TheSamba.com :: View topic - How to clean oil passages without removing plugs ?

Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:22 am

I'm ready to assemble motor thats tapped for full flow..i really dont wanna mess with the factory plugs..is it safe any way ,can any machine shop do it ????

Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:28 am

Nope gotta mess with the factory plugs, and I'll be the first to say this. YOu'll be glad you pulled them. It takes a whole 10 minutes to get them out and some time spent tapping them all but worth it.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:40 am

O.m.g can I really handle such a task ](*,)

Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:59 am

It takes a whole 10 minutes if you have done it before, and know how to do it right - and have the right tools.
Same goes for tapping for the plugs.
Look someone up who is mechanically inclined with a big toolbox for support.
It can be done wrong, and have been done so many times before.
That said - it has to be done, So read up about it or let someone who knows how do it.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:25 am

Here ya go Jamrock

From the FAQ Stickies/Lubrication/Drilling, Tapping and Full Flow Filter Tech:

http://www.huelsmann.us/bugman/FilterTech.html

Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:26 am

Guys.... He has block already tapped... He is asking about CLEANING it....

My take on cleaning oil passages is several cans of carb cleaner to break bond of crud/chips..... Lots of high pressure water to follow (2700 psi pressure washer - or U-Squirt car wash) ) and followed by lots of high pressure air, and let block "dry out" for 24 hours..... Blow out with air again....

Dale

Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:47 am

Dale M. wrote: Guys.... He has block already tapped... He is asking about CLEANING it....

My take on cleaning oil passages is several cans of carb cleaner to break bond of crud/chips..... Lots of high pressure water to follow (2700 psi pressure washer - or U-Squirt car wash) ) and followed by lots of high pressure air, and let block "dry out" for 24 hours..... Blow out with air again....

Dale

sorry Dale, read again, Tapped for FULL FLOW

1. NO removal of plugs(incomplete clean, does leave some dirt in crevices)
BrakeClean, compressed air, High pressure water, repeat 3-4 times-let final wash be warm water just swirled through

2.Removal of Plugs-preferred, gets clean
Go to Walmart, pick up a pistol and rifle gun cleaning kit(you'll use the brass brushes), brake clean, warm water, paper towels, DON'T tap yet, clean the galleys good, 1 or 2 times, then tap, reason being is the build up of swarf can clog a dirty galley, and makes it a little harder to clean,
clean 3-4 times

total cost for taps and drills(2 - 1/8-NPT, 1 - 1/4-NPT, 1 - 3/8-NPT, 37/64-drill, 7/16-drill, 21/64-drill) about $45 total-expect to pay around $75 if you go to a machine shop-any machine shop should be able to do it, just make sure they know what plugs go where, and the depth that the plugs need to be

Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:23 pm

75smith wrote: Dale M. wrote: Guys.... He has block already tapped... He is asking about CLEANING it....

My take on cleaning oil passages is several cans of carb cleaner to break bond of crud/chips..... Lots of high pressure water to follow (2700 psi pressure washer - or U-Squirt car wash) ) and followed by lots of high pressure air, and let block "dry out" for 24 hours..... Blow out with air again....

Dale

sorry Dale, read again, Tapped for FULL FLOW

1. NO removal of plugs(incomplete clean, does leave some dirt in crevices)
BrakeClean, compressed air, High pressure water, repeat 3-4 times-let final wash be warm water just swirled through

2.Removal of Plugs-preferred, gets clean
Go to Walmart, pick up a pistol and rifle gun cleaning kit(you'll use the brass brushes), brake clean, warm water, paper towels, DON'T tap yet, clean the galleys good, 1 or 2 times, then tap, reason being is the build up of swarf can clog a dirty galley, and makes it a little harder to clean,
clean 3-4 times

total cost for taps and drills(2 - 1/8-NPT, 1 - 1/4-NPT, 1 - 3/8-NPT, 37/64-drill, 7/16-drill, 21/64-drill) about $45 total-expect to pay around $75 if you go to a machine shop-any machine shop should be able to do it, just make sure they know what plugs go where, and the depth that the plugs need to be

I think I already said that..... Failed reading for comprehension in school did you????

Dale

Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:30 pm

I reckon somebody faild ,he says it is taped for ful flow, witch is 1 gally plug not all the ones needed to do a good job of cleaning it.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:34 pm

jamrock volks wrote: I'm ready to assemble motor thats tapped for full flow..i really dont wanna mess with the factory plugs..is it safe any way ,can any machine shop do it ????

No, but he is asking about cleaning the block without removing and tapping the case oil galleys, gotta read the whole post, not the stuff on either side of the periods, filling in as you see fit

so we give him the two options, don't tap, or tap, and give him the two sides of okay there's still some dirt, or I want to eat off that now

Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:36 pm

Dale hit the nail on the head. This isn't really rocket science. Spray some degreaser in the passages and wash it out with water, blow dry with compressed air.

I think the drill/tap thing is for racers who tear down after every race and put in new bearings so they can clean the case completely.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:46 pm

Ian wrote: Dale hit the nail on the head. This isn't really rocket science. Spray some degreaser in the passages and wash it out with water, blow dry with compressed air.

I think the drill/tap thing is for racers who tear down after every race and put in new bearings so they can clean the case completely. if you know a vw racer that does that, they might need a new builder.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:57 pm

I have a HOT jetwasher and I just plum a hose line into the oil sending unit and let the case wash and get the lines cleaned out.

After 15 minutes in hot jetblasted solution running through the case it comes out super clean. The hot soapy water under lots of pressure really gets all the cruds out.

Without taking the plugs out it is very hard to clean it completey by hand. You are going to spend so much in spray cleaners for nothing.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 1:17 pm

mark tucker wrote: I reckon somebody faild ,he says it is taped for ful flow, witch is 1 gally plug not all the ones needed to do a good job of cleaning it.

Even Mark knows what's going on . this place just got drastically lower standards ;)

If you make the CHOICE to NOT remove the plugs there WILL be chucks of shit jammed up into the plug you are choosing not to remove.

Believing in Jesus or a voodoo witch doctor doing a special dance will not clean those passages like taking the time to pull the plugs. tests have been done, and peers have reviewed the information.

Conclusion-there is still going to be crud in there, but, it may be packed in there good enough not to come loose and pose no problem whatsoever.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 3:10 pm

Hi Baked. Do you have any test results and pictures, or preferably video, of the tests where Believing in Jesus or the Voodoo dance were tried? :D

I do believe it is preferable to have the plugs out for a good clean, though many stock engines were rebuilt over the years and ran for many years without. Where you live it might be $75 to have a shop do it, some places it costs a lot more and is cheaper to buy the taps.

I do not believe it is a ten minute job in any case - even for a professional. It is important that the holes are tapped to the correct depth and as this is a tapered thread this needs to be done slowly with regular checking. Crikey! For a home mechanic it can take more than ten minutes to pull the plugs.

Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:10 pm

Can factory plugs be put back in or are the bores messed up pulling the old plugs out? Are they like welch plugs where you just slide them in and tap the center to expand them? Are the factory plugs available?

Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:17 pm

Chuck Lewis wrote: Can factory plugs be put back in or are the bores messed up pulling the old plugs out? Are they like welch plugs where you just slide them in and tap the center to expand them? Are the factory plugs available?

Although I don't suggest it, they can be reused.
Drill a small hole in each one, pull with a slide hammer, clean case real well, clean plugs real well, fill plugs with JB weld and locktite them back in.
Easy peezy

Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:48 pm

Don't do it- you know a bit of that JBweld is going to come loose and find it's way to where it can do the most damage! Murphy guarantees it.

You'd be better off taking a chance with what cleaning you can do with the plugs in.

Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:15 pm

If your gonna do something funky at least do it proper.

If you drill and tap the plugs for an appropriate size of pipe thread, probably 1/8 or 1/16 for the smaller ones, then you can pull them with slide hammer AND re-assemble having a "plug in a plug". The tapered threads will push out and make for more press when tightened. Locktite for sealant of course.

You could pour something like phosphoric acid through the galleys to chemically clean them. Then then rinse/neutralize with water then baking soda solution and blow out. Hard to say if it will be worth the risk/mess, you may eat loose the factory plugs anyhow with that stuff, I'd not try it :shock:

Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:33 pm

I have pulled a factory case plug or two that came out so easily I am pretty certain they would have leaked if they had been left in. That said, I have never seen a factory plug leak. But these came out EASYYY, one of them spun as I was threading the screw into it to pull it. Anyway, since then I told myself that I would always pull the plugs. And, as mentioned, sometimes you pull one, and the backside of the plug is packed full of crap, you just never know. So, for a few hours time it is worth it for me to pull them and tap. If you don't and are careful cleaning it may be ok. Certainly many engines have been built this way, but you have to admit that it is adding an "unknown" to the build. Everything else is squeaky clean right? Why take a chance?