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Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:11 am

Is this the wideband thread you are referring to?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...mp;start=0

Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:17 am

John, I see you are using Lamba. My innovate reads both lamba and AFR on the screen at the same time but as I'm interpreting from the wideband thread the your wideband was set up to read either but not both simutaneously. Not that it matters just curious.

Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:43 am

yes, that's the thread. Lambda and A/F are the same thing in different presentation, like F and C.

Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:51 am

Since i changed t othe 44's I'm going to take the main stacks out and drive it with just the idles to see what it does. I can borrow some 220 airs and try them also.

Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:06 pm

I removed the main stacks and tried 40, 45 & 50. The car runs best on 50's but the LM 1 is giving error 4 pump circut open. It was doing this intermittantly but now constantly and no AFR readings coming through. The cable appears to be intact and the cable is inserted all the way. Innovate mentions the heater sensor calibration is incorrect and says to do a complete heater calibration according to section 4.6(not just free air calibration) but I can't find section 4.6 on the site. Does anyone know how to do this calibration? I'm wondering if I have been getting some false readings all along. Thanks

Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:16 pm

per http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LM1_Manual.pdf

5. Calibration
There are two types of calibration for the LM-1: free air calibration and sensor heater calibration.
Sensor heater calibration is automatically performed the first time a new sensor is used, while
free air calibration should be executed frequently.

5.1. Free air calibration
To achieve maximum precision, the LM-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
When the measured lambda is greater than 6, the display will show the oxygen content in %. For
free air it should show 20.9%. If the display value is different by more than 0.6%, recalibrate. You
can test the oxygen sensor by breathing on it. The oxygen content of your breath will show.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.
If the wide-band sensor is installed in a vehicle, wait 6-8 hours after running the engine so that all
exhaust gas is dissipated from the exhaust tract of the vehicle. Better yet, disengage the oxygen
sensor and expose the sensor to air (away from the exhaust) for calibration purposes:
1. Connect the meter to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on.
2. After the sensor has warmed up, press the 'Calibrate' button for a minimum of 2 seconds.
3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LM-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start
the car.
The display will show "Free Air Calibr." while it calibrates itself. When the calibration procedure is
finished (2-3 seconds), the display returns to normal showing lambda and oxygen content. If the
oxygen content now differs from 20.9% by more than 0.6%, repeat the calibration.

5.2. Sensor heater calibration
If you change the sensor – either with a replacement sensor or a new type of sensor --, the
heater circuit of the LM-1 needs to be recalibrated as well. (See steps in chapter 3 'First Time
Use'). The heater calibration data in the LM-1 will be reset when the meter is operated from 12V
without a sensor connected for at least 5 seconds. You can force a reset by doing this, and then
recalibrate by turning the unit off, reconnecting the sensor, and turning the unit on.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LM-1 collects and calculates sensorspecific
data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. During the heater
calibration the display will show:
Counting down to 0.
Note: When using the Bosch Sensors the LM-1 may perform multiple calibration passes. This is
normal and need not cause concern. When it completes, continue to a free air calibration. It is
recommended to perform a free air calibration after any time the sensor heater is
recalibrated.

Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:23 pm

Thanks I read this also but in following the error code check list I was looking for section 4.6 which was recommended for this procedure but there was no 4.6 listed in the manual.

Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:48 pm

I have the same LM1 and any time it errors I just do both of them and it resets and starts working again. normally errors on mine when I have been tuning for a while and start up / shut dowm a bunch in a short time.

Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:55 pm

Thanks it's a new toy to me.

Thu Aug 27, 2009 7:31 am

Getting a little closer, with 50 idles under mild acceleration it's 14-15 but on cruise it drops to high 10 -11's which now makes me wonder if there is something else going on like maybe the vacuum advance isn't working properly on the Mallory. Seems like at 2.4-3K under cruise the vacuum advance should be working - correct and this would lean things out.

I also have some questions on air jets. I did try 140, 145 mains with 220 airs and it will not run past 4900. I put in some 180 airs and it will run up to 6 but not well. After reading the 1970 Weber technical book it says the larger airs "weaken the mixture" and smaller airs strenghtne the mixture and this appears to be what I'm seeing but goes against other things I've been told and read elsewhere. Can someone clear this up?

Thu Aug 27, 2009 7:58 am

I ALWAYS suggest tuning idle, air, main, IN THAT ORDER. To tune airs, go TOO BIG ON MAINS, so you KNOW when the mains come in (air jet tuning). Then after the tip-in is correct, change the main to get the A/F right

Thu Aug 27, 2009 11:19 am

i have none of the things in this thread but it is some damn fine Q & A.

the answers are to the point and informative.

well done.

Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:24 pm

Well my engine is just plain wierd. So far the jetting is 50 idle, 155 main, F11's, 10 / 30mm on the floats, choke psitons closed, and here is the wierd deal 140 airs, 12 degrees inital 30 total. The AFR at idle is 14, from idle to 2800 it's 12/13 but there is a spot at 2500 that drops into the 10's, from 3-5 it's 12-13 and from 5-7 it's 12.8 to 13.1. At light cruise it's still 12-13.

I see everyone else is running larger airs than mains and it is just wierd that mine won't run that way. I tried 50 I, 145 M 165 - 220 airs and the larger airs I go the worse it runs an. It runs well with this tune which goes against everything and yes the transition is very nice. I would like it to be leaner on light cruise but it is popping as it is and there are no exhaust leaks.

WTF is with this motor. The leakdown is 97-98%, valves are set at loose zero.

Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:27 pm

1) see if A/F changes with more full advance timing.

2) see if the rich overlap goes away with smaller airs. Smaller airs slow transition.

Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:47 pm

I'll bump the total up a bit and see what happens. I have not adjusted the vacuum advance at all, It's the way it was when I bought it. I can suck on the hose and hear the diaphram working.

Sun Aug 30, 2009 9:07 pm

[quote]Smaller airs slow transition.[/quote

Interesting that exactly what I felt - it's very smooth in the transition but why does it run better up high with the smaller airs?

Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:30 am

Did you ever solve this? Any progress?