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  View original topic: Heat Soaked Carbs ?
v68dub Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:47 pm

So I noticed recently in an on going problem with my Weber ICT's. When I shut off my car the carbs get pretty hot to the touch. To my understanding heat soaked carbs after turning off the car is bad correct? Now for my question. Does someone already manufacture manifold spacers or should I just go about buying a taller manifold like a SCAT? I am running a scat push and pull linkage and I'm not sure if there will be any problems with using a taller manifold and setting up my carbs. Any advice appreciated.

luggzbugman Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:16 pm

I have the weber ict's also and I have made me some phenolic spacers and have some thick gaskets to go on either side of the spacer but I had them on one time for about a week then engine messed up have not put them back on yet to really see if they make a difference but the short manifolds are too close in my opinion, have you checked with cb performance they have a manifold/linkage kit that is a nice setup, search the forum for weber ict phenolic spacer and there is a website listed where I got my material to make the spacers I cannot remember the name.

DarthWeber Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:27 am

Well, lets take a step back here. First, are you experiencing a problem with your carbs? Is there difficulty starting the engine once it's at operating temps? Is fuel percolating out of the carbs after shutdown? If the answer is no to any of these questions then I'd say you don't have a problem.

Yes, the carbs will get a bit of heat soak after shutdown, that's perfectly normal but remember, what's hot to us is just normal for the engine. Have you measured the carbs temps with an IR gun? It's kind of like running your engine in "hot" weather, like 100 degrees, that's real hot to us but to the 200 degree engine oil or the 350 degree cylinder head, 100 degree air is cool. Just sayin'. :wink:

Anyway, to your point, if you want to experiment, just add a couple of extra thick fiber carb/manifold gaskets and see if that makes a difference to you. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.

v68dub Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:20 am

Fellow so-cal bugger! I should have posted it up, but after a 30 minute run in 85 degree weather its hard starting as well as the driver side is dribbling fuel for 5 minutes after I shut it off. And when I touch the carbs they are pretty damn hot. I still need to buy a fuel pressure regulator or rotary electric pump because my fuel pressure is still a little high (5psi). These icts are becoming a bit of a headache.

Altema Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:07 am

v68dub wrote: Fellow so-cal bugger! I should have posted it up, but after a 30 minute run in 85 degree weather its hard starting as well as the driver side is dribbling fuel for 5 minutes after I shut it off. And when I touch the carbs they are pretty damn hot. I still need to buy a fuel pressure regulator or rotary electric pump because my fuel pressure is still a little high (5psi). These icts are becoming a bit of a headache.
Is your fuel pump hot as well? You can get fuel percolation in the pump as well which forces fuel past the carb float valve and causes flooding, even when the carb is cool to the touch.

Paul

v68dub Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:19 am

I'll check the fuel pump when I go for a run today and check back with the results.

v68dub Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:57 pm

Altema wrote: v68dub wrote: Fellow so-cal bugger! I should have posted it up, but after a 30 minute run in 85 degree weather its hard starting as well as the driver side is dribbling fuel for 5 minutes after I shut it off. And when I touch the carbs they are pretty damn hot. I still need to buy a fuel pressure regulator or rotary electric pump because my fuel pressure is still a little high (5psi). These icts are becoming a bit of a headache.
Is your fuel pump hot as well? You can get fuel percolation in the pump as well which forces fuel past the carb float valve and causes flooding, even when the carb is cool to the touch.

Paul

I checked the fuel pump after a 35 minute run and it was luke warm. I will write what I have done so far with the carbs.

Put them in an ultrasonic cleaner all disassembled.
Re-built both carbs with the weber/redline kit.
Checked and set floats.
Installed and synced carbs with the scat push and pull linkage.
Checked fuel pressure stated 6.5psi. Put 5 gaskets under the pump. Reads 5 psi now. Is that still too much? I'm broke right now and don't get paid till the 10th so I will have to wait to buy the next parts. I'm thinking a rotary electric fuel pump because I've heard 3.5 psi all day long.

The problem it's having now is, when it's warmed up and I'm cruising it will hesitate when I hit the gas and it feels like it has less power. Almost like its being starved for fu el?

modok Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:27 pm

It will run funny if you leave off the insulators, that is why they have them, you do not have any? Is there a junkyard/vw shop neaby that would have some insulators off type-3s?

5 psi is a bit high but only a little. If the problem seems to be related to how hot the carbs are getting then it probably is true



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