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Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:47 am

Thats a B case, so that should be an older single relief, 10mm stud case. Would have started out life as a single port 15-1600 (I believe 1970 was a single port 1600). Not ideal for a performance build basis, but it can be done.

No matter what you decide to full-flow is a must. There is no cooling advantage unless you plan on plumbing an external cooler, but having an actual filter on there will let your engine run cleaner and live longer.

feel free to pm me if you need more help/info. I can even suggest you some engine combos if interested.

Mon Oct 31, 2011 3:32 pm

hmm you have given me a lot to think on, im sure there will be many more questions too come. and thanks again for all your information.

i do have an external oil filter.
it is the oil pump that works off the cam.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC115165.html

i went with this because i did not want too tap into my case.
do the full flow pumps have any advantages over this pump system?

Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:51 am

geoffwg wrote: hmm you have given me a lot to think on, im sure there will be many more questions too come. and thanks again for all your information.

i do have an external oil filter.
it is the oil pump that works off the cam.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC115165.html

i went with this because i did not want too tap into my case.
do the full flow pumps have any advantages over this pump system?

I just tore down an engine that seized the front main running one of these pump/cover combos. I'm not a big fan of them or the ones that have the oil filter directly on them (mexican beetle style). Full flow has the advantage that all the oil is directed through the filter/cooler. MOST of the pump/filter combos allow for oil bypass at higher pressures, so oil is allowed to still run un-filtered through the case (although the same can be said to some extent for filters with built in bypass valves). With those covers the oil flows out, through the filter/cooler/etc, back into the cover, and takes two 90 degree bends in order to enter the stock oil passageway, where it takes another 90 toward the oil cooler and rear relief gallery. A full flow cover enters the case through one 90, and then is a straight shot into the oil passage to the stock cooler location.

Sorry for the rambeling answer lol. To answer your question directly, that pump will work ok for what you are doing. If you are tearing into the case though, full-flow is the way to go.

To correct my previous post, there were 2 H code cases. an H0 ('69) and an H5 ('70). While the H5 is considered the better of the two, it is still not ideal for a performance engine build (still has the single relief, 10mm studs).

Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:57 am

i have been pushing forward with my front end a bit.

i also have been trying to address my door sag issue since i chopped off the front of my car.

seems to be working very well.

i would have liked to do this same kind of bracing for the top hinges but my A pillar is not tucked in close enough for my liking.

so in stead i will tie the bottom of my dash to cage to try and stiffen up the body a little more.

does any one know if this is a 930 or 934 stub axle?

the box said it was a 934 but all i have to compare it too is my type one.

i found this floating around in an old picture album.

Wed Nov 16, 2011 10:18 am

im getting pretty close too finishing up the tube work on the front of my car. all i have left now is shock towers and a skid plate.
still a bunch to do though. :wink:

then i added a little support to my dash bar.

its gets rather close to my shift nob in first gear but i think it will work out fine.

i finally have found a motor combo that will work for my wallet :lol:

the motor is a Mazda rotary (13b i believe)
ive been looking at some builds with the 13b, and i know that these motors are notorious for lacking ummph in the lower rpm range, but im not usually spending that much time in that rpm range, or dont plan on it any ways :lol:

i haven't been able to find what people are doing to there transmissions to run the rotary engine though. (ring and pinion gear ratios and what not)

i have to buy a bus trans, and with how much the engine spins i don't think the bus gears will be low enough. or i could be completely off :roll:

i can get this motor and maybe a holly carb for cheap, 100 to 200 range

any advise with this would be super helpful.

Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:27 am

alright just found a bunch of pictures of my front end
i know you guys wanted me to post up some pics so here they are :)

i know its not top notch work but this is what i started on :lol:

no shocks or gas tank mounted in the pics
the tank was a five or 6 gallon spun aluminum tank and it hung right in the center.

i got rid of my stock shock mounts to run a longer shock but then wasnt happy with that. so then i got some longer shocks and made some new mounts for the shocks. im not to proud of that set up but i had fun :lol:

then some of the the front clip removal,

Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:23 am

updates

goodby cage

cut out my cage from the b pillar back.
a freind of my helped me out with his new portable band saw..... i want one :twisted:
after i finish the front end i will mock up my 3x3s then i will start building my cage up again.
its all revolving around the rear suspension.

i also cut out some of my fire wall (a little more than in the picture)
i plan to reses my fuel cell into where the fire wall used to be then make some sort of new fire wall... all to come

this came out

unfortunatly i will be putting my bug on the back burner for a while untill square up my daily driver.

in the mean time im going to try and sell some stuff and save up for a bus trans some new link pin knuckels and all that fun stuff.

Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:42 am

Rotaries are fun motors but they are not simple and not cheap. They are excellent endurance motors, seem to run forever if they are not cooled down, Heat cycling them can be a problem. They run and make power very like a cammed 2liter na motor.
But;
Mazda does not support old designs well. They reckon about 15 years and done it seems. The 13b has gone through about 6 major changes since they came out in 1974 and at least the first three designs are not supported. Mix and match parts is not always possible despite the implication of a common engine designation. There is no aftermarket either. So used engines seem cheap.
The "crankshaft" is in the center of the engine. This means it will hang down quite a bit in a Bug application. Ground clearance or transmission mounting are special issues here. Transaxle adapters are available, they are same as roadracers use for Hewland boxes. They are not cheap though.
The engines require TWO full sized cooling systems. One for water, another for oil. They are big for a Bug [not a bug sized oil cooler, a radiator sized oil cooler, with a fan] and expensive.
Rotaries hate heat and dirt, two things that are very common in the Baja world.
These are ported engines, The exhaust tune is as important as a cam in a valve motor. Good exhausts can almost double the power on them. They love large diameter low restriction 2 1/2" and 3" pipes. The optimum primary length, the distance from the motor to the collector before the muffler, is 13 FEET for a 12a, more for a 13b. Few RX7 racers have all that under them.
Turbochargers minimize the exhaust package length issue but greatly complicate all the other issues, and durability.
They run very hot exhausts. You need stainless steel. My last RX7 race car I tried a normal exhaust tube exhaust, it burned through in 3 months. Packaging a 15' long exhaust on a Baja will look like a pipe organ or a brass band got backed into. And it will be very expensive. That race car had 3 stainless steel mufflers and still needed a Supertrapp cork in it to meet Laguna Seca sound limits.
Rotaries love to backfire when you shift. This is a ported engine thing. If you see a rotary running at night you will see a flame attached to this back fire. My RX7 throws a 15' flame with every shift, sometimes more, really only visible at night. I don't know what kind of spark arrestor you will need on a Baja to deal with this. Big I bet.
Sorry about your Wheaties.
Dennis
Dennis

Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:37 pm

wow :shock:
im definatly going to reconsider my engine sistuation.
from what your saying its looking like i will be investing a little extra cash into this engine than i would like.
i caught the itch to put a rotory in my baja after i rode in this sand rail with a turbo 13b, and it was the fastest thing i have ever been in.

i was pulling my engine out the other day and with a few wire disconects and four bolts my engine was out and i started asking my self if i really want too lose this simplicity...

thanks for all the info dennis
lots of good stuff i will hold on too

im thinkin rotory in my next street bug

Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:59 pm

A friend of my dads had a rotary in his VW fastback. That thing was STUPID fast. His also spit fire like a mo-fo. A nice awesome blue flame. He said he loved it. The only issue with them is that they don't last very long as a DD engine.

Oh, and leguna seca has a noise limit of 103 Db. I know this because I used to work in a private shop that restored vintage race cars. One of the cars that was raced was a 83 vette with a 454 putting out 600HP + and it was running about 110 or so Db.

Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:50 am

i picked up this 1974 super for my buddy who is in afganistan right now. when he finishes his deployment he plans too start building up this bug so maybe we will have another build thread :wink:

he paid 550 for it, and this thing is clean! (no engine)
he plans to cut off the strut front end and do a full cage 3x3s and so on....

i also found out my cherokee can tow just fine!
we will see how it does with my bug though

i finally got my arms on and cycling correctly :D

although on the passenger side, my bottom arm sticks out a little bit of the bushing. i already shimed it up a bunch and cant pull any more out of the top...

mounted up my tires

then threw my bumper on there just for fun.

Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:56 pm

Car is looking nice.

Mike

Tue Jan 17, 2012 6:39 pm

thanks mike :)

well i put my trans up on craigs list for 250 bucks

i was wondering if any of you guys have some advice on the price i am asking? hi low??

it has a super diff
aluminum side cover
hardend shift fork

Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:47 am

Sorry, I seem to have forgotten what rear end you have. Is it swing, or irs trans that you're selling?

Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:42 pm

its a irs

Mon Jan 23, 2012 7:58 am

aa stock irs around here usually goes for $100. I picked up a stock one for $20 not that long ago. But yours does have some extras so the price doesnt seem high to me

Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:24 am

looks good. what size are those front tires?

Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:26 am

thanks
those are 33x9.50r15 bfg muds
im kinda bummed that bfg stopped making this tire. cause for the rear i will be running a 33x10.50.
i think they make a similar tire but i belive they are a little pricy.

as for an update im waitin on a tax return so i can by some coil over adaptor plates then i can start workin on my cage and buy some hiem joints so i can finish up the front end

Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:46 pm

picked up an 1987, may be a 1988 buick 3.8 for my buddys bug
100 bucks for the engine, computer and harness...

Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:23 pm

i like!!!