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Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:26 pm

Does anyone have picures or a how to on Type 1 rocker arm spray bars.

Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:44 am

I have never seen a spray bar setup for a VW motor but I have seen them in Datsun 4-6 cylinder L-series motors, it shouldn't be too hard to mount a tube to the rocker stands to spray on to the valve springs and rocker arms. I have allways wanted to try boring the cam down the middle and drilling a oil hole in the base circle to lube the lifters like they did on the Datsun motors, it would be a good reason to use the new 30mm oil pump I have sitting on the shelf.

Casey

Sat Oct 22, 2011 9:07 am

The only problem with the oil tube for the valve train is that the oil is brought up through the push rods. I'm working on doing the Bob Hoover HVX mods. It does the same thing.

Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:06 am

Autocraft 910 heads have the spray bar option.

Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:19 am

If your going to put all that extra oil in the valve covers you better have a good way to suck it all back out because it sure isn't gonna drain down the P/R tubes.

Sat Oct 22, 2011 11:47 am

Putting #8 drains from the heads to the case is not a big deal, if you use a 3.5 Qt. deep sump you can run the oil level a bit low so the oil will drain back with no problem.

Casey

Sat Oct 22, 2011 12:05 pm

Left valve cover has a hard enough time draining oil as it is. Add a spray bar in there, and you'll have to do more than just -8 lines for drains IMHO. I have two 3/4" drain lines from my valve cover down to my 4qt sump (no spray bar), and that still doesn't cut it with the high rpms to allow me to run a breather vent on that side. I only breath from the alternator stand and right side valve cover currently.

But come to think of it, if I have that much oil in the left valve cover, a spray bar on that side seems rather pointless. Maybe only the passenger side would benefit from one?

Sat Oct 22, 2011 12:27 pm

sorry, I meant #12 hose, do you have it in the valve cover or the bottom of the head. It should be in the bottom rear of the head. do you run your oil level at the stock level on the dip stick? if you do the hose may be below the oil level and it will drain slower then if you run the oil level about the bottom of the dip stick. Do you run it to the case or the deep sump?

Casey

Sat Oct 22, 2011 12:44 pm

scott9398 wrote: Does anyone have picures or a how to on Type 1 rocker arm spray bars.
Drill a small hole near the top of the push rod?

Question is though: why do you think you need s/th like that? What problem do you want to have solved?

Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:30 pm

The reason for spray bars is quite simple... people buy poorly designed rocker arms without any oiling holes in them and they need to get oil to their poorly thought out needle bearing setup...hence the need for more complexity... or they simply want to run their pushrods without oil in them to make them lighter and make the engine rev higher.

Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:34 pm

Spray bars are not just to lube the valve train, They also help cool the valve springs and to a lesser degree the head

Casey

Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:44 pm

I add a oil slot to the rockers bushings and a hole aiming at the spring/tip aera. also add the extra gally to the case and slot the lifter bores at the gally holes(horizontle not around). a small spray bar would be easyand not use much oil and over fill the valve cover like some of you guys have a problem with. you could also make a oil pressure bypass that bypass the pressure to the valve covers to the spray bars instead of dumping it into the #3 exhaust pushrod tube to fill your cover.hmm if the valve covers are full why do you need to spray more oil in there???something to ponder on.(and if you make a pressure bypass to spray the springs you can use cooler oil than what has already went through your motor,just get it after the cooler but befor the oil go's to the case. or you could use the xb cooler that has a tap on the front of it so you can get oil directly from the dogystyle cooler.

Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:39 am

mark tucker wrote: I add a oil slot to the rockers bushings and a hole aiming at the spring/tip aera. also add the extra gally to the case and slot the lifter bores at the gally holes(horizontle not around). a small spray bar would be easyand not use much oil and over fill the valve cover like some of you guys have a problem with. you could also make a oil pressure bypass that bypass the pressure to the valve covers to the spray bars instead of dumping it into the #3 exhaust pushrod tube to fill your cover.hmm if the valve covers are full why do you need to spray more oil in there???something to ponder on.(and if you make a pressure bypass to spray the springs you can use cooler oil than what has already went through your motor,just get it after the cooler but befor the oil go's to the case. or you could use the xb cooler that has a tap on the front of it so you can get oil directly from the dogystyle cooler. Sounds like typical 340 Mopar mechanical rocker mods there. I agree on the 3/4 valve cover deal....seems like you'd only need a spray bar on the 1/2 side if it was beneficial....maybe yes, maybe no. Need to super glue a thermo couple to the head by the valve springs on both sides and see the difference of the flooded side to the empty side.

RC

Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:03 am

I was messen with that one, mine dont flood.if you do it do both sides.and you might want to think about valve stem seals(witch I was going to install on mine this time but it kinda sliped my mind and remembered when the motor was assembled)

Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:21 am

I seem to recall in Bob Hoovers writing's he was tring to get more oil in the 1-2 side, I think if you put drains in the bottom of the heads [not the valve covers] and route them to the sump of the case [not the deep sump] A deep sump would be required so you can run the oil level a bit lower so they will drain. If you could find a "Autostick" oil pump, You could use it for the spray bars and not take any oil from the bearings, you could even run the oil through a cooler first so it will help cool the heads even better. HMMM
You could also plug the push rods to save a bit of weight in the valve train.

Casey

Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:24 am

earthquake wrote: I seem to recall in Bob Hovers writing's he was tring to get more oil in the 1-2 side, I think if you put drains in the bottom of the heads [not the valve covers] and route them to the sump of the case [not the deep sump] A deep sump would be required so you can run the oil level a bit lower so they will drain. If you could find a "Autostick" oil pump, You could use it for the spray bars and not take any oil from the bearings, you could even run the oil through a cooler first so it will help cool the heads even better. HMMM
You could also plug the push rods to save a bit of weight in the valve train.

Casey and not lube the rockers!!!instead just use a light weight oil !!

Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:57 am

Here is Bob Hoovers page for those interested:

http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2007/05/hvx-mods.html

Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:12 pm

earthquake wrote: Spray bars are not just to lube the valve train, They also help cool the valve springs and to a lesser degree the head
yes which is why they used them on porsche 911. but this ain't no 911. these heads get more than enough cooling from air alone. have you seen 911 heads? they're tiny. they require the oil spray to cool them. type 1 heads do not.

Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:51 pm

Bob hoovers HVX engine mods connected the two oil channels and grooved the lifters to provide full time oiling to the heads. The HVZ mods also widen the cam bearing engine half connection channels. If I remember correctly he wrote that his oil mods put ~8 times the oil to the heads. He did not put vents on his valve covers. (Pressure in the head helps push the oil back down the pushrod tubes.) He used rabbit seals on the guides to seal the valve guides. He talked about using a typs 4 oil cooler mod as his oil mods picked up alot of heat. In the heads the stock type rocker arms are grooved in the rocker shaft mounting hole to connect the two parts of the rocker arm. He also grooved the rocker arm shaft. The rocker arm's set screws were replaced with "ford/subie" ball in cup type. This type had an internal oil chanel to lube the ball. With full time oiling and a much higher flow rate the spring retainer throws the oil out at the valve cover which is like throwing a cup of water at the wall (it goes every where).

Mon Oct 24, 2011 4:41 pm

buglover34465 wrote: Bob hoovers HVX engine mods connected the two oil channels and grooved the lifters to provide full time oiling to the heads. The HVZ mods also widen the cam bearing engine half connection channels. If I remember correctly he wrote that his oil mods put ~8 times the oil to the heads. He did not put vents on his valve covers. (Pressure in the head helps push the oil back down the pushrod tubes.) He used rabbit seals on the guides to seal the valve guides. He talked about using a typs 4 oil cooler mod as his oil mods picked up alot of heat. In the heads the stock type rocker arms are grooved in the rocker shaft mounting hole to connect the two parts of the rocker arm. He also grooved the rocker arm shaft. The rocker arm's set screws were replaced with "ford/subie" ball in cup type. This type had an internal oil chanel to lube the ball. With full time oiling and a much higher flow rate the spring retainer throws the oil out at the valve cover which is like throwing a cup of water at the wall (it goes every where). and thus with the added oil usage the need for the 30 mm pump.and now all the rockers will get oil all the time if you do it right.hmm just remembered a 1917 chevy we worked on 20 years ago,no valve cover, no rocker cover, but an oil can on the fire wall to oil the rockers every 10 miles(if you could remember too.)I wonder why this system went away???I dont remember our subie having the swivel feet but our mazda did.and ford & mazda have been togeather for a very long time.