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Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:05 am

Snoop Bob wrote: burwin wrote: superalex wrote: it only needs 1 pressure switch. i guess the other one was fitted there to close the extra exit.

AH pressure switch!! In my mind it was a warning light in case i lost pressure or somthing - hence I would need 2 one for each cylinder.

Right so I just take a pressure switch out and run 2 cables to the front :roll:

DOH!

Quit listening to this guy/girl. IT NEEDS 2 SENDERS/SWITCHES...The pressure sender/switch attaches to the warning light...That is exactly what it is for. A dual master uses 2 senders/switches. 1 for each stage. The dual master uses a T in the front and a T in the back.

I only have one switch on my dual circuit m/c and it works just fine. There's only one T fitting, at the rear.

(Somebody else's pic)

Tue Jul 05, 2011 4:39 pm

His pic is of a stock 67 master. The stock 67 system uses 2 "T's" and 2 switches/senders. If you want to do it different that's up to you, but it's not the factory way.

Fri Jul 08, 2011 7:48 am

Snoop Bob wrote: burwin wrote: superalex wrote: it only needs 1 pressure switch. i guess the other one was fitted there to close the extra exit.

AH pressure switch!! In my mind it was a warning light in case i lost pressure or somthing - hence I would need 2 one for each cylinder.

Right so I just take a pressure switch out and run 2 cables to the front :roll:

DOH!

Quit listening to this guy/girl. IT NEEDS 2 SENDERS/SWITCHES...The pressure sender/switch attaches to the warning light...That is exactly what it is for. A dual master uses 2 senders/switches. 1 for each stage. The dual master uses a T in the front and a T in the back.

as you said this GUY made a mistake. i didn't know that for dual circuit master cylinders there where 2 pressure switches needed, one for each circuit, installed in parallel.

i'm sorry. i'm so used to see crapy repair made into vw's that i assumed right away that some guy used an old switch as a tampon.

here is the electric drawing that i took from samba where both switches are represented (marked with a blue circle

Fri Jul 08, 2011 7:54 am

OK then I Guess I'll have to modify my wiring to accept 2. When I say modify I mean as per 71 not start to hack up my peeeeeeeerfect untouched wiring loom :D

Yes 2 switches and another T thingy for the front.

I've seen a few guys mount the master cylinder with out the spacer - does this mean they just cut down the push rod?

What's this opinion on this? (I would'nt normally ask to many tedious questions but as my legs in plaster for another 2 wks I've got the time :D :D )

Fri Jul 08, 2011 9:22 am

It will work fine without the spacer if you shorten the pushrod... BUT it will be hard to adjust the pushrod and you will probably need to unbolt the master cylinder to adjust the pushrod.

Fri Jul 08, 2011 2:15 pm

I would not cut down the 67 only pushrod...I would sell it and modify a different one if you are going that route. There are plenty of members that would like to have it.

On a side note...I wasnt trying to give you a hard time. I just wanted him to understand the information he kept going back to wasnt entirely correct for his situation. Sorry for the overt attention getter.

Fri Jul 08, 2011 2:25 pm

Am I missing something? He has a '61 bus with a '61 pushrod, right?

Fri Jul 08, 2011 2:33 pm

bus guy wrote: Am I missing something? He has a '61 bus with a '61 pushrod, right?

I would hope so-
Unless he just has a sick stash of 67 only push rods to mutilate!

Fri Jul 08, 2011 2:45 pm

bus guy wrote: Am I missing something? He has a '61 bus with a '61 pushrod, right?

Yes, the pic he posted on page 4 with the 67 master. I couldn't tell if the pushrod was 67 or not from the pic.

Fri Jul 08, 2011 2:51 pm

push rods's 61

Fri Jul 08, 2011 3:04 pm

burwin wrote:

you should mount the L piece that the rod from gas pedal goes to,outside of the J piece welded to frame,instead of in middle. it will function better and no binding.

Sat Jul 09, 2011 2:32 am

Yeah this leaver does'nt really seem up to the job. I was thinking about keeping it inside the "j" but spacing it out with washers?

If I put it outside do you mean held in place just by the split pin or make up a new axle/stopper combination?

Sat Jul 09, 2011 11:29 am

From the gallery:

Sat Jul 09, 2011 3:52 pm

ok but that little acc-spring no one seems to have it

is it even important?

Sat Jul 09, 2011 3:56 pm

It comes in the accelerator pedal rebuild kit, or you can pick a spring up from the hardware store and make it work.

Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:32 am

burwin wrote: ok but that little acc-spring no one seems to have it

is it even important?
used on flap setup that are in fan housing or wolfsburg west sells them.the pedal repair kit from WW has new L piece,springs,the rod from L to pedal,pin,washer and the springs. about $10...... some vw parts carry the kit also and by putting new kit in you get more pedal travel due to pivet point slight change in linkage.

Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:54 am

Cheers - I'll get get after that spring :D

Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:59 am

Lobotomy wrote: So uh, you wanna get rid of that Fiat 500? :3

It's not mine it's the guy who I rent space off of. He's got 2 and most things he has are for sale - if your interested I can ask him + get more pics.

Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:29 am

Right I never have time to up load pics, so I’ll let the pics do the talking. Just got my spindles pushed back together so fingers crossed it’ll be on all 4’s this wkend.

Yep that’s a reduction box – it’s going back to stock first then one day it’ll get the driver treatment I really want.

Rocker now worked with a pretty nice match to the SWR.

R-B

I also had a realy crappy slow day last wkend as I could’nt put my beam in due to needing to drill out and put oversized grease nipples after some previous botch. So to cheer myself up I broke my rule and broke out the polish on the cab.

It cheered me up, pics soon :D

Fri Dec 09, 2011 12:59 pm

burwin wrote:

Doesn't the second sender go parallel to the first...? Not pointed down.