till you see bubbles coolant coming out. Then closing the bleeder. You should do this a few times till the air is all out.

You want to do this quickly so the van doesn't get hot. If it does and you have the top off the tank it will start to fill up. This sounds like what was happening.

The issue of the dirty coolant could be a type of leak that's allowing oil into the coolant? do you see oil mixed in it? If so, you should check the system for leaks. You shouldn't be bleeding the system that much if everything it working OK.

JFF

Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:56 pm

Thanks for the help.

I will try topping it off when cold and bleeding it. Right now I think I've gotten just about all the air out of it, but I think there still may be some.

As far as it being dirty, I'm not sure how it got like that but I'm pretty sure I don't have any leaks. I don't know if it's oil or not, but I guess that would make sense, since it seems slightly blacker. I'll try checking, but I haven't noticed any small puddles underneath or anything.

With the temp gauge going kind of high, should I risk a 300 mile trip? Or do you think it's too close to overheating or something?

Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:57 pm

As the coolant gets hotter it will expand and cause the level to rise.

Andrew

Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:47 pm

Another satisfied customer, worked like a charm.

Actually the principle is quite simple, a matter of hydraulic head. Get the level of the coolant above the bleeder on the radiator and that's it. A few taps on the gas and you're good. Just don't be lazy like me and not install the small tube. Siphoning the coolant out of the bong is a drag, tastes like crap. I got about 3.5 gallons out during the removal, so all seems good. I was a little low.

Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:55 am

But wait, I installed the smaller tube because I'm lazy. :lol:

Andrew

Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:49 pm

I am going to try the Libby Bong today. Wish me luck.

Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:56 pm

woggs1 wrote: I am going to try the Libby Bong today. Wish me luck.

I will do more than wish you luck.

My experience as a newb to the Libby Bong, was that I made the mistake of revving the engine with bong too full. It back splashed out the top a little. Otherwise worked like a hot damn. Just an FYI.

Good luck! :)

Neil.

Sun Mar 08, 2009 5:06 am

Vanagon Nut wrote: I made the mistake of revving the engine with bong too full.

Same thing happend to me exept the who bong poped off...I got an instant steam bath. :shock: Next time I use it Iwill try to midify the bong so that the top is supported/suspended somewaht to prevent it from falling over.

Another problem I had was I could not get a good seal between expansion tank and the bong. It kept weeping coolant there so I put a few wraps of electrical tap on the threads of the expansion tank to get a better seal. Works great now.

Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:19 am

I use the same parts Terry K is talking about.
Very simple to use and never had a issue with air in cooloing system.

dylan

Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:17 am

The pressure tester bleed set up is easy, fast, and fool proof--plus you have the pressure tester to locate any leaks in the system quick if they ever happen.

However, I'll have to say that I do like the looks of the garden sprayer set up too.

It's the same pressure bleed theory--will work plenty quick, and there is a couple of gallon reservour of anti freeze to work with---neat idea.

The only addition to this idea would be to put a pressure gauge of some sort on the tank--
I don't know that I'd be wanting to over pressurize the antique cooling system to 20-30 psi.

Ka-Bang.

I don't pump up any mre than 15 psi on the pressure tester to bleed the syetm.

I also don't think I'd be using the same sprayer for the brake pressure bleed & the antifreeze bleed in Winston .

I know , your going to clean it out good.

It's the one "Oops" that worries me--

Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:41 am

One could easily make a gravity fill device that connected to the nipple on the pressure cap. Just have a gallon jug that you could hang from the top of the door frame and run a hose from the bottom of the jug to the pressure cap nipple. Should work just fine and a valve in the line would cut out the mess when you disconnect it.