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Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:14 pm

Not cheap!!!.. I bought 4!!!! :shock:

Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:01 pm

bigbulli wrote: 52panelvan wrote: Rich, do you know if he had the right ones in stock or did they use some thing vw that fitted?

Mark he didnt use either option as the asbestos rating on OG is too high and not as effective in stopping, it's a new modern compound, they are cut and fitted to size and glued to the original metal shoes :shock:

52panelvan wrote: Incidently i used those 4 bolt rear cylinders KK do on mine, perfect fit and so far no problems, seemed very good quality.
Cheers

Which body part did you have to sell :lol:

What did they cost?

Dont worry it was fine i sold a small body part, im going to build myself a machine to get rid of the piss i talk.
:wink:
Yeh you are right not cheap, i was going for original brakes so i guess thats what it takes sometimes, but to be honest compared with the total build cost it was a very,very small amount.
That van owes me a lot of shifting stuff but i wouldnt swop the fun of building it and driving it for the world

Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:27 pm

I just bought this brake shoes its writen on the box for all transporter/combi from 50-55.

my question are all the bus from 50-55 use the same brake shoes type/ shape ???
thanks

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:56 pm

Few weeks back i found some close 22mm wheel cylinders, they need drilling and tapping for the 10mm bolts and can only be 2 bolt at best. They are thicker on the base edge to accept the thread. When i get a few minutes i will set them up and put them in my van to trial them and post up how i got on.

Cheers

Sun Feb 22, 2009 5:11 am

52panelvan wrote: Few weeks back i found some close 22mm wheel cylinders, they need drilling and tapping for the 10mm bolts and can only be 2 bolt at best. They are thicker on the base edge to accept the thread. When i get a few minutes i will set them up and put them in my van to trial them and post up how i got on.

Cheers

Hey,how did you get on with these?what car are they ment for?

in the same predicament :roll: think my 22s are shot,not had a proper go yet though but i think id rather have a new replacement anyways and may have to do it to a couple of vans! :wink:

me and my father are going to go have a mooch round our local car spares shop which has alot of old car spares and see what we can find at a decent price an availability

Sun Feb 22, 2009 5:13 am

oh and i know this an old thread,so if i missed somthing from an newer thread let me know :oops:

Mon Feb 23, 2009 2:37 am

Hi,

Sorry - No i never did get round to fitting them to my 52, i will try them for fit on the 51 brakes when i build them and then trial run them after i get back from Hessisch.
I dont know what they were off, trauled through a wheel cylinder catalogue at the local motor factors. They do need drilling for the 2 10mm (4 not possible) and will need a collar making to go round the brake pipe mount.

Incidently if your 22mm are slightly pitted in the centre where the cup seals sit when they are closed, which is were they usually pit (as the wheel cylinder sits closed) then after a gentle honeing they may well give you no problem.

One of my original 22mm from the 52 which was one of the worst i have ever seen i managed to sucessfully reuse (had to as i only found one nos one and couldnt find anything else at that time), it was very pitted badly in the centre , after a hone and some new Type3 seals is has not leaked a drop in 2 years and over 6k miles.

New 19mm ones are available for the rear.
Some people run new 19mm all round, i have never driven one to compare the braking, while it may not be as good it is a solution.

I run single circuit too and check the fluid and brakes often but i would advise you to go duel circuit especially if you do reuse.
Cheers

Mark

Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:58 am

52panelvan wrote: Hi,

Sorry - No i never did get round to fitting them to my 52, i will try them for fit on the 51 brakes when i build them and then trial run them after i get back from Hessisch.
I dont know what they were off, trauled through a wheel cylinder catalogue at the local motor factors. They do need drilling for the 2 10mm (4 not possible) and will need a collar making to go round the brake pipe mount.

Incidently if your 22mm are slightly pitted in the centre where the cup seals sit when they are closed, which is were they usually pit (as the wheel cylinder sits closed) then after a gentle honeing they may well give you no problem.

One of my original 22mm from the 52 which was one of the worst i have ever seen i managed to sucessfully reuse (had to as i only found one nos one and couldnt find anything else at that time), it was very pitted badly in the centre , after a hone and some new Type3 seals is has not leaked a drop in 2 years and over 6k miles.

New 19mm ones are available for the rear.
Some people run new 19mm all round, i have never driven one to compare the braking, while it may not be as good it is a solution.

I run single circuit too and check the fluid and brakes often but i would advise you to go duel circuit especially if you do reuse.
Cheers

Mark

Hey,nah i dont really fancy fitting the 19mm all round,after spending soo much money on finding somthing soo rare im not in hurry to smash it because of crap brakes! :P

my cylinders seem to be sezied solid but like i said ive not tried properly so gonna give em a go! :shock: ,which type3 seal can be fitted?

and yeh i think a duel is deffo the way to goive used them a couple of times before,dont care much for og brakes as long as it stops well!cheers!

Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:19 am

Dont worry about them being siezed, what i use is 2 sockets. one large enough to fit on the end but large enough to allow the piston to come out and drop into and the other end a socket that is a tiny bit smaller than the piston so it can slide up the bore.

Pop it all in a vice length ways. Eg, big socket, 22, small socket.
Turn vice till it starts to move, push the first piston out, remove , then the seals and springs, then the last piston. Never ever fails.

The pistons can usually be cleaned up with scotchbrite no poblems. The bore can be honed and the seals are from 60/70 rear t3 brakes i think i used. they are 22mm and you can swap the whole of the insides.

On that note there are several makes. one make has the springs straight against the inside of the seals!!! The other make has the seals and a cup behind each one with the spring in the middle, almost identicle to the stuff you should find in your old barndoor 22mm. (the only difference is the cup behind the seal is "metal" on barndoor and plastic on the new ones but such is progress).

I know that the ones that Karmann Konnection sell are the better quality choice of the 2 different types of internals. I dont know who sells the other type (feeling its gsf, but dont quote me on that)

One thing to watch is the bleed nipple as they break easily , worth heating/ taking time with them etc if they look brittle/rusty.

Hope this helps but any more questions ask away...

Cheers

Mark

Mon Feb 23, 2009 2:00 pm

22's and late type 3 rear cylinders:

Honed using Mark's honer, then internals popped in with a bit of brake fluid. 8)

Mon Feb 23, 2009 2:03 pm

Oh, the ones above are from GSF, plastic cups inside the rubber seals, just what the doctor ordered! :lol:

Mon Feb 23, 2009 2:30 pm

Yes, I have used Type 3 rebuild kits to rebuild Barndoor brakes.

Mon Feb 23, 2009 3:01 pm

I apolgies Gsf, not them then. Just be carefull someone out there sells them with the internal cups missing.

Any resale value on empty t3 rear cylinders as i have a load :D

Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:20 am

SWEET! :shock: 8) cheers lads,thats the info i need!im gonna get cracking asap!

yeh the nipples are crusty mess :roll: not worried about them tho

im still going to look for a decent cylinder replacement,had simlar probs getting brake parts for a 1965 skoda octavia fixed for my work,you can always get something close to modify an fit,thanks again!

Wed Jul 01, 2009 10:46 pm

Great info in this thread
-anyone have pics handy of original rearmost hard lines? Looking for the routing contour of the lines. I remember there was some conversation about the RGB bolt lock plates and there were great pics of this area but I can't find them now. Thanks
:EDIT:
Found it:
"'Unknown' Barndoor Deluxes" thread, page 33.

Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:25 am

I'm also looking for brake pipe pictures...Routing of front to back pipe on a Deluxe...Position of the brake pipe union at the rear and the routing of the pipes from that union...Hope someone can help

Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:46 am

www.bus-boys.com
Brake Shoe Sets
Sold Only In Sets For Both Wheels, Outright, No Core.
211-609-537 Bus/Pickup 50-53, Front or Rear $45.00 set

211-609-237A Bus/Pickup 54-3/55, Front or Rear NLA

211-609-237B Bus/Pickup 3/55-63, Front $52.70 set

211-609-537B Bus/Pickup 3/55-63, Rear $38.85 set

211-609-237D Bus/Pickup 64-70, Front $55.50 set

211-609-537E Bus/Pickup 64-70, Rear $53.35 set

211-609-537J Bus/Pickup 1971 Only, Rear $50.00 set

211-609-533B Bus/Pickup 72-1/73 (To VIN 2x3 2102 496), Rear $48.15 set

211-609-537N Bus/Pickup 1/73-79, (Fr VIN 2x3 2102 497), Rear $50.75 set

251-698-531 Vanagon 80-91, Rear $84.00 set

701-698-525 Eurovan 92-93, Rear $66.00 set

Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:18 am

Rusting Hulk wrote: I'm also looking for brake pipe pictures...Routing of front to back pipe on a Deluxe...Position of the brake pipe union at the rear and the routing of the pipes from that union...Hope someone can help
On my '55
T-junction

Left side

Right side

Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:41 am

Thanks Everett. I was wondering if the long pipe went through the chassis, as there is a tube at the front crossmember. Obviously from your pics it doesn't.
Thanks again, much appreciated

Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:58 am

Here's the rear right from my '54 Truck:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=654299

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=654300

Unfortunately I don't have any left side photos.