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Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:20 am

I have the door seals in from WW. My doors don't close real well without slamming them. I've taken a few sections out at the tight spots to allow the doors to close but now they don't seal real well. The seals from West Coast Metric appear from their pictures to be contoured to the shape of the door. Does anyone have input on this? I'll buy the new ones if they seal better but otherwise, don't want to buy what i already have. Thanks

Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:24 am

it took a few days for my seals to "break in" so that they weren't too tight. From WW as well.

Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:27 am

codeMechanic wrote: it took a few days for my seals to "break in" so that they weren't too tight. From WW as well.

The seal I have in are well over a year old. They just seem to be too thick :?

Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:29 am

wanta23 wrote: codeMechanic wrote: it took a few days for my seals to "break in" so that they weren't too tight. From WW as well.

The seal I have in are well over a year old. They just seem to be too thick :?

OH :shock:

Thu Apr 17, 2008 3:23 pm

Front doors or ?

What year Bus do you have? The original seals are slightly different for different years.

My '63 has all solid rectangular seals on the front doors, although I have seen aftermarket seals that have a sort of center contour to them. The WW (Wolfsburg West) front pillar seal (covers the front door hinges) is not tall enough to seal but the WCM (West Coast Metric) one is bigger and has an angle that will seal that area better but does take some time to wear in... and it looks wrong if that matters to you.

Maybe post some photos?

This page shows some photos
http://www.dropgates.com/resto/doorrubber.html

Thu Apr 17, 2008 5:26 pm

I have heard the aftermarket seals are not as soft in general to that of the OEM making them not good for ease of closing of the doors.

Also they mentioned the color was off as well.

Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:15 pm

Its a '67. The WW are rectangular and quite stiff. The west coast metric ones are contoured as Everette says. Even if they aren't "correct", if they seal well I'll do it. My doors are shut most of the time anyway :D

Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:42 pm

WW are all the same size, the a pillar seal is incorrect. You need to add some filler behinfd the A pillar seal. These seem to be softer then WCM
WCM seals are correct for 66/67 buses and are also what you would have bought at the dealer after 67 if you needed door seals.

EIS also made the 66/67 style seal but out of a softer foam (compound) these seem to work out of the package due to there compound.

I have WCM in my 60 DD, been there for 8 plus years and still are nice.
I have EIS' in my (now gone) 60 DC since June and they went in and I had no problem with closing the doors right after installation, nice seals I just don't like the weight of the seals.

I stock and sell WCM and EIS front and cargo door seals.

Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:13 pm

I've got the same issue with my '66. I have to slam the drivers door or it mysteriously pops open. I installed the WW seals about a year ago. I lost my coffee at about 30mph on the street the other day when I was fumbling to get the door re-closed. When the door is closed it's a nice seal though.

Fri Apr 18, 2008 7:58 am

splitpile wrote: WCM seals are correct for 66/67 buses and are also what you would have bought at the dealer after 67 if you needed door seals. EIS also made the 66/67 style seal but out of a softer foam (compound) these seem to work out of the package due to there compound.

What is unique to 66/67 for the seals to be categorized?

Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:03 am

SurfCityRacing wrote: I've got the same issue with my '66. I have to slam the drivers door or it mysteriously pops open. I installed the WW seals about a year ago. I lost my coffee at about 30mph on the street the other day when I was fumbling to get the door re-closed. When the door is closed it's a nice seal though.

this was happening to me , turned out it was my home made door panels were a little too big causing the door not to shut all the way, almost lost my wife on a left turn, the next week I almost lost my dog on a left turn

I fixed it after that, uh I guess it shows my priority's. heh

Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:09 am

BarryL wrote: splitpile wrote: WCM seals are correct for 66/67 buses and are also what you would have bought at the dealer after 67 if you needed door seals. EIS also made the 66/67 style seal but out of a softer foam (compound) these seem to work out of the package due to there compound.

What is unique to 66/67 for the seals to be categorized?

The factory 66/67 seals for the front doors have 3 different profiles. The upper and B pillar piece has a u channel in it, the front A pillallar piece has a 45 angle on it and is , the seal along the dogleg is a larger profile.
I have a couple perfect used original sets I've removed from different buses over the years and a few NOS pieces (not for sale). These are what I use in all my buses as they seal the doors up the best, even though not correct for earlier buses.
I am not positive as to when the seal profiles changed for the front doos as I have had 64/65 buses with both styles and they appeared to be priginal.

WANTED any pieces of OG seals I can get.

Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:56 am

For reference, my all original May, 1964 Bus has the U-channel seals along the top and the B-pillar (door latch) side. The dogleg and front A pillar are the standard all-rectangular seals.

So the U-channel seals were introduced sometime in 1964.

Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:09 am

codeMechanic wrote: SurfCityRacing wrote: I've got the same issue with my '66. I have to slam the drivers door or it mysteriously pops open. I installed the WW seals about a year ago. I lost my coffee at about 30mph on the street the other day when I was fumbling to get the door re-closed. When the door is closed it's a nice seal though.

this was happening to me , turned out it was my home made door panels were a little too big causing the door not to shut all the way, almost lost my wife on a left turn, the next week I almost lost my dog on a left turn

I fixed it after that, uh I guess it shows my priority's. heh

I think my wife has gotten used to the idea that my dog comes 1st (bus close second) then wife :wink:

Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:22 am

AS i was learned , new vw doors shut tightly and always needed breaking in, but if you feel the hinge is gonna pop dont do it!! and i saw i had to notch the cargo doors where the hinge is underneath so the seal stays flat and wont pop the hinges. as for the seals i had some on my 64 and they worked really good and dont overlap the seals at the post. many do this.

Sat Nov 29, 2008 2:24 am

splitpile wrote:
I stock and sell WCM and EIS front and cargo door seals.

Ronnie, is that what is included in your door seal kits?

Mon Dec 22, 2008 11:18 am

I was installing a door seal kit from cip! today...most of the parts are from WCM. The door seals are rectangular...not square, and leave a good 1/4" gap in most places when the door is closed. I guess I'll have to shim them out in places just so they touch the door....shitty.

Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:46 pm

In most places? Something is wrong with your door. Pics?

There are some spots where the seals overlap, pushing them our further than a single seal width.

Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:30 pm

No pics at the moment. The door seems to be aligned just fine, it's nice and even with the body when closed. The area along the dogleg seems to seal fine, and the area along the window frame looks like it's going to seal fine. (It's out at the moment.) But there is about a 1/4" gap along the lower parts of the a and b pillar.

Where do the seals overlap? I just assumed the pieces needed trimming.

Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:50 pm

I just purchased WCM door seals for my 60 SC and another for my 65. They are contured in differant areas. These are far better than the set that I bought through WW a year ago and i will be taking those out in favor of the WCM sets. I had the same problem on the seal against the door pilar having a large gap with the WW seals.