TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Apr 27, 2017 1:49 pm

Since Clatter provided the pictures I needed to install the visors, thats what I did. I felt the holes there, but wanted to be sure that was the correct holes. Came out nice to me. I still have to replace the original rear view mirror because it just doesn't look good. Purchased a nice NOS 67 all metal one to replace it. And yes, that steering wheel will be replaced with a brand new black one that I have.

Josh, thanks for the pics, but I ended up installing the foam for the door handle latch under the rod because I didn't have another piece of foam to install under the rod. Door panel install went without a hitch. Everything works as it should and there are no rattles. Someday i'll find some NOS door handle latches and chrome surround. The ones I have are pitted.

Last, I installed the vapor barrier on the passenger side. I was going to install the door panel, but I didn't have enough of the clips. Short five of them...go figure. Now I have to buy an entire set to make up the diff since nobody here sells them individually.

Thu Apr 27, 2017 2:03 pm

This is purely a guess, but the padding in the middle of the rod probably keeps it from rattling. I've been working on my door today, so the subject is timely. Instead of foam, I used little pieces of dynamat I had laying around.

Fri Jun 02, 2017 12:00 pm

Ended up purchasing the stainless bumpers. My initial thoughts on the bumpers is that the finish is really nice. It could be polished a little more, but it is pretty good as is. The smaller bumper pieces fit really well onto the bumpers. The set comes with stainless fasteners, but they cannot be used since they are the wrong lengths. I'm going to purchase new fasteners and post up pictures of the bumpers installed on my car. Here are some pictures of them still in the bubble wrap just taken out of the box.

Mon Jun 05, 2017 11:19 am

As promised, here are some pictures of the Stainless bumpers, particularly the front. One problem I had was that the front bumper is about 0.75" too narrow on each side for my 68. I have a couple friends down here that have the same stainless Steel bumpers, but for 67 and below squares and notches which fit without a problem. I guess they made my bumper wrong. I have contacted the manufacturer and we are trying to work something out.

This picture shows the different widths of the bumpers on the front.

Overall view of both bumpers. The original one is a little bent out of shape. You can also see the wrong shape of the side where it extends to the fender. If I cut them to make the shape approx. 0.75" narrower, they should fit.

This picture shows the wrong length of the hardware that was sent compared to the long one that is used on my 68.

The hardware doesn't have the curved ends to fit the bumper curvature.

I had to change my hardware to the smaller allen head type to fit the bumper brackets.

The little bumpers have different shapes.

The rear installed onto my car.

Tue Jul 18, 2017 3:12 pm

Well everything worked out well with PTT Bumpers. They will be sending me a new bumper that should fit, but I will have to pay for the shipping. Small price to pay to get the right parts.

I also installed 3 point seat belts made by EMPI for a type 1. They fit well after a little switcharoo with the belt buckle and belt itself. The brackets that came with the kit seems heavy duty and fit great.

Started to install some old stereo equipment that I had from a long long time ago. I'll be making some custom kick panels that will fit and look much better than the current ones available. Pictures will be posted as I go along with the build.

Last thing on the list will be carpet for the car. I'm not sure if I want to do this custom myself or go to an upholstery shop. I'm leaning more towards me doing everything and just taking it to an upholstery shop to get bound on the edges.

Mon Oct 09, 2017 3:39 pm

A couple weeks ago, we had our big VW show for the year - The Shaka Weekend. I entered my fasty and came out with 1st place in my class. WOOO HOOO

Mon Oct 09, 2017 5:03 pm

Nice!

Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:59 pm

The car looks beautiful. :D Glad to see you're actually driving it. 8) Well earned trophy too, especially with all the work you put into it (even with the move).

Tue Oct 10, 2017 5:33 am

Congrats on your win! All that time and effort paid off! Get in that car and drive it and enjoy it. Oh, one thing, You're going to have a soar face from all the smiling you'll be doing so get after it! :lol:

Tue Oct 10, 2017 9:15 am

supersuk wrote: A couple weeks ago, we had our big VW show for the year - The Shaka Weekend. I entered my fasty and came out with 1st place in my class. WOOO HOOO

The judges had great taste deciding for the fate of your fasty! One deserving award, buddy! Congrats! CHEERS!

Wed Oct 18, 2017 1:50 pm

We need some inspirational pics of the final result!

How did those bumpers end up working out for you in the end?
Would you do them again?

Fri Oct 20, 2017 3:24 pm

I'll get some better pics of the car once the weather clears up and I have some time to myself.

I would do the bumpers again, but you have to make sure that you give them the measurements of your bumpers for the front portion. The rears fit great without any issues.

Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:22 am

Any of you know what would cause a spark plug to go bad? The reason why i'm asking is because one day after a drive the car started to run on 3 cylinders all of a sudden. When I get home to check, I noticed that cylinder no. 3 wasn't firing. First thing I do is check if there is spark. I do get spark, but its very very weak and orange colored. The other cylinders are firing a strong blue spark. I look at the plug and everything looks normal. No eroded electrode, insulation looks fine, nothing jumps out at me. So I changed the LS1 coil with a spare that I have and the same result, weak orange spark. So it couldn't be the coil is what I thought. Went to the auto parts store to pick up a set of plugs and voila, nice healthy spark again with both coils. The plugs have been in the engine for several years, with very little run time. I'd say somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 hours total tuning and driving.

The only thing I can think of that could be a remote possibility is that I leave the car on quite a bit to chase down electrical gremlins, work on the stereo, work on the air ride, etc. without having the engine run. My understanding about the microsquirt is that the coil packs are on and energized as long as the ecu is on. Lets say that the timing wheel is at the exact position where it would trigger a spark on a particular cylinder, then the coil could possibly be discharging energy through that plug? Could that possibly be the reason why the spark plug could go bad?

Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:59 am

supersuk wrote: Any of you know what would cause a spark plug to go bad? The reason why i'm asking is because one day after a drive the car started to run on 3 cylinders all of a sudden. When I get home to check, I noticed that cylinder no. 3 wasn't firing. First thing I do is check if there is spark. I do get spark, but its very very weak and orange colored. The other cylinders are firing a strong blue spark. I look at the plug and everything looks normal. No eroded electrode, insulation looks fine, nothing jumps out at me. So I changed the LS1 coil with a spare that I have and the same result, weak orange spark. So it couldn't be the coil is what I thought. Went to the auto parts store to pick up a set of plugs and voila, nice healthy spark again with both coils. The plugs have been in the engine for several years, with very little run time. I'd say somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 hours total tuning and driving.

The only thing I can think of that could be a remote possibility is that I leave the car on quite a bit to chase down electrical gremlins, work on the stereo, work on the air ride, etc. without having the engine run. My understanding about the microsquirt is that the coil packs are on and energized as long as the ecu is on. Lets say that the timing wheel is at the exact position where it would trigger a spark on a particular cylinder, then the coil could possibly be discharging energy through that plug? Could that possibly be the reason why the spark plug could go bad?

Not knowing enough about microsquirt, it's hard to say. But that could be a possibility. Thing about it like this, with points, if the points are open, and the power is on, you can get pitting of the points due to the arc trying to jump the gap. I know it's not the same thing, but if a standard "old coil and points" system can burn points just sitting there with the key on, then it's possible for it to do what you're running into.
I don't really know what would cause a spark plug to do what you're describing though. :-k

Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:11 am

There's bad plugs out there.

To test if that's the case,
put a few thousand miles on it, pull the plug and look! :D

Sat Oct 28, 2017 12:45 pm

Clatter wrote: There's bad plugs out there.

To test if that's the case,
put a few thousand miles on it, pull the plug and look! :D

I didn't think about it like that Steve. But then I've been using NGK plugs.

Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:34 am

HA! The plug that went bad was an NGK. I've never had a plug go bad, even when they're worn so much that you can't even see an electrode...just made me wonder why it goes bad when everything looks fine. Not sure how the plugs look or work on the inside.

Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:38 am

Maybe carry a spare..

Where's the pics?
I'd have me a professional photog on it already! :lol:

When is HotVWs going to run a feature?

Oh, wait.. That's right.. It's a Fastback. :lol:

Wed Jun 13, 2018 1:14 pm

So i'm chasing down an oil leak on my engine. I believe the oil leak is coming from the two bolts that hold in the oil relief/pressure pistons on the bottom of the engine (I have a dual relief case). I have the aftermarket bolts that replace the large flat head screw ones. I can't remember if there is a rubber gasket or just a regular washer there that helps to seal it. Was I supposed to use some type of gasketing material if it was just a washer? I don't recall the OEM screw type having a gasket.

Wed Jun 13, 2018 2:30 pm

There is a little thin aluminum crush-ring that goes under the plunger plugs.

They come in the gasket set.

Seamed side of it goes towards the case.

I smear a little 494 on them, just for good measure,
But you're not supposed to have to do that.

Where's the pics of your car at, again?

You know the one,
Where it's parked right next to the parking stripe,
So we can see how straight it is by the reflection??!? :lol: