TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Dec 26, 2002 10:46 pm

What year did the stock 2.0 liter motor appear? I'm am searching for one and need alittle more info on which vehicals to search for. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

Fri Dec 27, 2002 7:21 am

Beetles had 2 liter engines?? (Pardon my ignorance...are we talking Type 4?)

Fri Dec 27, 2002 7:45 am

1968 was the first year of the type 4 engine in a vw
it was in a 411 and had 1680cc 66x90
1974 411 came with the 1.8
porshe 914 came with a 2.0 type 4
are you wanting a type 4 or type 1 ?

Fri Dec 27, 2002 10:03 am

The type 2 came with a 2 liter from late 75 and up. The engine codes to look for type 2 are ED GD GE.

Fri Dec 27, 2002 9:45 pm

Thanks for the info. I am building a ROAD RUNNER (manx clone) and want to "dependable" strong motor in it. I currently have a 1776cc and want to go bigger without compromizing the strengh of a 1600 case.

Sat Dec 28, 2002 6:52 pm

A 2.0 L type 4 from a bus would be a good starting point...have the cylinders bored out to 96mm, throw in a reconditioned counterweighted crank and reconditioned rods, new bearings, some KB pistons from European motorworks, and have the heads rebuilt with 41 X 34mm Valves and with a mile port job and you'll have a really happy camper. Stick to a hydraulic webcam and choose a mild cam like an 86, 86a, or 86b. Rimco or FAT can provide most of the work, if not all and then all you'll have to do is assemble. That's a good idea to just build up a little bulletproof type 4, not that I am biased or anything :-)

Take care,

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

Sat Dec 28, 2002 7:14 pm

My vote is to stay clear of the hydraulic cam. Not only are hydraulic lifters for sissies who don't like to get their pants dirty, but they have a tendency to complain at any sort of revs( floating), they like to leak down and not come back up, or they pump up and interfere with pistons, they have more overall inertia, and worst of all, they promote a neglectful attitude by dispensing with the Honorable Tradition Of Adjusting Your Valves Which Is A Great Opportunity To See What Else May Be Going On Under Your Car.
Colin

Sat Dec 28, 2002 9:03 pm

I agree, stay away from hydraulic cams, and if need be, convert to solid lifters. Hydraulics float horribly and when they stick you've got big issues (which happens alot more than you'd think). They were designed to be quiet and maintenace free, not with performnce in mind.

Sun Dec 29, 2002 8:20 am

Ok, I couldn't let this one go by :-)

A hydraulic cam is not a maintainence elimination device. That is the first problem most hydraulic cam users have- you should still adjust the valves at the minimum every 15k miles.

Secondly, you're not going to be able to turn 8,000 rpm with them. With heavy enough springs, you'll be redlining at 6,500-6,800 and floating will undoubtedly occur by 7,000 rpm.

Bleed down- yes, they do that when the car has been sitting a few weeks, but only takes a matter of seconds to quiet down.

The biggest problem with hydraulic lifters out there is the poor supply of quality ones-- the factory ones sucked...all of them suck except for johnson lifters, and even then you have to make sure that you don't receive imitations that will grenade or flake.

With all this in mind, it is possible to use hydraulics, when used in the right application and paired with the right components. Big Will @ COX.net asked about rebuilding his BUS motor and I recommended them for that reason-- he's not going to be turning 10,000 rpm ever. We're using hydraulics in our 2615cc type 4 and routinely run it at 6,800 rpm with 1.51 ratio rockers and double heavy duty springs w/o any float whatsoever. We do adjust the valves every 6k miles though. When speaking to most engine builders, they just tend to stay clear of hydraulics because of QC problems and all of the other issues that come along with them, but they are excellent if you give them a chance, adjust them correctly (bently has the wrong directions), and adjust them with some regularity.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

Sun Dec 29, 2002 7:06 pm

If you happen to trip over a free hydraulic Type 4 engine in your Christmas stocking, fine, be polite and say "thank-you." But I do not understand why anyone would seek out hydraulic lifters, they do nothing for performance, their maintenance-reducing reputation has no place here, and as you mentioned, Charles, quality control is dicey, and that is where I draw my line in the sand. It is a tragic waste of people's efforts and hopes and hard-earned money to watch their engine get trashed by trash, particularly trash that is masquerading as quality. imho
Colin
"Johnson-like Lifters
with Real Fruit Flavor. . ."

Sun Dec 29, 2002 9:23 pm

I just recently purchased a '78 Westy with a strong running motor and I want to keep it that way. I have read on the Boston Bob site his method of adjusting hydros in a new rebuild. My motor has about 40k on a rebuild. What would be the correct way to adjust my lifters since I dont see a rebuild (hopefully) in the near future to change to solid lifters? My understanding would be to adjust the lash to .006 and then turn them in another 1/4-1/2 turn to preload the lifters. Is this right?

Thanks
JC

Mon Dec 30, 2002 7:45 pm

I might be wrong. Adjust your valves to .006 and live with the clatter for a while to ensure that they fill correctly. Adjust valves 1/4-1/2 from zero lash point.
Colin