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Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:53 am

svenakela wrote: Scott, in the early 90's a guy I know took the engine out of what you have in the background and put it in a '69 Beetle. :)

I have been doing some MS conversions and I think you are building a great engine setup. My experience is to use reliable well working sensors, that can solve a lot of headache that might show up later on.

Sooner or later I'm going to get my Syncro that's parked up north. I was thinking of converting it into a diesel, but a MS-ified gasser is for sure an alternative...

svenakela, I definitely agree. Starting off with a good solid base is the first step. I didn't want to swap over an engine management system from another car with aging sensors and electrical components. I wanted a fresh start.

If you wouldn't mind, I'd like to chat with you more if possible about the buildup of the megasquirt. I haven't purchased the kit yet, but will be shortly.

Thanks,

Scott

Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:06 pm

John Anthony wrote: Howesight wrote: Cheers to SL12572:

...

4. J&S Safeguard is an excellent stand-alone knock control system that can be used on any engine running any engine management system except wasted spark. It is cylinder-selective, which is why wasted spark won't allow it to be effective. Here's a link to their website:

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/

5. The beauty of the J&S is that the sensitivity can be adjusted easily. It will not require an engineering degree to place the knock sensor correctly, although you will be the guinea pig if you take up the challenge. Many OEMs place the sensors closer to the crank end of the cylinder, presumably to avoid false readings from valve-train noise. In the WBX, you might have to run two knock sensors.

...

Your statement about the SafeGuard not working with waste spark is incorrect.

In a waste spark pair, only one cylinder of that pair is on its compression stroke, the other is a dead hole.

Software knows the knocking cylinder is the one that was on its compression stroke, and won't be again for another two revolutions. Two revolutions later, software dials in the calculated amount of knock retard for THAT cylinder.

The other cylinder of that pair is not retarded on ITS compression stroke, unless of course it was also knocking.

No problem to do waste spark with the SafeGuard.

John:

Many thanks for clearing that up. I bought my Safeguard used and thought for some (obviously wrong) reason that it couldn't use cylinder-selective knock control with waste spark. Your system was excellent on the distributor-based turbo Toyota project I did some years ago.

I personally think the cost would be very much warranted on any high-compression or turbocharged WBX engine.

Thu Nov 03, 2011 11:16 pm

I got a follow up email from J and S today. After some review they say that in addition to the universal unit, thier "vampire" unit would work, too. It is simpler set up with just one wire and would and would just retard timing to offset detonation. Still $600+ to install.

Hans

Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:56 pm

Hey SL12572:

Any updates on the WBXturbo project?

Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:03 pm

Howesight wrote: Hey SL12572:

Any updates on the WBXturbo project?

Hi Howesight,

Not a whole lot to report at this time. I have completely dissasembled and cleaned the engine in prep for the rebuild. The condition of this engine is pretty impressive considering the amount of miles it had on it.

I've been talking with Rocky Jennings about some details of the rebuild. He will be my main source of parts. Rocky took a lot of time in answering my many questions and is VERY knowledgeable about the WBX. I'll also be dealing with John Connolly @ aircooled.net and Chris (tencent).

Hopefully soon I will begin the project of building up the Megasquirt II and doing some more detailed plans on routing the turbocharger.

A couple of plans I have for attacking the head corrosion issue will be alodining the head surface and using proseal (widely used aviation sealing compound) on the water jacket seals.

Sorry that it will be a slow process. I'm spending a lot of time researching and planning this build. I want it to be right! :lol:

Any questions or suggestions, I'm listening!

Scott

Mon Dec 26, 2011 6:42 pm

Time for a little update.

The progress has been slow due to the problem everyone faces. Not enough time and not enough money, but in any event, I have ordered up the Megasquirt II ems kit to start the build.

I'm having two MS units shipped to me, which will be built at the same time. One for my Syncro and one for another fellow Syncro owner that has already turbocharged his WBX. He's been happy with his turbocharged engine, but tuneability with the stock ems has been difficult and not perfect. I will let him identify himself if he decides he wants to. 8)

The plan for me is to start from scratch. I'd like to build a clean setup with new sensors. Ignition will be timed by a trigger wheel from a modified distributer housing. There will be no shortcuts and the plan is to have a very clean looking WBX that runs as good as it looks.

Be patient...It will be a long project :) [/img]

Mon Dec 26, 2011 8:36 pm

How accurate is having the trigger wheel driven frOm a modified distributor? I have never seen this done, any examples? Will the weight of the trigger wheel mounted that way not have any side effects? How Many teeth to the wheel would this be?

Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:51 am

Small Update:

Assembly of the Megasquirt kits has begun!

I started off with assembly of the Megastim, which is used to test the Megasquirt in stages during the build. So far the assembly is going well. It requires you to be very slow and work in a detailed/methodical order, especially when building two.

toomanyveedubs:

The trigger wheel is just as accurate as a distributor, without having components to wear. It's driven off the original distributor gear. Using an electrical sensor, instead of mechanical means, you have the ability to modify the ignition map using a laptop throughout the entire rpm range.

I can't answer how many teeth the wheel I'll be using will have, but they range in many different sizes and the amount of teeth. I will be sure and report once I get to that stage.

Scott

Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:03 am

thanks for the update./

i have a megajolt kit still in the box for my doka and was planning a trigger wheel off the main crank pully but i like the idea of having it off the distributor. i imagine the less teeth you use the less precise you can tune ignition?

i bought it because i have a terrible flat spot before the dist advances with my 009 bosch dist on my carb'd 1.9l water boxer.

hopefully you will inspire me when i see yours running :)

Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:44 am

Mega interested in this as well!

Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:36 pm

The two MSII units are finally finished....Some final testing is in order with a professional MS builder later this week...Can't wait to see them running in the van...

Fri Apr 20, 2012 5:40 pm

As mentioned before, this will be a long project....But in any event, thought I should give an update.

I just got my crankcase halves back from Rocky Jennings. I had them modified to accept threaded plugs, versus the expansion type plugs. Also had the water pump surface worked on. Everything turned out great. Included in the package was the RJE improved connecting rods. They are inspected, balanced, and includes the non stretch bolts.

One of the AMC heads had slight pitting to it. I probably could have gotten away with a little JB weld, but, I wanted to sleep at night, so I had the pits welded, and the head was milled.

As soon as I get back to Bellingham, I will snap some pictures...I know a post is useless without pics. :)

Scott

Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:00 pm

Good to hear things are moving along, I like to read your updates!

Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:31 pm

two bits from my Volvo world experience:

You can vary the performance by changing the cam; the 24X/74X series turbos came with a variety of cams in the turbo/non-turbo forms. The typical turbo cam wasn't too wild, and I recall the guys building aggressive engines would look for a specific cam that well-matched their intentions.

Oil squirters, while a nice addition, aren't necessary; the B23X engines didn't get oil squirters until 1993, the last year of the 24X series cars, which had been turboed since 1981.

I would guess that the Volvo turbo setup would be easy to work with here, but I know a lot of guys end up going to a different, larger turbo for max boost; they usually use a Mitsu or another Japanese maker I believe, as they are sturdier and more reliable than the original, worn turbos.

Best,

B.

Fri Apr 20, 2012 9:35 pm

Thanks for the info.

Originally I was going to just use the stock cam, but after talking to Rocky, I believe I will be using his cam that he developed...He said it will work well with both NA and turbocharged engines.

Anybody here running Rocky's cam?

Thanks,

Scott

Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:18 am

I have Rocky's cam in my 2316 with 1.25:1 rockers. It really pulls nice in the 2000 to 5000 range. It has a bit of a flat spot on the bottom, a touch of idle lope, but pulls hard when it ties the knots.

With a better exhaust setup than stock I'm sure it would smooth out a bit and be a nicer setup over all. I'm waiting until my stock exhaust fails before upgrading.

s

Thu May 03, 2012 6:40 pm

A little more cleaning and the block will be ready for paint. The heads are going to get an Alodine treatment just before reassembly

Scott

Thu May 03, 2012 6:42 pm

Steve Arndt wrote: I have Rocky's cam in my 2316 with 1.25:1 rockers. It really pulls nice in the 2000 to 5000 range. It has a bit of a flat spot on the bottom, a touch of idle lope, but pulls hard when it ties the knots.

With a better exhaust setup than stock I'm sure it would smooth out a bit and be a nicer setup over all. I'm waiting until my stock exhaust fails before upgrading.

s

Sounds like a nice setup. I'm pretty certain that I will be getting Rocky's cam. Did you build the lower end yourself?

Thanks,

Scott

Sun May 06, 2012 6:56 am

I had Rocky build the complete long block. The package. We installed it at our shop.

Sun May 06, 2012 9:38 am

I'm looking into adding a turbo to my otherwise completely stock '90 automatic van. I figure a turbo right before the J pipe seems like a simple enough addition and running just a few pounds of boost should work fine on the otherwise stock Fuel Injection system and may be a relatively inexpensive and fun upgrade project.

I am eagerly watching this post to see how much power you end up getting out of the turbo WBXer.