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Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:31 pm

What radiator are you using?

Sun Jul 21, 2013 6:29 pm

We are doing the same swap in our 73 Super. Hardest part so far is finding a suitable candidate for a swap.

Sun Jul 21, 2013 6:31 pm

Im using the radiator and the condenser from the 2002 Forester.

So I got more pictures for you guys. I am having a bit of trouble fitting the condenser in the trunk with the radiator due to the inlet/outlet ports on the sides. They are sticking out too far to nicely place down inside the cut out. I am thinking that I might have to get a slightly smaller condenser otherwise I would have to cut a hole through the bumper bracket in order for it to fit in. I would also need to cut out a chuck of the bumper bracket so it can slide down inside there.
It was a little too hot out for me to continue so I stopped for today.

Here is how high the ac sits without any modification to the area.

Here is the ports I was talking about.

Here is the radiator resting on the lower body. It sits pretty good, just ignore the slight angle lol. It rests completely under the hood contact points.

I can probably use the mount here to make a nice setup :)

Heres the ac I am using.

Oh and I painted this on my spare time just to see what a black coat would look like in the trunk. I like a lot :)

Sun Jul 21, 2013 9:34 pm

Cool. Today i just got done finishing my radiator fans up. I went and got a 1996 mazda miata rad. After i got it i thought subaru radiator would fit it didnt. Different style than yours. I mounted the ac condenser but i had to cutout the bumper brackets like you said, im not running bumpers anyways. I had to make custom brackets for everything but the hardest were cutting and mounting the subi fans to the mazda rad. Are you going to make some sort of duct or air dam for air to enter in and exit?

Mon Jul 22, 2013 6:39 pm

yeah I was a little worried the rad wouldn't fit nicely but it turned out very well. Im planning on using the bumpers (at least temporarily until I find a nice setup that will protect the rad/engine.)

couldn't you run 2 mazda fans with the rad?

Ill have to really measure things out for that condenser before I start cutting away. Right now I'd have to cut a hole in the center of the passenger bumper bracket just to have it sit properly but I would also need to cut and bend the bracket where the ac needs to slide down. Its a bit of a pain

Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:05 pm

I can tell you from experience, the narrower the radiator the easier it will be to make a shroud. My radiator is much like yours. I had to cut a slit in the bumper brackets, and bend the top piece up, and the bottom down, just to get it to clear, I also removed the crash, impact, piece that covers the tunnel up, so I could install the condensor lower in the car, this helped, then I modified it later on to work with a air scoop on the front. I think my radiator is a 28X16 out of a 89 gmc blazer w/a 2.8l

Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:16 pm

BrettBrokaw wrote: yeah I was a little worried the rad wouldn't fit nicely but it turned out very well. Im planning on using the bumpers (at least temporarily until I find a nice setup that will protect the rad/engine.)

couldn't you run 2 mazda fans with the rad?

Ill have to really measure things out for that condenser before I start cutting away. Right now I'd have to cut a hole in the center of the passenger bumper bracket just to have it sit properly but I would also need to cut and bend the bracket where the ac needs to slide down. Its a bit of a pain

Funny thing is I probably coulda got 2 mazda fans for free with the radiator I got for 20 dollars lol, I just wasn't thinking. When I cut my bumper brackets I used my grinder with a cutoff wheel and slit them to the edge and bent it up and cut it off, I cut it about four inches wide.

Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:37 pm

the thing you gotta remember with having the radiator sit up really tall like that is you still need to get rid of the heat from behind the rad.
It has to turn around and go back down and out .

Jak has had really good success for about 7 or so years now with his EJ20turbo bug with the radiator leaned over on an angle.

My first rad sat up pretty tall like that and worked ok till I swapped with the nice low rad to keep it under the trunk floor.

Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:54 pm

Joel wrote: the thing you gotta remember with having the radiator sit up really tall like that is you still need to get rid of the heat from behind the rad.
It has to turn around and go back down and out .

Jak has had really good success for about 7 or so years now with his EJ20turbo bug with the radiator leaned over on an angle.

My first rad sat up pretty tall like that and worked ok till I swapped with the nice low rad to keep it under the trunk floor.

Did you remove the crumple zone piece of metal thing to get it to sit low? haha

Tue Jul 23, 2013 6:31 pm

yeah I believe my rad is about 28" wide ad it fits in there fine just need to work on getting the heat out like Joel said. I could easily cut the bumper mounts and bend them etc but Id need to have the bumper for protecting the rad. Without the impact piece and the bumper there isnt much there to keep it from being destroyed in an accident.

I will try to get a better angle with the rad and AC (assuming it will fit) then Ill be set on that and I just have to finish wires. I might have help this weekend to get that done.

Worst case scenario I need to go to a pick-n-pull for a smaller rad and AC. I might be able to get one cheap from a family member.

Any suggestions on setting up the vents to run ac? I have all the original vents except the heater tubes under the rear seat (using those to run the wires along the underside of the body.)
I know that the ac runs through to the fan and then into the cabin but if Im not using that fan then how would I get that system set up?

Wed Jul 24, 2013 8:50 pm

Anthonyisawsome wrote: Did you remove the crumple zone piece of metal thing to get it to sit low? haha

Yea, the early Supers didnt even have them, just a plate to block off the shifter access hole like a standard
I just cut that piece of of the original deformation plate to act as a block off

Down nice and low in the air flow means the fans pretty much never need to come on unless I stop moving for several minutes

Re. the A/C condenser, if you are thinking of fitting A/C you are better off buying a new universal condenser as they have the correct flare nut fittings for flex hose.

OEM condensers have O-ring fittings designed for matching up to the aluminium hard lines that front engine cars have which makes it hard to adapt withough soldering in the correct fittings.

Plus they are fairly cheap and brand new so not all bashed up, and you can buy one to the size you want, mine is 20x12 and 7/8" thick from memory.
Been more than adequate in 110f aussie summers.

Thu Jul 25, 2013 7:07 am

Joel did you raise your control arm bushings? It looks like there are two sets of holes the eccentric bolt could go through.

I have the front end of mine up on jack stands about the tear the front end out AGAIN. The U channel that the control arm is in has gotten bent and laying over the control arm bushing causing an alignment problem. I can't get the full degree of +camber I need.
The control arm bushings hang so low they are getting beat up pretty bad. To the point where I feel the need to fabricate a guard to protect them. I'll probably weld something on the top hat to take the beating. Like a mini-skid plate.

Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:02 pm

The 74 onwards 2 bolt Supers have 2 sets of slots for the control arms.

Have you got one of Toplines camber plus kits?
They give a couple of extra degrees adjustment.
\
I've thought about doing the same for a bash plate, its a pretty flimsy area.
I guess VW didn't plan on us slamming these cars 4 decades later :lol:

Thu Jul 25, 2013 7:32 pm

Mike at RMW said he will start on the speed sensors next week.

I thought I'd see if anyone else is interested.

How is the wiring going?

I think my radiator is out of an 03 Celica??

Jeff

Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:20 pm

Sweet, cant wait for the speed sensor order to get going :)

The wiring is going lol I might have some help tomorrow to get it all done also I might get the o2 sensor in as well. Those would be the last 2 things to add to the loom. I took a break for a few weeks to focus on the rad.
What would be the smallest rad I could get that can handle the required amount of coolant?

Fri Jul 26, 2013 6:47 pm

I wouldnt go any smaller than that one I have which is 10"x22"

Its double row though which is why its so small.

Mk1 VWs like Golf/Rabbit/scirroco etc work well.
Similar size but abit taller.

If I ever need to replace mine I'll get one of the alumnium racing ones

Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:03 am

Does anyone have a good diagram of the wiring? I found a pinout that works for the ECU but all I have for wiring is the silly Haynes manual....
I went through and took out the wires that were unused from the ECU

The green is what is left on my ECU and the grey-ish is what isnt there. Ignore the yellow bits lol

Here is the rest of that pinout

Sun Aug 04, 2013 5:20 pm

What year is your ECU? Check out these "vacation pix" they may have what you need. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation BrettBrokaw wrote: Does anyone have a good diagram of the wiring? I found a pinout that works for the ECU but all I have for wiring is the silly Haynes manual....
I went through and took out the wires that were unused from the ECU

The green is what is left on my ECU and the grey-ish is what isnt there. Ignore the yellow bits lol

Here is the rest of that pinout

Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:12 pm

Im not sure what year the ECU is but it was in the 2002 forester. The pinout has the same number of input/output slots and has the 3 main connectors. From what I looked at on my ECU the wires seem to be the same for power and some other wires.

Mon Aug 05, 2013 5:10 am

Did you check out my link? BrettBrokaw wrote: Im not sure what year the ECU is but it was in the 2002 forester. The pinout has the same number of input/output slots and has the 3 main connectors. From what I looked at on my ECU the wires seem to be the same for power and some other wires.