TheSamba.com Forums   Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions -> Using moly torque lube?   View original topic: Using moly torque lube? saw2 Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:27 am When using a moly torque lube do the factory torque settings still apply? I have never used it before. Usually just use 30 wt. oil. I see a lot of guys are using moly lube anymore. I am doing basically a stock rebuild using stock fasteners rods bolts, head studs etc. I just do not want to over torque if moly lube changes torque settings. I see ARP fasteners have different settings for moly lube and oil and provide a chart for their fasteners. If it is a hassle to figure out and change torque settings would it just be better and easier to use the 30 wt. oil? Thanks. RockCrusher Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:39 am I know this will bring fire and brimstone down on my head but I use moly lube on every critical fastener....rods, main case studs, peripheral case studs and bolts and so on and use the factory or manufacturers recommended torque settings and have had zero issues ever. You can argue bolt yields and all kinds of stuff but the difference in oil vs moly torques is so close it isn't worth arguing over. I have NEVER had a fastener come loose either..... :lol: :lol: This has been the case over hundreds and hundreds of engines and transmissions I've built since the early 80's of both V-8 and VW stuff SRP1 Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:00 am ^^^^ What he said. If anything make sure you keep the torque at what the factory spec is, and not over. If anything your pretty assured you have hit the stretch amount with the factory torque spec as the fastener is easier to rotate with the moly lube. modok Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:00 pm yep Dale M. Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:15 pm A opposing view.... Thread lube actually decreases the torque wrench readings (torque applied) to achieve desire torque. The applied torque (fastener stretch) will increase if you try to use standard "DRY" torque values over "LUBRICATED" threads values... Some types of lubes require torque values to be reduced up to 55% to maintain proper bolt stretch of fastener... There is a thread already running some place here that goes into detail of this aspect of torque applied and lubrication of threads and bolt stretch... http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx Dale modok Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:24 pm People that torque dry are building fences or somethin. Torques listed in the service manual are with motor oil Old axioms "Grease is cheaper than steel" "never screw a dry hole" Dale M. Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:26 pm modok wrote: People that torque dry are building fences or somethin. Torques listed in the service manual are with motor oil . "Grease is cheaper than steel" "never screw a dry hole" NO... All manufacturing bolt torque specifications are determined with "dry" threads.... Using a lube and torquing to dry standards means you are torquing bolts beyond design "stress" limits... Also have never seen any specification the bolts be "lubricated" when torquing in any service manual... Dale modok Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:32 pm They are If you didn't know it before, now you do The Germans don't bother telling you not to screw a dry hole, they assume everybody knows that :lol: Every apprentice would be told "don't screw a dry hole" within the first week of training Dale M. Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:47 pm From "HAYNES VW BEETLE & KARMAN GHIA 1954 thru 1979- All Models"... Dale modok Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:49 pm Fair enough I also have charts for both dry and lubed What does the haynes dry chart say for 8x1.25? Dale M. Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:53 pm modok wrote: Fair enough I also have charts for both dry and lubed What does the haynes dry chart say for 8x1.25? Haynes does not have a dry/wet chart... BUT..... http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx Dale modok Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:04 pm there ya go Read your link it says at the bottom "lubricating the bolts is the suggested method" and using your brain, and comparing the values, any monkey can reasonably conclude that the VW specs are with lube Dale M. Sat Dec 17, 2011 2:10 pm Sigh... If this has causes anybody some confusion... I apologies.... Dale RockCrusher Sat Dec 17, 2011 3:15 pm hahah....don't sweat it Dale. When I read your little picture from the haynes book I read that the underlined sentence refers to the preceding sentence about general torque and not the part about specified torques. Their paragraph is a little ambiguous and could be stretched to either point of view. RC mark tucker Sat Dec 17, 2011 3:20 pm dont ya hate it when that hapens.I dont remember ever seeing a dry torque spec on any thing.althou some fastners are coated as in my crower rods oil or moly lube is still recomended.there are somant different variables out there.but you dont need to throw a gaulding nut/bolt/stud into the torque sequence. and if you ever feal a fastner ease up while torqueing it, stop and replace it,it is dead. some fastners can handle more torque,some cant.some rodbolts can handle 5-7lbs more some cant handle 2-3 more.you have to know what you are doing and what you have.arp,sps or mill spec/aerospace componets, should be able to handle the 5-7 ,but stock or these china things be ware of approching +2 lbs. as far as the oe vw rods& rodbolts,I havent a clue I have never used a set of them in anything. and sometimes it,s not the bolt but the nut that is too week,or like the cb uniteck rods I got about 9 years ago, the nuts cracked befor reaching the specified 29 lbs,and the bolts had shotpeen shot between the rod&bolt head.leave nothing to chance. I also have a pile of china rocker nuts that are cracked all to hell, just not heat treated corectly,it now has ace hardware nuts on it,there heavy but strong.(trying to find my stash of titanium 5/16 nuts, but havent got enough yet) Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group