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Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:02 am

I would like to know if I would benefit much from this cam swap. I would be going from stock to w100 grind. Here is what I have. Already have case split for rebuild.

1600 with these mods.
dual port heads ports cleaned up and lightly
buffed
34 weber ict carbs
solid rocker shafts
019 distributor
1 1/2" tri mill header
balanced rotating assembly, stock crank

The cam I would be going with is either a DPR or Brothers stock 4 rivit dished reground with a w100 grind and stock reground lifters Going with a reground cam as I have a almost new CB maxi pump 2 oil pump for a dished cam.

I have these questions.

1.Would I benefit power wise from this cam swap. If so would power be bottom or top end ?

2. Should I also ad hd single springs . C/M retainers and
hardened valve keepers ?
3. Will stock valve adjusters hold up to this upgrade.
4, Will stock aluminum push rods hold up or should I use
C/M push rods.

Any info will help.

Thanks. saw2

Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:22 am

1 Yes. There should be more power throughout the rpm range.
2 Yes.
3 Because of the increased lift I would use swivel foot adjusters and bolt together rocker shafts.
4 Stock pushrods will be fine.

Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:51 am

^^^What ALB said^^^

The only thing I'd suggest - erring on the safety side - is to use CroMo pushrods. My thinking here is, you have stock aluminum pushrods with who knows how many (100's of thousands) of miles on them and you are adding a significant amount of valve spring pressure on them. I'm thinking it would be relatively cheap insurance to add new stronger pushrods.

Make sure your valve keepers have a gap - that they don't butt together - so they will lock the valve stem and retainer together.

I see you have a 1 1/2" tri mill header. A 1 3/8" header would suit your combo better.

I'd be interested to hear the cam/lifter break in procedure from DPR or Brothers.

Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:36 am

Darth, or any one else

I talked to Brothers they said reground cam and lifters break in is as follows.

2000 rpm for 10 minutes.
Let cool down.
2000 rpm for another 10 minutes.

Does this sound like most other cam break in procedures ?

Thanks.

Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:13 am

Yup, pretty much. Personally I like to remove as much valve spring pressure from the lifters/cam as possible. I would use stock valve springs for break in and then install the HD singles. Since your cam is mild and you aren't reving it much over 2k rpm the stock springs will work fine.

You also want to use a quality oil for break in with zinc and phosphorus levels of at least 1200 - 1500 ppm.

Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:53 am

If I go to swivel adjusters will I need to deal with setting valve geometry, push rod length,etc something I haven't done before but, I'm sure I could figure it out.
Also who makes quality swivel adjusters as you hear about some bad quality ones out there ?

Any idea of noticeable power increase with this cam change.

Thanks. saw2

Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:22 pm

You'll probably be OK on rocker geometry but..........it's really something you should check, just to make sure. You'll be changing a lot of parts in the valve train so you might as well go through the procedure.

I have Porsche adjusters in my engine. They are expensive but they don't break. You can think of them as the last adjusters you'll ever buy.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_se...70-02-M196
Here's what others had to say about the subject:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=463983

Yes, you will experience a noticable power difference with the W100 style cam.

Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:58 pm

Ive seen some of the "porsche"style adjusters(china of corse),and I would not use them on much of any thing, the swivel ball is a good desigin. change your oil & filter after cam break in as the cam lube will clog the filter.depending on the rockers you may need a shim under the rockers to obtain enough lash.I usualy machine the rocker so the swivel foot cam thread up an added .060",as the bottom aera isant machined and is wopsided.doint that you can probably not need any shims at all.I would not worry about geo with that small cam + you are getting your cam reground so that will also lower the lifters/pushrods,you may not need to do any thing at all to get lash clearance.never use more shims than nessary to get the lash you need.I cant say weather you need springs or not,but there cheep and you only require the singles, even if you go to a 1.25 rocker the singles springs will be fine.and get a set of lash caps,only $10.00 and well worth it.the stock pushrods should be fine.I ran them on my fk8 with hd springs, never had an issue,I use them for cam break in with stock rockers whenever I can. the valve springs need heat cycled a few time before you try to kill it.hot,dead cold,hot dead cold.good luck and have fun