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Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:03 pm

Lag_Smurf wrote: Glenn wrote:
Clutch is a KEP Stage 12 with ACE Copperhead disc.

I am building little motor myself. Also using Steve Tims stage 2 heads and 48 IDA's with an FK8. I talk to Greg Tims and told him my combo and 9:1 C/R. The side he would go 8.5:1 over 9:1. Also plan on 1.4 rocker arms.

Would like to know more about this KEP Stage 12 sounds a little to much. LOL
I like KEP Stage 1. It is all about being 1st. lol

Stage 1... sorry.

Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:05 pm

Yea, i figured it to be a typo :D

Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:09 pm

W-130 camshaft- has a .460 lift x 308 duration Designed for use in a hot street / off-road comp engine.

I like the duration But the lift might be a little much for a gentle idle.

I was going to use the Fk-10 instead of the Fk-8 to get a little more duration/air flow.

Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:32 pm

I just switched from Engle W-120/1.25's to FK8/1.4's in my 2017 cc and am very happy with the results. Idles nicely at 800-900 rpm, smooth around town and then stand on it at the track on Friday nights!!

However, I'm running 9.5:1 CR and IDA's with the FK8...

Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:35 pm

neil68 wrote: I just switched from Engle W-120/1.25's to FK8/1.4's in my 2017 cc and am very happy with the results. Idles nicely at 800-900 rpm, smooth around town and then stand on it at the track on Friday nights!!

However, I'm running 9.5:1 CR and IDA's with the FK8...

I'm 9.3:1.

I love that it idles at 800 rpm.

Here's mine with 20 miles on it.

Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:03 pm

Sounds good Glenn, I bet that baby gets up and Gooooooooes!
I can't wait.

Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:34 pm

I honestly would rather idle at 1000-1200rpms. A flat tappet with stiff valve springs already gets enough load at the cam/lifter contact point. Slower the rpm will put more load on the lifter head.

A street motor IMO shouldn't really ever go beyond a k10. The great thing about a fk8 is that you cant go wrong. Its a smaller duration cam that will give you excellent driveability with excellent shift point recovery and it'll spin upto 7000rpms (torque and HP would drop well before that and somewhere probably in the 6000rpm range)

dbukrzy your going with a 3.88 r/p (stock gears) so you better stick with a k8 because your going to make your gears taller. You'll noticeably feel slower with a 3.88 r/p off the line compared to a 4.12 or 4.37 r/p.

Get some cb 1.4 rockers because they come with very nice tool steel cup adjusters.

Your engine combo will be a nice street engine with great power. The k8 will work with 8.5:1 c/r. Thing is you'd want to optimize a combo and that cam would probably be happier with more c/r. I ran a 2110 with 8.6:1 c/r for years and it had great throttle response. I shoulda ran higher c/r with higher octane to optimize that combo.

The stage2 heads will work great since it has airspeed. With your combo I'd go no bigger than a k8. If you had silicon bronze sleeved lifter bores in your case I'd say go with a fk44 or fk45. If your into the longevity / little maintenance deal I'd stick with a mild ramped k8. Regardless if you want to be thorough I'd sleeve your lifterbores so it eliminates the chances of wobbled lifter bores. silicon bronze sleeves will reduce the chances of wobbled lifter bores dramatically.

Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:51 pm

Sorry to hijack your post but what did your motor make Glenn? Sounds good
:roll:

Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:36 pm

Alan, thanks for the input. i wanted to use the 3.88 because the stock 4.37 gearbox that is in my car now with a 1776 w100 is useless in 1st gear. Also, when I'm cruising at highway speeds, the engine is revving too high. I figured the taller gearing would fix that problem.
I am sold on the fk8 and cb 1.4s
Thx

Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:20 pm

dubkrzy wrote: Alan, thanks for the input. i wanted to use the 3.88 because the stock 4.37 gearbox that is in my car now with a 1776 w100 is useless in 1st gear. Also, when I'm cruising at highway speeds, the engine is revving too high. I figured the taller gearing would fix that problem.
I am sold on the fk8 and cb 1.4s
Thx

K8 will be an all round great street cam. The heads you have will have great torque already. The CB rockers are the best bang for the buck. Scat rockers will have crappy cup adjusters that tend to pound the cup area. The amount of money spent the CB ones have excellent cup adjusters out of the package.

If your not gonna run slicks I'd strongly suggest getting a 4.12 r/p. It'll be more stronger than a 4.37 and still be absolutely fine on the freeway with stock gears. I was running a 4.12r/p with a close 1.14 (4th gear) with 24" tires keeping up with the main traffic buzzing at 3500rpms. If your not worried about 1/4 mile times the 3.88 will be the strongest in the type1 gearbox but if your not running slicks I'd definitely go with a 4.12 r/p for more grunt overall.

Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:04 pm

dubkrzy wrote: Actually, I have a brand new Engle w-130 in the box.
Would it be too much cam for my combo?

i used to 130 its a good one... pulls good, then at 3k rpm hold on.... all the wat to 6500 to 7000... real nice popcorn popping idle...

Fri Sep 21, 2007 6:14 pm

does anyone know the rpm range of an engle fk-8 cam, i really need to know the peak rpm.

Fri Sep 21, 2007 7:26 pm

costa wrote: does anyone know the rpm range of an engle fk-8 cam, i really need to know the peak rpm.

What heads do you have?? What size is the intake ports??

On a dyno you may top out before 6400rpms but you will think it pulls well past 7000rpms. It really depends on your heads and carbs

Fri Sep 21, 2007 8:20 pm

i have a dry sump 2332cc motor that i drive on the street (yes i really do drive it on the street) with cb performance competition eliminator head's with 48x40 valves ,k motion spring's with titanium retainer's, it has 9:5.1 compression, dual 48 ida weber's.

Fri Sep 21, 2007 8:41 pm

Costa are you sure that dry sump is working? I think you might be running a oil sump, and be mistaking??? :roll:

Fri Sep 21, 2007 8:57 pm

costa wrote: i have a dry sump 2332cc motor that i drive on the street (yes i really do drive it on the street) with cb performance competition eliminator head's with 48x40 valves ,k motion spring's with titanium retainer's, it has 9:5.1 compression, dual 48 ida weber's.

why would you put a little boy cam in a big boy engine??? :shock: Jk!!

I think your setup is not a good combo for the street. Your setup sounds more suitable for an fk89 with 12-15:1 on race gas.

How high do you intend to revv it??

I would at least take the k motion springs out and put in some "regular" chevy OD springs from Manton/CB.

I'd put a webcam 86C, CB2289 or an engle fk47 for a cam that will compliment the bigger valves for street use. You may get away with shifting at 7500 with those heavy valves. The k8 will still work but is very small for your setup IMO.

Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:33 pm

CJG wrote: Costa are you sure that dry sump is working? I think you might be running a oil sump, and be mistaking??? :roll:

i'm positive it's a dry sump system because i put it in myself and it work's way better than your standard full flow set up.my motor run's cooler too not only because of the oil cooler but because of the oil being stored in the oil tank (seperate of the the engine itself where it can collect and pick up more heat). it has more ground clearance being that it has no bolt on sump hanging from the bottom of my motor.

my dry sump system has these part's,12 quart capacity dry sump oil tank (i use 5-6 quart's),dry sump oil pump,72pass oil cooler with electric fan and an oil filter and steel braided lines.

Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:44 pm

Alan_U wrote: costa wrote: i have a dry sump 2332cc motor that i drive on the street (yes i really do drive it on the street) with cb performance competition eliminator head's with 48x40 valves ,k motion spring's with titanium retainer's, it has 9:5.1 compression, dual 48 ida weber's.

why would you put a little boy cam in a big boy engine??? :shock: Jk!!

I think your setup is not a good combo for the street. Your setup sounds more suitable for an fk89 with 12-15:1 on race gas.

How high do you intend to revv it??

I would at least take the k motion springs out and put in some "regular" chevy OD springs from Manton/CB.

I'd put a webcam 86C, CB2289 or an engle fk47 for a cam that will compliment the bigger valves for street use. You may get away with shifting at 7500 with those heavy valves. The k8 will still work but is very small for your setup IMO.

i picked the fk-8 because it work's well for me on the street and i plan on going turbo later (with lower compression).

i had an fk 89 before and it was way to killer on the street (yes i know my head's are to killer for the street also).

i planed on taking my 67 vert beetle to the drag strip also but the drag strip was closed here on Oahu Hawaii before i was completly done with my motor.

by the way i have pauter 1.5 roller rocker's.

Fri Sep 21, 2007 10:06 pm

If it works, keep on doing it. :lol: