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Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:07 pm

baxsie wrote: talljordan wrote: How are you controlling when the washer pump turns on and off? A pull out switch? Or are you using the stock switch mounted in the steering column. Could you post a few more photos? I am considering doing something similar.

That is all the farther we have gone at this point. Very likely we will use a micro relay, which would be triggered by pulling the windshield wiper stalk. Supposedly the newer (73+ ?) windshield wiper switches had a switch that was actuated on pulling them. I twas originally used to momentarily actuate the wipers when washing. I have seen other posts where that switch was used to actuate the pump.

I ended up buying an electric pump and I decided how I want to do it. According to CIP your bug uses the same valve as mine which is push actuated so you could theoretically use the same method.

I will mount a small general purpose tact switch in where the fluid valve used to be. Using a transistor paired with a relay ensures that no real current is travelling through the wire to the switch so I can use ultra thin data wire and there is less risk of over amping it and melting something.

Thu Nov 13, 2014 11:40 pm

Here's my switch to activate my electric washer pump. It fits right in with the stock switches on my 1974 Super Beetle. I got the switch at Radio Shack, drilled a hole in one of my plug-plates, epoxied it in, wired it with a separate 8 amp fuse from the number twelve (ignition-on) fuse location (before the fuse), ran a wire from there to the pictured switch, then a wire to the pump.

Here's a picture of the pump:

The pump is a Trico unit--and it squirts very nicely.

On the washer-tank lid, I merely drilled a small vent hole in it.

Tim

Fri Nov 14, 2014 12:58 am

Just buy a new wiper switch, all the new ones come with a built in electric washer contacts.

As an added bonus they also have the intermittent wiper provision.
see my thread on aussieveedubbers on how to make the 90s Golf/Passat variable delay intermittent relay work, it has the wash/wipe function too.

Sat Jan 03, 2015 10:02 am

The engine compartment is very tight around the throttle bodies. We decided to add the Gab Fab Weber Windows, generally following ap_sand's"Installing GAB-FAB Weber Windows for Carb Access" excellent guide. The deciding factor was when we could not get even the spark plug wire on #3 & #4 on and off without great difficulty . . . much less actually access the spark plug.

First off, since we are doing this with the engine in and fenders on, I was not about to attempt to mess around with rivets. Hopefully Gab Fab will one day make a version that includes the countersinks, adhesive and hardware to bolt it in. For now we got 6mm stainless flat-head allen bolts, and counter-sunk the frame to accept them:

The 1975 Super Beetle 1303 has some beefy reinforcement for the bumpers. The window intersects the reinforcement quite deeply:

Hacking out the hole using an air hacksaw and die grinder with cutoff wheel:

We then used self-taping screws to temporarily secure the frame:

and then trimmed the inside using carbide burr on the die grinder, followed by sanding the inner edge using a flap sander attachment on the drill:

Here you can see how we formed the body metal to follow the heavy Gab-Fab frame, using vice grips. Gab Fab calls for folding a lip of body metal inside the frame. We did not do this because there was no way to fold the thick area at the bottom, and my cuts were not good enough at the top:

To assure that the heavy GabFab frame is able to reinforce the hole in the body as intended, we turned to the modern marvel of 3M VHB tape. This application is practically made for VHB:

and should be stronger than rivets:

Here is what the frame looks like from inside the fender well:

And from inside the engine compartment:

We then shot around the frame with undercoating:

And added undercoating to the outside of the panels:

Inside the panel we used the thin, easily compressed, open-cell weatherstrip to seal between the window and the frame:

Sat Jan 03, 2015 10:59 am

One of my goals of this car is to keep it as safe as possible -- while acknowledging that it is a 40 year old design. Since we have a total of 4 1303 bugs, I thought for sure we could find two working horns, but only one was functional. Since I am kind of a "matching" freak, we purchased two NOS Bosch 335Hz 12v horns. Then of course one was made in Germany, and one in Spain (oh noes -- match fail!), but other than that they are identical. We set them up as a mirror pair and made two 90 degree brackets from angle:

We use the top bumper shock mounting bolt:

We ordered the rubber caps that went over the horn connection, but they split right away when we tried to make the hole a little bigger for the wire jacket. So instead we used the weather-proof hot-melt lined heat shrink to go over the plastic barb on the horn connector:

One on the driver side:

and one on the passenger side:

Since we have a sound level meter, we decided to see what the horns did:

The numbers came our 37db ambient, and 106db horns actuated. Whatever, they are LOUD:

After hearing (with hearing protection) these new horns, I think that the horns age, maybe the contact gets old or the sound is dampened with paint or undercoating. These new ones are definitely louder than the old one we have.

Sat Jan 03, 2015 11:20 am

We have new German CV joints, and the sexy red BugPack boots (hope they are not a mistake!). Black moly grease made for CV joints from NAPA. Re-using original 12-point bolts. Axles and washer things are our original parts, bead blasted and zinc chromate treated:

Installed:

I was a bit surprised that the drive shafts need to be pressed into the CV joints. I definitely do not remember that, but Bently says that is how it is done.

Sat Jan 03, 2015 5:57 pm

The air conditioner compressor (Sanden TRSE09: http://store.sanden.com/index.php/4921.html ) "D" (discharge) connection is on the back of the compressor and interferes with the fan shroud. We made a 3d model of a new fitting that will clear the fan shroud:

Here are the CAD files in case you are interested in that way:
http://baxsie.com/images/forum/bug/white_75/AC_Compressor_Mount/AC_Outlet.zip.zip

We had them built by http://www.shapeways.com in their bronze infused stainless steel. The new adapter is on the top, the original is below:

Here it is mounted to the compressor:

Be aware that the material is brutally hard to tap. I mean it is nasty. We smoothed the sealing surfaces, used green AC o-rings and nylog sealant. We have not tested the system so we do not know if it will actually work. Big darn experiment here. For the main connection. we brazed a standard steel fitting to the 3-printed metal:

The Sanden TRSE09 4921 compressor uses a "peanut" style connection. Through shear luck, we found a vendor at SEMA that had this beautiful little adapter:

In theory it came together well, we shall see if it holds the refrigerant without leaking!

Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:18 pm

We mounted the fuel pump and filter in up under the fuel tank. The pump ended up using the factory mounting bracket, the filter came with its own mounting clamp. Here is a view looking over the rack and pinion:

This is a view from under the rack and pinion:

We fabbed up a bracket to mount the regulator to the firewall, standing off the insulation:

Here is a picture of the regulator mounted:

Sat Jan 03, 2015 10:52 pm

We liked the "monochrome" way the front blinkers turned out. So for the rear tail lights we started with some clear dome style aftermarket housings:

We then added the intensly bright LED pucks from Custom Dynamics:

It is pretty difficult to photograph the tail lights when on, here is a kind of collage of what they kinda look like:

In real life, the colors are completely saturated since they are LEDs.

Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:13 am

You got a lot done over the holidays! Or if you did that all in the last couple days, WOW! :lol:
Always love to see the updates, keep it up!

Mon Jan 05, 2015 2:56 pm

NewTechnicIan wrote: You got a lot done over the holidays! Or if you did that all in the last couple days, WOW! :lol:
Actually most of these recent posts are catch-up of old photos that were waiting to be posted. Still need to put up a couple more posts to get current -- just got way behind on updating the thread.

NewTechnicIan wrote: Always love to see the updates, keep it up!
Thanks for the kind words. Always a boost to hear people are still interested.

Mon Jan 05, 2015 2:58 pm

This is one beautiful car.

Sun Feb 15, 2015 9:34 am

Because of where the compressor and generator are, we did not want to use the CB style / hex bar throttle linkage. Plus that stuff is ugly.

Because I always manage to make the most work of any given situation, I decided to make our own linkage. I'll give a nod to SlowTwitch's SyncLink, indeed the pulleys on the throttle body are from him. Pete is a super nice guy :)

We made a little housing and a pulley to bring the cable from Pete's pulley around to heading to the front:

(ref: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7331826&#7331826 )
Next time, I'll angle these down so they do not extend out so far, we had to nudge the tin out a bit to make clearance for them.

We want cruise control, so I imagined a splitter somewhat like would be used on a motorcycle or ultralight airplane:

(ref: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7243312#7243312 )

Simple in concept: gas pedal and cruise pull from one end of the splitter, the throttle body butterflys pull from the other side. Since it is basically inline, we could run flex from the TB, around the fan shroud, through the tin and this splitter could hang in space above the transmission somewhere.

In real life, the fairly sharp bend from behind the fan shroud through the tin ended up with too much friction :( so we came up with a version that uses pulleys:

We had it made by Shapeways in their brass infused stainless process:

The Shapeways metal is pretty cool in a lot of ways. I will warn that it is a complete bitch to tap. It will dull even a good tap in just a couple of turns. Suposedly you can get a carbide tap that will work. Next time I'll just design the 3d printerd part with little hex recesses to hold standard nuts:

Tried to chase the broken tap out with a carbide bit, only to friction weld then break the carbide tip in the same hole. Plan B called for brazing ears on:

Here is a flipped over view of about where it will end up:

Then flipped over to the final orientation and screwed to the tin:

This placement was not to well thought out. It makes it problematic to put the engine in . . . ended up having to remove the passenger-side heat exchanger to wiggle it all into place :(

There is flex cable from the back of the splitter up to the tube in the chassis where the factory throttle cable exits. We made a little adapter to couple these:

Then trim all the cables and anchor them to the shuttle inside the splitter:

Once it was all installed, it seems to work great. We have not done the tuning, so maybe we will find some trouble then, but visually and as far as feeling it seems to work great.

Sun Feb 15, 2015 10:49 am

For amps, we used a Kenwood X450-4 eXcelon Asymmetrical 4 Channel Power Amplifier for the main speakers, and Kenwood X500-1 eXcelon Mono Digital Power Amplifier for the sub.

First off, we needed some brackets:

Then mounted the amps, you can see the Megasquirt EFI behind it. We plan to install DynaPad on the shelf under the amps:

For the sub, we used a Polk Audio DXi1240DVC 12" subwoofer. We went with the 12" because it looked like it would be pure horror to make it fit:

For the rest of the rear sound, we went with two Polk DXi691 6x9 three way speakers.

We made a cardboard template:

Transferred it to 3/4" MDF and did a test fit with the speaker grilles:

For a little bit of fun, we painted the nearly invisible "POLK" log on the sub to body color:

The MDF is very thin at the sub, so we fashioned a brace to strenghten the front of the shelf. The brace comes up and around the sub, because frankly the 12" is just too damn big for this applicaition:

This brace will also anchor the shelf in, through these brackets:

The Polk / Crutchfield install calls for a 0.88 cubic foot enclosure. We made one from 1/2" MDF, everything glued and stapled or screwed:

Overall shot of shelf, box and brace. After upholstery, we will seal the gaps with some closed cell weatherstrip:

Checking the clearance over the amps and in front of the Megasquirt:

We chamfered some of the corners just to give a little extra room, and made up the wiring harness. The wires all come to one plug, so by removing that plug and the two screws of the brace, the shelf can be removed to service the EFI or amps:

For the front, we used Polk Audio 6 1/2-inch component mobile loudspeaker. These have a separate tweeter and include a separate crossover. We mounted the tweeters high and separated in the front. It is a bit cheesy to use automotive grade seam sealer and plywood, but it seems to be very secure and I think it will work and look awesome once the headliner is installed:

Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:44 am

Impressive!

Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:34 am

The build looks great!!!

You are getting closer.

Tue Feb 24, 2015 5:39 pm

hello guys!

I from brazil, please, you can tell me where I can buy these electric powered rear pop out actuators?

See link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-DUexXMbbE

Wed Feb 25, 2015 10:00 am

leandro.paz wrote: hello guys!
I from brazil, please, you can tell me where I can buy these electric powered rear pop out actuators?

See link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-DUexXMbbE

It is buried in this post: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7093370#7093370

baxsie wrote: It appears that they are from a Mercury Villager or Nissan Quest:
96 97 98 Villager Quest Window Regulator Rear 1/4 Quarter Vent Left Side
But we may have used the arms from a Dodge Caravan.

Looks like it is a Ford part number
Right hand: 5Z-12303A94-AA
Left hand: 5Z-12303A95-AA
There appears to be a cable driven design and a non-cable driven design.

Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:49 pm

NOTE: WE HAVE NOT TESTED THIS CRUISE STUFF !

We are getting to the Cruise Control install. We are using a "Universal Cruise Control System by Rostra":

Manufacturer Page: http://www.rostra.com/universal-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php
Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Rostra-Universal-Electronic-Control-250-1223/dp/B007ZCQD9S

For the Cruise Control, there is an input that will disengage it if the clutch is depressed. This keeps the engine from over-reving if the clutch is pressed in. A light tap on the clutch will also kick the cruise out -- like the brake but without flashing the brake lights.

We used a momentary SPDT pushbutton switch, covered in the sealed, hot-glue heatshrink, attached to a bracket clamped under the engine mounting bolt:

It would have been much easier if I'd have thought about it before the engine and transmission were in!

Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:51 pm

What cruise control product did you use? Sorry if i missed it in the previous pages...!