duginabug |
Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:16 pm |
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So…you removed your steering wheel and took it apart for whatever reason, and now you find yourself looking at this and scratching your head…
Well, I did the same thing, and I could not find ALL the information I needed by searching the forums. What i did find, however,
was that several others, at one time or another, had the same questions I did, but were not finding the help they needed,
so I thought I'd try to shed some light on the subject of the 60-61 horn issue.
First off, let me say that this is NOT a difficult system. A tad bit over engineered...yes. But by no means is it rocket science.
This is what I did, and my horn works perfectly. I hope that the following step-by-step series of photos will be helpful to someone.
IMPORTANT UPDATE: When installing the steering wheel, slide it onto the shaft until the splines engage, then, BEFORE pushing it all the way down, rotate the wheel 90 degrees either way, then push it on all the way. If you don't do this you will bend the tab on the canceling mechanism. How do I know this you ask? Well...some things in life we have to learn the hard way.
Make sure the brown wire that attaches to the end of the steering column tube, under the fuel tank, has a good, clean connection.
Here's a very basic explanation of how it all works, but first, please understand I'm not an electrician, and I couldn't tell you the difference between wattage, voltage, current and all that stuff, and I'm quite sure there's a better way to explain this so please bear with me and my simplicity.
The brass contact ring with the partial cutout sits on top of the contact spring, which sits in a collar (spring seat), which sits in the bearing that is pressed into the end of the steering column tube. This whole assembly is actually part of the electrical circuit and is isolated from the steering column by a black plastic sleeve. If this sleeve has a spot worn through to the metal, which they often do, your horn will beep intermittently as the steering wheel is turned. "ANNOYING"
Current flows through the steering column tube, the bearing, the spring seat, the contact spring, the contact ring and finally to the metal plate on the back of the steering wheel that has the three contact points...and that is where the circuit is broken...until you push your horn ring.
When you do, one of the three brass pins (depending which side of the ring you push) is pushed down, making contact with the corresponding contact point, thus completing the circuit through the steering wheel, down the steering column and across the jumper on the steering box which is grounded to the chassis.
Now, because the battery is grounded to the chassis as well, you get a complete circuit, and your horn should work.
Here is a quick drawing of it all. Rather crude, but hopefully you get the idea. Click on it to enlarge.
As you can see, in order for the electrical circuit for the horn to be completed, the current flow really has to run the gauntlet, and all it takes is one little something that's boogered up to make the system fail.
What's most important is all the little things intended to insulate "this from that" and the other thing.
ALL the plastic washers, the white plastic piece under the metal plate on the back of the wheel, the black insulating sleeve on the column etc, etc.
It all may seem a bit daunting if your unfamiliar with how it all works, but rest assured, it's not that bad.
Good luck. |
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Insaniac |
Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:59 pm |
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Thank you, this has been very informative! I was having problems with my signal switch rolling around, and I've always wondered what it's problem is. I took off the steering wheel once, but couldn't find the problem. Now looking at your pictures, I realize that one of the PO installed the steering wheel wrong, and it has been wrong ever since!
I'm guess after I fix this, I won't have to manually turn off the signals after every turn as well.
thank you for this! |
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duginabug |
Tue Jul 28, 2009 4:16 pm |
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Insaniac wrote: Thank you, this has been very informative!
You're most welcome. Hope it helps you solve the problem. |
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EODinert |
Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:06 pm |
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You are the man! Thanks for the great write up. |
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zabo |
Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:27 pm |
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:D :D :D :D Thanks!- is next on my list |
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59eurobug |
Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:03 pm |
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I vote to make this a sticky. Great job. |
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zabo |
Sat Aug 01, 2009 5:00 am |
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Im also looking for confirmation on the horn ring part #
The one i have is 113 951 531C- I think thats correct but it looks like someone may have drilled a hole at some time to make it work on later models.
What exactly are the differences in the horn rings?
I also have this piece that i didnt see in your instructions -
this used for the 60? or is that a later part?
thanks again! |
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Eric&Barb |
Sat Aug 01, 2009 7:44 am |
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zabo wrote:
I also have this piece that i didnt see in your instructions -
this used for the 60? or is that a later part?
1962 and later |
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toyvergnugen |
Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:15 pm |
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That is one of the best tutorials ever. I had a 61` and the horn problem drove me nuts. |
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veedubs61 |
Thu Aug 06, 2009 3:13 pm |
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Excellent thread!!!!!!!!!! helped me out a lot
all those in favor of making this a sticky say "beep beep" lol :!: |
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Asunder |
Thu Aug 06, 2009 5:39 pm |
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This should be a sticky, and wish there were more like it on other common maintenance subjects
Great job |
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CUSHE63 |
Thu Aug 06, 2009 7:44 pm |
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Anyone have this same instructions for a 1959 ??? Please !!!
Or piont me in the right direction... I found out my 59 doesn't have all the parts I need towork properly.. I'm pretty sure I'm missing a spring that puts pressure on the shaft and wheel so it has tension on it..
Steve |
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duginabug |
Mon Aug 10, 2009 8:58 am |
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CUSHE63 wrote: Anyone have this same instructions for a 1959 ??? Please !!!
Or piont me in the right direction... I found out my 59 doesn't have all the parts I need towork properly.. I'm pretty sure I'm missing a spring that puts pressure on the shaft and wheel so it has tension on it..
Steve
Not sure this will be of much help to you. http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_12_00/wired_12_00.htm
It really doesn't go into detail about parts and pieces of the wheel assembly though.
You might be able to get some answers in the oval forum. |
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duginabug |
Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:23 am |
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Important information added to this procedure. |
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laneven28 |
Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:56 pm |
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Fantastic thread. Thanks for taking the time to educate the vw community in such a detailed and clear manner.
Any tricks to removing/installing the spring loaded brass contact pins? I'm disassembling my '61 steering wheel now and don't want to jack them or the hub up. |
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duginabug |
Wed Feb 17, 2010 12:33 am |
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laneven28 wrote: Fantastic thread. Thanks for taking the time to educate the vw community in such a detailed and clear manner.
Any tricks to removing/installing the spring loaded brass contact pins? I'm disassembling my '61 steering wheel now and don't want to jack them or the hub up.
Once you remove the horn ring they should just pull right out. |
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hsosa1 |
Sat Jul 03, 2010 11:37 pm |
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where can you buy the rubber bumbers shown in the above pic :?: |
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glutamodo |
Sun Jul 04, 2010 5:31 am |
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You mean these?
I've always got them out of parts cars. I believe it's also the same rubber bumper as this:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211881895
You probably could get something similar at a well-stocked hardware store too.
-Andy |
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66bugtoy |
Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:49 am |
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59eurobug wrote: I vote to make this a sticky. Great job.
Im with you on this one killer info and spot on great job man |
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Boom |
Wed Apr 27, 2011 6:57 pm |
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this is awesome |
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