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Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:20 pm

So I don't need to factor in the external filter? And thanks for catching that breather box. Is this better? Any other concerns or comments?

Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:44 pm

I normally run deep sumps 1/2 qt low, using the "Add" mark on the dipstick as my new "FULL" mark, and the end of the dipstick as my "add" mark. You'll get less oil blow running it 1/2 qt "low", which you can only get away with because you have a deep sump. Breather Box orientation is correct in that picture. Don't use screws, use bolts with nylock nuts so they don't vibrate loose. Make sure breather hoses slope down to the engine.

I also run 2 hoses on the 1/2 side, and none on the 3/4 side due to windage, it just works better.

Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:35 pm

Okay guys, I have everything together and ready to go. I have run into a problem though. When I try to start the engine, it turns over extremely slow. I tried it with a different battery that I know is perfectly fine and got the same result. Here is a video of what's happening. Help!

Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:23 pm

I'm new to your thread. but as far as your last comment, i would pull your plugs and see if that helps speed it up. if not than i would lean toward your starter/ bushing. good luck

Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:25 pm

are you getting 12 volts? could be a ground, you could check that, double check all you wiring, sparkplug wires 1432, etc etc

Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:30 pm

Thanks for the replies. I actually did try pulling two of the plugs out but it didn't help at all. As for the starter, it worked perfectly fine when I put the bug in the garage last June or July and I don't think it could have gone bad just sitting around. Am I right in my thinking?

And rammintwins, I haven't checked to see if I'm getting 12 volts at the starter yet. I'll have to do that, thanks.

Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:45 pm

if the starter worked fine was that on an old worn out motor? Fresh motors take a bit more. I went down this road a year ago with a fresh motor. ended up getting a rebuilt starter from an autostick....way better. check the forums

Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:03 am

I dunno, sounds like a dead battery to me. It can still measure 12V (actually 13.05 if fully charged) and not be able to start the car. Has it been charged since you parked the car?

If you aren't driving the car, you should put it on a charger for several hours at least every three months.

Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:47 am

The old motor was pretty worn out. We actually tried rolling it off, which I know probably wasn't a great idea, and that didn't work. As for the battery, I did charge it right before I tried to start it the first time, and then I put in a different battery that I know is good. Both had the same result, which is in the video.

Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:57 pm

It doesn't matter how long you charge a battery once it has died. It can seem to charge, measure a nice voltage, but not be able to deliver the current to drive the starter. Check your other connections, earth straps, battery cables.

Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:00 pm

A bad ground connection will do that all day,, check you conn. from batt to body, body to trany, and double check your starter connections

Tue May 07, 2013 2:19 pm

Alrighty, I know it's been a long time since the last update so here's where we're at now.

We tried another different battery (this time from my dad's truck which is regularly driven) and it turned over beautifully! Now, after carb cleaning, new gas in the tank (the old gas had been sitting for over 6 months. DUR!), a new battery, and a bit of timing adjustment, it cranks right up and runs! However, I am going to have to take it to a guy to get the carbs and timing adjusted right so here's my problem... Does it need to be fully adjusted before performing the break-in procedures as specified by Glenn in the quote below, or does it need to be broken in before it gets tuned up?

The problem with the latter option, in my mind, is that it has to run for quite a while to be adjusted correctly, so I feel like that would defeat the purpose of breaking it in. Help?

Glenn wrote: Run engine at 3000rpm for 15 minutes
dump oil and refill

Leave until cold

adjust valves
run engine again for 15 minutes at 3000rpm
dump oil

leave till cold

adjust valves
drive car in 3rd gear bring it upto 4000rpm, take foot of gas and let it slow to 2000rpm, step on gas and bring it up to 4000rpm, let it slow to 2000rpm. Do this a number of times putting a positive and negative load on the seat the rings.

Then drive as normal.

Wed May 08, 2013 5:12 pm

Any thoughts on this?

Break-in then tune or tune then break-in?

Wed May 15, 2013 3:22 pm

Well We got it running, and it sounds pretty smooth at idle. Whenever I try to drive it and accelerate, it just starts sputtering and won't let me get near putting it in second. It starts sputtering like that maybe around 2500 rpms. I've been working with the carbs trying to get them adjusted right and everything sounds good at idle, but it's not drivable. What's the problem here?

Wed May 15, 2013 3:43 pm

Break it in, if it's close and will run at 2500-3000 then you'll be fine. You don't want it idling at all when it hasn't broken in.

Wed May 15, 2013 3:46 pm

Well I did run it at 2500 rpm for a while and it was pretty smooth when I did. Then I changed the oil and adjusted the valves when it cooled off.

Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:51 am

Now I've got the engine broken in and the carburetors adjusted pretty good with the snail synchrometer. The snail is showing right around 5.5 on all four barrels. The engine idles pretty good, but is still hesitates a lot on acceleration around 2500 rpm. It helps a little to pump the gas pedal a tiny bit whenever it starts hesitating, but it's definitely not drivable right now. Does anybody know what might be causing this hesitation?

Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:45 pm

My brief .02 guess is main circuit jetting. sounds like the idle circuit is good...main comes on around 2500. whats the main jet sizes? maybe go bigger?

Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:55 pm

I believe the mains are 115.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:56 pm

How much bigger should I go?