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Sat Apr 26, 2025 7:08 am

Oil and Filter change at work, and swapping the Snow Tires out for the All Season Michelins on our Silver Mefro Rims. Spot of lube for the Slider and a new Oil Change Sticker for my memory on the Windshield... :wink:

Sat Apr 26, 2025 7:25 pm

Prepping for Utah next month, installed MansiSpeed oil pressure relocation gizmo on Bobby’s loaner engine. Little bit fiddly, but mounted up okay. However… at pressure, found leaks at both the (now relocated) OP switch & my gauge fitting, despite being <quite well> snugged. (Anyone have the torque spec for steel threads into a brass fitting?)

So…I guess tomorrow I’ll take it all apart and try again but with the addition of pipe dope. If only there was some install information or recommendations provided…

PS: The fitting into the block between the pushrods snugged up leak-free, so that’s a plus… :roll:

- Dave

Sun Apr 27, 2025 7:29 am

Fidor wrote: Bobby wrote:
I like your approach. I've been toying with the idea of a multiple layered approach like yours, since the single layer i use is not as effective as I'd like. But, I have a hard time figuring out how to stow them. Ergonomics plague me. My 1 layer thick forward cabin reflectors fit adequately behind the drivers seat, folded properly.
-bobby

These were made primarily for when I am home, parked in the sun.

I haven't really had them long enough to consider any stowage issues, but so far, when driving, I only need to remove the front door, sliding door and back window shades. I just toss them in the back, or when i'm camping (I sleep in the lower), up in the tent.

The magnets are the real key though. They make the installation very easy - almost just slap them up and they stay. The only difference I would make to a single layer shade that you might roll up would be slightly stronger magnets to counter the curl. Magnets could be used on the ones marketed by GW and i think that would be an improvement over suction cups.

I used little magnets (2x7mm) with tyvik tape around the edges. They all fold easily and either store under the back cushion or on the top cushion.

Wed Apr 30, 2025 10:49 pm

Cleaned and repainted steel seat frames. Ordered some Volvo 240 seat heater kits from wagonmeister.com. Gonna be taking them back to the upholstery shop soon to put back together.

Thu May 01, 2025 2:04 pm

fxr wrote: Meh. Van was running poorly during our last road trip - especially when hot it'd 'stumble' under extra load (going up hills etc). Changed the plugs as the old ones had been in for 60,000 miles and had huge gaps - a great improvement but still not running right - very "vibey" at idle, shaking from side to side. Did compression test (psi):
1 95
2 160
3 105
4 170

So both the left-hand cylinders are low. :( I have a leak-down tester on its way - hopefully that'll help narrow down the problem, but I can see an engine strip-down in my future.

The other thing that happened on the trip was that the A/C idler pulley bearing disintegrated, so the pulley scaped a big hole in the timing belt cover. New pulley installed, but I need to source a new cover, AND it's about time to pre-emptively change out the timing belt and associated pulleys and pumps.

The leak-down test showed all four cylinders to be better than 10%, with no noise discernible. So now I'm going to check the valve timings on those two cylinders as well.

But first I have to change the timing belt, which means the cat and silencer and heat shield have to come off. Garrgh! It took near two hours the get the one recalcitrant bolt out of the heat shield - they'd used a rivet nut into a almost blind space. In the end I had to resort to a step drill and Dremel to get to it, then more Dremel to get it to give way:

Eventually with all that removed I could really see the damage the A/C idler pulley had caused. Of course, that centre bit of the timing belt cover seems to be unobtanium. :(

Thu May 01, 2025 4:41 pm

fxr wrote: Of course, that centre bit of the timing belt cover seems to be unobtanium. :(

Should be relatively easy to grab a new timing belt cover.

Thu May 01, 2025 5:15 pm

R0ckyMtnCamper wrote: fxr wrote: Of course, that centre bit of the timing belt cover seems to be unobtanium. :(

Should be relatively easy to grab a new timing belt cover. Thanks for that - my searches only came up with the end camshaft cover pieces.

Fri May 02, 2025 5:39 am

dhaavers wrote: Prepping for Utah next month, installed MansiSpeed oil pressure relocation gizmo on Bobby’s loaner engine. Little bit fiddly, but mounted up okay. However… at pressure, found leaks at both the (now relocated) OP switch & my gauge fitting, despite being <quite well> snugged. (Anyone have the torque spec for steel threads into a brass fitting?)

So…I guess tomorrow I’ll take it all apart and try again but with the addition of pipe dope. If only there was some install information or recommendations provided…

PS: The fitting into the block between the pushrods snugged up leak-free, so that’s a plus… :roll:

- Dave Dave, just to clarify, did you originally install these fittings dry, or with Teflon Tape for sealing?

Fri May 02, 2025 6:50 am

jlrftype7 wrote: dhaavers wrote: Prepping for Utah next month, installed MansiSpeed oil pressure relocation gizmo on Bobby’s loaner engine. Little bit fiddly, but mounted up okay. However… at pressure, found leaks at both the (now relocated) OP switch & my gauge fitting, despite being <quite well> snugged. (Anyone have the torque spec for steel threads into a brass fitting?)

So…I guess tomorrow I’ll take it all apart and try again but with the addition of pipe dope. If only there was some install information or recommendations provided…

PS: The fitting into the block between the pushrods snugged up leak-free, so that’s a plus… :roll:

- Dave
Dave, just to clarify, did you originally install these fittings dry, or with Teflon Tape for sealing?
Originally, dry. As noted, the MS hose fittings sealed well (no leaks) both down between the pushrods and up top to the provided brass manifold, with no sealant of any kind. I s’pose a guy could use some just for insurance…I’ll prob’ly do that when I swap it over to my MS rebuild.

I was not so lucky at the other ports on the brass manifold where I attached the OG OP switch & my OP gauge. I had to add thread sealant to stop the leaks that were quite significant left dry. (Pic for reference)

To your question: NO! Teflon tape should not be used! …unless you ALSO rig up an electrical ground from the metal case of the OP switch to chassis ground…(!!!) :evil:

The sender typically grounds through the threads to the block, and the stainless braid inside the MS hose provides thie same function. Teflon tape is slick but tough, so it’s very likely to electrically isolate the threads which would cause the switch to be nonfunctional.

Thread sealant has the property of squishing out of the way, allowing threads direct contact to provide the ground connection even while filling the gap where there is not direct contact. “Passes electrons even while it stops the leaks!”(TM)

FYI: On the advice of my local guru (DanHoug) I used Loktite 545 sealant…purple. LOVE the color… :wink:

- Dave

Fri May 02, 2025 11:19 am

Over the last month:
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced spark plug wires
Cleaned distributor cap & rotor
Drained differential, replaced differential pan gasket & refilled with fresh gear oil; replaced worn oil fill plug with new
Drained automatic, replaced filter & paper gasket, replaced rubber pan gasket (PITA!), refilled with Dexron III ATF -- old fluid still looked pretty good; the filter, however... :-&

Installed used properly functioning throttle body
Adjusted throttle and kickdown - if anyone can answer my question here, it would be greatly appreciated
Installed new, shortened throttle rod spring
Replaced breather tower
Drained & flushed cooling system (bunch of crap came out of it); refilled with Zerex G40 & bottle of Waterwetter (heater worked well before; now it's blowing out burning hot air! :o )
Installed new O-ring on coolant temperature gauge sender
Installed new O-ring on thermostat
Installed Victron DC-DC charger for new LiFePO4 auxiliary battery with fuses and circuit breaker
Installed circuit breaker on solar charge controller so I can shut it off when parked in the garage

^That's pretty mundane compared to what my dad accomplished:

:shock:

Sat May 03, 2025 5:03 pm

Installed new 'ears' on the shift selector. I had to rummage to find instructions having bought the kit from Vancafe - Gowesty to the rescue! Why Vancafe send out the kit without the (as it happens) very necessary instruction to file the metal innards to fit the rounded inner profile of the new ears escapes me!

Sat May 03, 2025 9:04 pm

We had the coolant expansion tank fail while away on a short trip. We dumped much of the coolant. We nursed it home while stopping to refill coolant and wait for the engine to cool. A RMW aluminum tank is on order.

Since we will be needing to bleed the coolant system, I took the opportunity to replace the heater coolant lines. I hade a 50 foot bulk box of Gates White Stripe 5/8" hose that worked well. I had been putting this off. Dealing with coolant is not my idea of a fun job.

I also installed the new GoWesty heater control valve. It's the DLX version and is very smooth.

Sun May 04, 2025 11:31 am

Swapped the large touch screen stereo for a retro unit from Blaupunkt

Sun May 04, 2025 8:42 pm

TomInAlaska wrote:

Nice! And compared to that old unit, looks…well, the Blaupunkt has already spoken!

Mon May 05, 2025 1:52 pm

I replaced the rear hydraulic struts for the the rear door. They were so bad it would take all 180 pounds of me to close it. NOW ONE HAND AND IT STOPS WHEREVER I STOP yipppeeeee. I also pulled the rear light so I could tap into power to power my new backup camera. (As soon as I can figure out which wire.) Supposedly brown but there are two browns spliced together then another brown. Schematics are Russian to me. :roll:

Mon May 05, 2025 2:30 pm

I am leaving for near Armstrong lake Nova Scotia May 28th. I am trying to get a bunch of small jobs done before I leave. One of them which I have questions on is I need to get power from my backup lights to my new backup camera. My question is I think I am supposed to tap into one of the brown wires BUT there are 2 browns connected to one inlet and another brown. So I have no idea which brown to tap into?????????????? I have a couple of pictures of the wires but of course cant figure out how to add them?[/img]

Mon May 05, 2025 3:09 pm

Alleycat1990 wrote: I think I am supposed to tap into one of the brown wires BUT there are 2 browns connected to one inlet and another brown. So I have no idea which brown to tap into?????????????? I have a couple of pictures of the wires but of course cant figure out how to add them?[/img]
In Vanagons, typically brown is ground. You're prolly looking for a power supply.

Mon May 05, 2025 6:02 pm

Yes I am looking for power from the backup lights.

Mon May 05, 2025 6:04 pm

Yes I am looking for power from the backup lights.

Mon May 05, 2025 9:10 pm

Alleycat1990 wrote: Yes I am looking for power from the backup lights.
(Sorry, my Bentley is not nearby, but…)

Look into the wiring under the rubber boot to (either) tail light assembly. Identify the two wires to the clear back up light bulb, and take note of the one that’s NOT brown. There’s your power, and it should turn on the camera automatically when you put the van in reverse (as long as your back up light switch is working). Prob’ly easier to tap into that wire farther “upstream”, it doesn’t need to connect directly at the bulb <or> even under the rubber boot.

Your power lead [EDIT]…“from” the camera prob’ly includes an inline fuse; it’s best to keep that where it’s easy to find, and label it for it’s size and purpose. Ground anywhere handy near where you mount the camera <or> display, it’s not necessary to connect to the same harness where you got power.

Now I gotta ask, what are you using to “tap” into your wiring? It sounds like you’re new to this, and there are definitely good, better and bad options.

Tag, you’re it…

- Dave