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Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:35 am

Has anyone seen this before? It's from a 69 bus where everything else was stock, factory original to the T.
I'm guessing it had something to do with the air cleaner.

[img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/

Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:39 am

Sat Sep 20, 2014 1:07 pm

That wire runs to the heat flapper in the air cleaner. As the engine warms up and the air deflectors open up it also closes up the hot air intake on the air cleaner air snorkle allowing cool air intake..

I think this preheat method ran for 2 production yrs.

Mon Jul 27, 2015 5:59 am

I have an engine with FI, but the doghouse was in rough shape, so I replaced it with a 71-74 one. Is there a difference aside from the location of the throttle cable? I'm willing to drill a new hole for that if needed.

I have the old doghouse, so I can easily locate the holes in the same place. If there are greater differences then I'll clean up and repaint the FI doghouse, but I'd rather just use the one I've already painted if it's an option.

Stray

Thu Dec 17, 2015 6:44 pm

FINALLY an aftermarket part thats done right!

Available with or without heat, uses FI style oil cooler port (peanut slot), venturi ring and larger type 4 cooler. Provisions for factory thermostat flaps too!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1872355

They also offer the parts to convert your shroud to type 4 cooler and venturi ring.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1872371

This part utilizes the latest advancements in shroud design by VW for use in their aircooled type 1 all the way to the end of production. The ability to run the type 4 cooler is a real bonus!

Hats off to Concept1 for offering a great product!

Here is the link to the discussion in the forums.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=644297

Sun Jan 17, 2016 3:54 am

I did e-mail the folks making the new fan housing & asked about the fact of no holes for coil install? No biggie unless your installing a Berg style linkage which uses that point to hold the linkage to fan housing. Also there maybe an issue with Berg linkage & this fan housing due to lack of oil bath dimple @ center & top of fan housing. My solution is to riv-nut with a 6mm riv-nut & done deal. You may also have to shorten the berg linkage rod because of no dimple in fan housing. I'm going to buy one because I have the berg conversion kit for T4 cooler & it's no better than I have done for 25 years in doing this mod. I'm going big 86x95 with factory casting heads for maximum amount of cooling along with L&N cylinders. monster motor for my old 67 Ghia.

Fri Oct 28, 2016 1:29 pm

id on these?
i think 36hp ?
For sale as well

Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:58 pm

Porsche 356

Mon Jan 02, 2017 11:33 pm

Saw this today and thought I would add the link here

http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/cooling.htm

By there theory here removing the fresh air duct on the 1/2 side and venting the 3/4 fresh air duct you will equalize the cooling.

They only explain the shroud with the positive scoop, wondering how much difference the negative scoop or peanut slot makes

Sun Jan 29, 2017 6:11 pm

I hope this is the best place to get this information. I thought I read that the fan got wider for the 71+ shroud. Is that correct? Since I didn't see it above, I'm wondering if I'm crossing Type 4 fan information.

Also, where does this piece go? And where can I get one? (I'm changing from a slant to a 71+ - thank you Glenn Ring and others on this site for encouraging the change.)

Sun Jan 29, 2017 6:36 pm

I'm running a low profile brazil fan CB carried for a while. They were shaped like the Puma shrouds, but no outlets for the heater boxes. They were stamped that way, no welding. All the vanes inside, but no provisions for the thermostat. It looks good in my Ghia and cools fine.

Sun Jan 29, 2017 7:47 pm

Jay Laifman wrote: I hope this is the best place to get this information. I thought I read that the fan got wider for the 71+ shroud. Is that correct? Since I didn't see it above, I'm wondering if I'm crossing Type 4 fan information.

Also, where does this piece go? And where can I get one? (I'm changing from a slant to a 71+ - thank you Glenn Ring and others on this site for encouraging the change.)

Yes, when the oil cooler moved to the doghouse in front of the fan shroud the fan was widened to provide more cooling air.
http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/hoover_bits.html

Sun Jan 29, 2017 7:57 pm

Jay Laifman wrote: I read that the fan got wider for the 71+ shroud. Is that correct?

Yes that is correct, later dog house fans measure about 35mm while non dog house were around 29mm.

Jay Laifman wrote: Also, where does this piece go? And where can I get one?

More commonly known as a "Hoover bit", classifieds have them often and a few places are making reproduction versions that work better with aftermarket shrouds. Remember some late FI and Brazilian shrouds do not need the bit as they were corrected by the factory and offer better sealing compared to early shrouds.

Sun Jan 29, 2017 8:19 pm

Just adding some comparison pics of an early shroud that will accept a hoover bit and late shroud that does not.

Fresh air Brazilia shroud.

77-79 VW FI Shroud

Only has a tab for the flap return spring, will NOT accept a hoover bit.

Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:18 pm

That Fanhousing is fantastic love it. For a T-1 car with the T-4 oil cooler housing it is a great part.

T-1 vs T-4, well there sure are alot more T-1s. My point if I guy wanted to convert a T-4 into an Upright conversion like in my Cali Style, the way to go would be use a 36 hp Fanhousing with T-1 doghouse and no heater hose outlets.

The reason a 36 hp fanhousing has to be used is because the carbs won't fit using later model fanhousing, they are too wide. The 36 hp with doghouse works for the T-4 conversion with the T-1 oil cooler because the T-4 runs extremely cool and in a climate like here in NY it is fine. I show how to extend the dog house to take a T-4 cooler ( I have one in my bug ).
It would be perfect if they made a 36hp with T-4 cooler housing. Well maybe they will sell just the extended T-4 oil cooler housing.

Nice to see guys are still doing R and D on such old engine.
.

Mon Jul 03, 2017 3:30 am

There are a few variations to the stale air shrouds

Here is one with the cut out for the larger air cleaner and holes for the HT lead holders but still retains the choke hole

I don't know for certain but think these are late 36hp that would still be running the PCI carb but maybe VW moved to a larger air cleaner?

Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:47 am

AlteWagen wrote: WORK IN PROGRESS!!! PICS ADDED AS FOUND. If you have better pics please post.

63-70 fresh air shroud
Uses upright oil cooler

April 1964 Cooling flaps replace throttle ring
August 1964 Cooling flaps replace throttle ring (Type II)

Great thread!
IIRC, the earlier fresh air fan shrouds that take the ring have different cut outs/ mounting holes than the later one that take the flaps.
Ditto for the cylinder tin.

The pic above shows one that takes the flaps.
There may be an intermediate kind that can go either way as well. There is for the cylinder tin

Tue Oct 09, 2018 2:59 pm

I don't see a painted number on any of the pics above. Can anyone shed some light on this:

Tue Oct 09, 2018 6:40 pm

I believe the numbers indicate factory rebuild.

Wed May 13, 2020 11:37 pm

My engine appears to be built from assorted bits. It has '72 serial nos on the case, but the engine came from a '74, while my chassis is a '73.

I am deleting the heaters, and will change the shroud or bob the heater ducts and plate them over.

I have the fresh-air, doghouse/upright cooler type shroud. I don't know if the hoover bit is missing, but the thermostat and flappers are clearly gone. This is a warm area with hot summers, and so I don't think the missing flappers will matter much.

But I am thinking maybe some internal shroud mods may be worthwhile, if bobbing the two fresh air ducts, and because of the missing flappers. I read that they help proportion the airflow to the heads when open.

I wonder what a stale-air doghouse style shroud looks like inside compared to a fresh-air one? Is there a difference besides the deletion of the visible ducts?