| ap_sand |
Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:00 pm |
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Freshly rebuilt, almost stock, DP 1600. When "on choke" idles fine. When warmed up will die if throttle is lifted from high RPM. If it the clutch is pushed in from low RPM, USUALLY idles fine. When transitioning from "on choke" to "off choke" won't idle.
BOCAR 34-4, completely disassassembled, soaked in carb cleaner overnight. Toothbrush scrubbed, rinsed w/carb cleaner and all passages blown clear multiple times. Reassembled with new parts from overhaul kit. Float level confirmed. Idle cutoff operation confirmed.
New SVDA distributor from Cip1. 45 deg dwell, mechnical timing set to 30 BTDC @ 3000 rpm yielding about 40 w/vacuum.
New Bugpack 7 mm non resistor wires (hate the sheetmetal seals on these).
New NGK plugs with good, strong firing verified at 85 psi on a "bomb" tester.
Checked for leaks at throttle shaft, carb base, both ends of vacuum advance hose, carb base to center manifold, center manifold to end casting seals and end castings to head.
Played with point gap/dwell, timing and checked for leaks with carb cleaner and soapy water multiple times.
I'm stumped. Help please! |
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| eth727 |
Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:11 pm |
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| I'm having the same problem with my 30 pict 3. It idles high and is hard to start when warm. Starts up fine when cold. |
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| mharney |
Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:27 pm |
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| Sounds like y'all have plugged idle circuits or a vacuum leak. Toothbrushes don't get into the circuits. |
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| outofplace |
Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:34 pm |
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| i have replaced the little o-rings on the idle mixture and bypass screws from some kits just to have them chewed off while re-installing the screws and not realize what happened until i checked around them for vacuum leaks.it caused similar problems.i get better kits now. |
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| mharney |
Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:25 pm |
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| Never ever put them in DRY. GREASE them, and they'll stay free for adjustments. |
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