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Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:03 am

I need guidance on how to choose what rings to use on two separate builds.

1) 2180 using AA 92mm cylinders/pistons and supplied rings. I was planning on using total seal rings on the 2nd compression. Should I use the supplied rings for the top and oil or something else? Other components FK8, 42/37 street eliminators, 45 drlas

2) What rings do I use for a mild 1776 daily driver? Mahle forged set is what I have. Stock rings or some other combo ? w100, mild heads, 40 drlas

Are Total Seal rings in the second compression site always good planning ?

Thank you

Sun Feb 05, 2012 12:47 pm

If you want to use total seal buy the whole set, not just the second ring

If this is dusty conditions use chrome top rings, if not use plain cast

Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:08 pm

i have a set of A&A 92s thick wall cylinders i used the stock rings that came in the set from A&A . i used to run total seal rings . but could not see any difference in performance .so i stopped useing total seal rings i like cast rings they seal fast i never had any luck with useing chrome rings dam chrome rings never wanted to seat and would blow oil all over the motor when i worked in a machine shop guys would buy chrome rings for there v8 motors and they never would seat my one friend went 80,000 miles and the chrome rings never seated lol i am sure there will be guys that say they work great . just my two cents spencerfvee 1970t1vert wrote: I need guidance on how to choose what rings to use on two separate builds.

1) 2180 using AA 92mm cylinders/pistons and supplied rings. I was planning on using total seal rings on the 2nd compression. Should I use the supplied rings for the top and oil or something else? Other components FK8, 42/37 street eliminators, 45 drlas

2) What rings do I use for a mild 1776 daily driver? Mahle forged set is what I have. Stock rings or some other combo ? w100, mild heads, 40 drlas

Are Total Seal rings in the second compression site always good planning ?

Thank you

Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:59 pm

the only time I have seen rings not seal is either bored&honed rong or the old C&A zgs rings.
I use total seal on all of my stuff, and try to have them in all motors I build. as for the aa rings I realy dont have a clue, but the cylinders I have hear and have used from them are a bit rough,and needed the tooth knocked off.the aa's I instaled yeater day (1835) were nasty in the cylinders, and needed a good bit of cleaning to get all the honing swarf&shit out of the crosshatch(yes they were new)I dont think thy were ever cleaned, just honed, let drip the pistons&rings instaled. and thats what kills rings&cylinders&pistons& yes motors too.if you think there cleen just take a whith paper towel and wipe them out, push the piston out or till the wrist pin is out of the cylinder and wipe them to see all the shit.then you might do the right thing & dissamble&clean them good.& knock off the tooth while your there.

Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:16 am

Get total seal part number CR9200C
ductile iron, moly faced top ring :D

Do a quick brush-hone of the cylinders to "knock the teeth off"

and now your a mile ahead of the other morons, but don't tell em, just between you and me

Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:40 am

hmmm even on a non vw, when i build, its standard practice to use my dial bore guage to see "true"ness of the bore, and hone to how i like the piston to wall etc

then clean clean clean...

so i do the same on bnew vw liners and pistons

i dunno who lazy dog was to say or suggest slapping them on out of the box...

dont make sense, no excuse just cuz its aircooled,

clean it, check it, and re clean , then assemble

then proceed

Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:29 am

and use good torque plates when honing.it dont take squat to deform these unsupported cylinders.also I usualy hand "hone"(detooth) with a sheet of 400 or 600 wet the entire bore to get the crap off&smooth like they should be,if they need honing I use my sunnen hone with fine stones.

Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:17 am

For the 2180 : it seems that I will pay extra attention to the preparation of the cylinder bore, before I check the end gap of the rings and go with a complete set of the Total Seal rings using a gapless on the second ring.

Now for the 1776 and the Mahle pistons/rings/cylinders. Should I go gapless on the 2nd compression or full set of the stock ?

The replies have saved me time and $$ in the past.
Thank you

Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:16 pm

thats up too your pocket,but if you do the compleate set you will have an extra top ring for the next time you go through the motor if it is needed,thats nice to have.the 2nd ring dont see much wear at all.

Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:21 pm

How well do the Total Seal rings hold up to turbo power?

Mon Feb 06, 2012 5:34 pm

which ones?
iron
ductile
steel?

they make all kinds, but not in all sizes

Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:26 pm

get the ones that is for that app, and dont gap to tight.

Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:00 pm

modok wrote: which ones?
iron
ductile
steel?

they make all kinds, but not in all sizes

I had no idea there were so many types. Which ones would you recommend?

Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:03 pm

The CR series are ductile iron, moly face. These would work well for street turbo
Ductile iron is a step above regular cast because they are more flexible, you can bend them around without breaking, but still iron

Chrome faced steel rings are used in a lot of all out race applications, that have very high cylinder pressure or different fuels. Overkill for most things. The top rings that come with most mahle sets do seem to be chrome steel.
Sometimes hard to seat but they are very durable

Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:39 pm

Deves makes the finest rings you can get for non-turboed applications. I would only consider a total seal ring for boost or nitrous, it's simply not needed.

Chrome faced rings can have a bugger of a time breaking in properly, which is why I like cast iron rings (Deves).

You can also have a tough time getting the rings to seal (break in) if you do not have a thermostat.