TheSamba.com :: View topic - CB Performance Quick Tune EFI, turbo, troubleshooting

Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:14 am

Why is everyone making the assumption he has a turbo motor? :roll:

Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:57 pm

miniman82 wrote: Why is everyone making the assumption he has a turbo motor? :roll:

great question!!... simple answer.... for me, the title of this thread puts my mind in the turbo frame..... but you are correct, he did not say it was turbo.... :oops:

Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:09 am

scs2003 wrote: if it helps here are the specs
Quicktune efi kit with 52lb injectors, 2 bar map sensor, , 52lb T04 profile, SP ignition input

My NA system on a 2332, per Pat D., came with 25 lb injectors and a 1 bar map. That's reasoning for my assumption that it must be a turbo engine.

Wed Jul 13, 2011 12:27 pm

Here's what it boils down to: if he's already at 1.something on the injector PW and still pig rich, there's no other alternative to get less fuel but to reduce fuel pressure or get smaller injectors. Smaller injectors would be the best thing to do, the computer will have more control over them because they will be better matched to the engine displacement. Once you get down into the 1.x PW numbers, you're basically idling on injector open time only, you can't cut flow any less than that.

Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:49 pm

miniman82 wrote: Once you get down into the 1.x PW numbers, you're basically idling on injector open time only, you can't cut flow any less than that.

It depends on the injectors.

Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:32 pm

That's for P&H injectors, saturated ones are worse.

Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:32 pm

Again, it depends on the injectors. I've been running a set of high-impedance Siemens Deka injectors that are controllable at least down to 1.2ms (as far as I have tuned with them at low-load cruise); they idle at 1.46ms and even a +/-0.05ms change in PW noticeably affects the idle quality and AFR.

A 52 lb/hr injector will likely need a PW in the range of 1.4 to 1.6ms for idle on a 2276. That can be done with several of the newer low-impedance or high-impedance injectors that are available today. The minimum opening time for an injector is easy to test, and depends on the injector (the design, brand, model...not just the "type" of injector).

Thu Jul 14, 2011 9:20 am

Theory is theory, put smaller injectors in it I promise it runs better.

Wed Oct 26, 2011 6:25 pm

orb666 wrote: Does anyone know if they plan to make the software iPad compatable?
I'd love to be able to mount the iPad on the dash to monitor head temps, a/f ratio etc - much easier than having a laptop rolling around on the seat.

Orb

I have been thinking the same thing! 8)

Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:37 am

Since my last post. I have installed the t4 turbo as pat said that the system won't work on dual canons which I had on the car and now changed to a one muffler system. The car still running rich even though with complete new exhaust system. Since ten I attempted to drive the car and the car bucks and hesitate and stall when I take my foot of the accelerator.very scarey and not safe thing to do. I then changed the oxygen sensor and the TPS the car idles nicely even though it's still running rich and why it was stalling I worked out and haven't solved as yet is that when the car reaches head temp of 140 it stalls. I am able to start the car with no problem but it stalls straight away. If I let the car cool for a while it starts again untill it reaches that magic figure of 140.
I tried contacting pat by email and phone and lcan't seem to get him.
I leave to you guys to help me out as to what to do. As it is the car is not safe to drive as you have to keep the rev high even after you stop other wise it will stall.
I thought of putting on a dyno but not untill I get these two issues sorted
. Running rich
. Stalling when head temp reaches 140 according to reading on dashboard.

Mon Jan 16, 2012 5:08 am

I might add also changed oxygen map sensor and at the moment running the following

Running only 5lb boost at the moment
New plugs
Timing is set
Electronic egnition
Air/fuel set 13
I am open to any suggestions

Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:46 am

At 140 the ecu is probably going into closed loop and learning is also starting, check your desired a/f ranges as the ecu is probably trying to tune to these, or turn auto tune off untill you can set up a map that runs well

Tue Jan 17, 2012 5:12 am

Made a mistake the Air/fuel is at 14.7. i would like it to be around 13 or less.
perhaps the 02 sensor is faulty (i have changed it once before it didn't work) or perhaps the 02 map sensor is faulty. ? how else can i bring that 14.7 down.
I started the car again and tried it with open and closed loop and still the same, running rich and when it reaches 140 it dyes.

Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:15 am

Can you use a Compu-Fire DIS ignition system with the quick tune efi?

Mon Oct 15, 2012 6:32 pm

NO.

Further, DIS from that company is not distributorless at all since it mounts to.... A DISTRIBUTOR! :roll: It gets you the marketing gimmick of saying you have DIS (you really don't), and you don't get any of the benefits of a true DIS system with crank reference. Wasted money if I ever saw it.

Tue Oct 16, 2012 6:09 am

Summer is here in Australia and its time to rid off the spider webs of my buggy. look at the videos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dQLaXLsIEk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYLKI5qACXQ&feature=relmfu

the buggy is running well with the exception of:
still running slightly rich.
bucks and jerks at cruising speed at around 2k rpm. once past that its fine.

i might try 28 injectors instead of the 52s.
the bucking and jerking. I HAVE NO IDEA.

the problem i had with it dying as was mentioned in previous posts, turned out to be a faulty coil that came with the kit from CB performance (over heats) at 140 temp the coil dyes.

it is scary to drive with so much power and i Havant even gone anywhere 10 pound boost. i hate to think what would happen at 15lb boost. probably blow the engine..ha ha

Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:18 am

Anybody use the Quicktune EFI kit with a WBXer? Do the intakes fit?