TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:24 pm

build looks great. was curious what kind of rear brake drums you are using and how heavy you think you're car is going to weigh?

Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:24 pm

Chubby, those are Type 181 (Thing) rear brake drums... direct bolt on to bug IRS rear stub axle, backing plate, brake shoes, etc... just slip the old drum off and bolt on the thing drum... was very common in the "old days" of class 5-1600 and 1/2-1600.

Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:34 pm

thanks chubby! and i think its aroud 2000 to 2300,

and as for your shakes, i know its been a while but my vibreations were due to the front end being out of allingment.

and i finnaly got out to the desert!
heres some vids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i00idDVbbLM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsR0VjckGZk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRBefVZl8qM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-HON_j3ne8

Sun Mar 24, 2013 12:10 pm

before you finished the cage did you have the cage welded to the floor pan with the rear shocks mounted to it?

Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:30 pm

Yes, but the cage was also welded to the torsion housing and frame horns

Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:50 pm

Sweet build. Looks like it handles pretty good in the dirt. I'm waiting for the videos of the wheels leaving the ground next :twisted:
And pictures of it completely assembled?

Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:28 pm

thanks hondub! just cause you asked here ya go

my buddie made this edit for me, enjoy :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moPlyFrfDhY

first trip! the go pro batt died before we could find any real jumps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReS682gWv_8

i was having problems with my carb flooding in the bumps so i made some vents, and that made a huge difference.
i took somemore video today so there will be more pics and vids coming soon.

Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:44 pm

It may not have been a huge jump but it looked like that handles the jump pretty well.

You know, if you had fuel injection you wouldn't have to worry about the carb flooring out :lol:

Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:45 pm

hahaha that is very true,
i revented my bowl and it made a world of difference,
i have some pics and vids but im having a hard time uploading right now ill try and get them up,

but i might be considering a new engine sistuation soon,
buick 3.8 or big vw?

Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:52 pm

I'll keep an eye out for them.
Those are two very different options. Personally I think water cooled is the way to go. Half the price, twice the power and reliability, and it won't leak oil after the first oil change :D
If you are planning on sticking with the transaxle you have, I would go with an Ecotec or other 4 cylinder engine.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:56 pm

yeah i was looking at the 2.2 ecotec but this v6 is super cheap, just need to figure out the fuel delevery system and im good to go on that, and the trans will be gone through here soon,

Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:10 am

I don't blame you. That's why I have a V6. It was cheaper than an Ecotec for higher, more reliable horsepower. Mine was pushing the bus box though so now I'm going a whole new route for a trans.

Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:47 pm

well I got a 1915, spent most of the day cleaning the carbs and synchronizing them, (they are weber 44s) I have been adjusting the fuel air ratio set screws and i used a temp gun to check the temp of the headers to see if they were rich or lean, and got the engine too idle and run pretty good, set the timing at 9 degrees, fuel pressure is set too 6 pounds, It seems to stumble at 3000 rpms but once past that it keeps pulling hard. anyone come across this before? should I be adjusting my air bypass set screw? I have each one turned out a half turn. they were bottomed out when I got the engine.

Sun Jun 02, 2013 7:01 pm

Sounds like you need a little rejetting in there. I'd say try a richer main and see if the stumble goes away. Other than that, Wow! awesome build. I'm jealous, how much time total on all the tube and wiring work?

Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:25 pm

thanks! its blowing a little black smoke when i rev it, could that be the accelerator pump? as for build time... it took two years too be drive able, i did the wiring in a couple days, tube work took a while. part of the reason that took so long was due too cash flow, so most of
that time was waiting on parts.

new engine with my rusty old exhaust, plan on moving the coil too the engine cage.

last run before the 1600 gave out

Mon Jun 03, 2013 3:40 am

I like your cars stance. How far did you push the front out and what arms are you running? (front and back?)

Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:45 am

geoffwg wrote: well I got a 1915, spent most of the day cleaning the carbs and synchronizing them, (they are weber 44s) I have been adjusting the fuel air ratio set screws and i used a temp gun to check the temp of the headers to see if they were rich or lean, and got the engine too idle and run pretty good, set the timing at 9 degrees, fuel pressure is set too 6 pounds, It seems to stumble at 3000 rpms but once past that it keeps pulling hard. anyone come across this before? should I be adjusting my air bypass set screw? I have each one turned out a half turn. they were bottomed out when I got the engine.

Danger will robinson! Webers only like 2.5-3 psi. You are force feeding them at 6 pounds, likely blowing fuel right past the needle/float.

Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:36 am

Very nice Baja, love it