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Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:46 pm

Well crap! I see what you are saying now:(
Is it hard to find that U shaped piece?

This is the piece I would need isn't it?
http://www.busdepot.com/021251531

Man this is getting expensive:(

Tue Apr 23, 2013 3:40 pm

you are looking at that J bend, the cat, the muffler, the tail pipe and all the gaskets if you want a stock system.

Tue Apr 23, 2013 4:00 pm

Thanks. I'll probably have to go with buying a gas tester for now but I do want a stock exhaust setup but that will have to wait till the funds are available.

I can get this tester for $230, do you see any issues with it?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XF1VW6

Tue Apr 23, 2013 4:17 pm

there is a LM-1 for sale up in El Dorado Hills new. $250. You will also need to buy a tail pipe pick up off fleabay or somewhere. Don't start monkeying with the AFM without knowing exactly what you are doing. Once you get it fine tuned the LM-1 will sit in the closet most of time like mine does.

Steve

Tue Apr 23, 2013 5:12 pm

Was there something wrong with the one I posted (I found it for $200 shipped)? The closer I get to $300 then I might as well upgrade all the exhaust components.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 11:45 am

SGKent wrote:

I will be glad to help him but he has to have a spot I can place the O2 sensor and a power source (12V cigarette lighter plug in) that I can use OR the clamp and the power source. If he starts monkeying with it then I lose the baseline he already has and I'll not waste further time on this.

Just re reading your post again. I have an AC to 12v power supply but what are these clamps you are talking about? What are they and where can I get them?

Wed Apr 24, 2013 11:51 am

ivwshane wrote: SGKent wrote:

I will be glad to help him but he has to have a spot I can place the O2 sensor and a power source (12V cigarette lighter plug in) that I can use OR the clamp and the power source. If he starts monkeying with it then I lose the baseline he already has and I'll not waste further time on this.

Just re reading your post again. I have an AC to 12v power supply but what are these clamps you are talking about? What are they and where can I get them?

The LM-1 unit plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. You would need to add it up near the front seat. I added one on an L-bracket on the air vent metal. When it goes for a test drive you can't be dragging an electrical supply along. I imagine any LM-1 is fine although the default cables only reach the middle seat. I have special extensions I bought so mine reaches the front seat.

This is the innovate clamp. Someday I'll get one but right now don't have one and money is too tight to buy one. They are about $60 - $90

Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:07 pm

SGKent wrote: ivwshane wrote: SGKent wrote:

I will be glad to help him but he has to have a spot I can place the O2 sensor and a power source (12V cigarette lighter plug in) that I can use OR the clamp and the power source. If he starts monkeying with it then I lose the baseline he already has and I'll not waste further time on this.

Just re reading your post again. I have an AC to 12v power supply but what are these clamps you are talking about? What are they and where can I get them?

The LM-1 unit plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. You would need to add it up near the front seat. I added one on an L-bracket on the air vent metal. When it goes for a test drive you can't be dragging an electrical supply along. I imagine any LM-1 is fine although the default cables only reach the middle seat. I have special extensions I bought so mine reaches the front seat.

This is the innovate clamp. Someday I'll get one but right now don't have one and money is too tight to buy one. They are about $60 - $90

Well I'd rather buy that for you if its worth your time than trying to find a shop with a sniffer or buy $300+ in parts right now. What's the part number for the clamp? 3728?

So this lm-1 would need to be used while driving around too? I thought all the measurements were done at idle?

As for the power source...I'm sure there is an extension I could buy or build.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 2:49 pm

theres no bung already in your J pipe?? sure looks like a bung to me.. maybe not one that will fit a oxygen sensor but would fit a exhaust sniffer from a shop.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 2:58 pm

curtis4085 wrote: theres no bung already in your J pipe?? sure looks like a bung to me.. maybe not one that will fit a oxygen sensor but would fit a exhaust sniffer from a shop.

The problem is finding a shop with a sniffer that I can use. So far I haven't found one.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 3:08 pm

ivwshane wrote: curtis4085 wrote: theres no bung already in your J pipe?? sure looks like a bung to me.. maybe not one that will fit a oxygen sensor but would fit a exhaust sniffer from a shop.

The problem is finding a shop with a sniffer that I can use. So far I haven't found one.

For real. There emission tune shops all over LA area. Sacramento doesn't have smog shops?? Where you can go pretest? See them everywhere when Im in Cali. Seems like any certified ase shop would have this as well as any good VW mechanic.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 3:28 pm

+19169205263 moder classic auto repair. Sacramento.

They have sniffer. 1/2 minimum charge $45. Cheapest I could find. Hey if it takes 5 minutes have them spend the remaining 25 adjusting timing or checkIng your radiator ;)

Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:22 pm

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Normally I don't lend out tools due to having been thru the sorry I broke it thing too many times. There is also a time factor where lately my days need to be 3x as long to get things done that are not getting done. There is also the threat always when working on someone's car that something breaks and one gets blamed. Or with smog, there might be some weird smog law that one could break tweaking someone's car without a smog license. All that said, in order to use a LM-1 you either need a bung for an O2 sensor or something that reads the tailpipe. The cap on the factory tube won't hold an O2 sensor and it is unlikely to even come off with all the rust.

I don't mind helping you but in order to even hook up my LM-1 you have to have a cigarette lighter installed and a spot for an O2 sensor or that special clamp. To install a O2 pickup spot you have to select a spot where the sensor will fit without hitting things, drill a hole of a certain size then have the bung welded on. It gets capped when not in use. To use the clamp you have to buy one. I used a cigarette lighter on an L bracket from one of the FLAPS and mounted it on the metal vent system under the dash. We used it to charge cell phones etc. Some folks put in in the dash but I didn't want the extra hole.

To adjust the AFM you first set the idle CO with a screw. Once it is set you read it at RPM. If it is good then the CAT is bad. Most likely it will be rich. So before tweaking anything one want to check the TSII for correct resistance and be sure the connector is good and that it is screwed in correctly. If that is true then the fuel pressure should be checked. If that is Ok then you have to make a decision on the CSV. They can leak but removing them in the car can be a pain I have heard, To tweak the AFM isn't too hard and it is easy to guide someone but I can't do it for you cause of the smog laws I think. On the ones I have done for myself, I set the door weight to open the door then adjust the slider to the mixture I want. Then I drive the bus on a preset route and watch the results. If I like what I see a special RTV is used to seal the lid back up as the fumes from regular RTV eats the inside of the AFM up slowly. Also the timing has to be checked to be sure it is working right.

My best suggestion is to have Colin do it when he is here in Sacramento but that isn't until around July 1 http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=11227

Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:46 pm

SGKent wrote: Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Normally I don't lend out tools due to having been thru the sorry I broke it thing too many times. There is also a time factor where lately my days need to be 3x as long to get things done that are not getting done. There is also the threat always when working on someone's car that something breaks and one gets blamed. Or with smog, there might be some weird smog law that one could break tweaking someone's car without a smog license. All that said, in order to use a LM-1 you either need a bung for an O2 sensor or something that reads the tailpipe. The cap on the factory tube won't hold an O2 sensor and it is unlikely to even come off with all the rust.

I don't mind helping you but in order to even hook up my LM-1 you have to have a cigarette lighter installed and a spot for an O2 sensor or that special clamp. To install a O2 pickup spot you have to select a spot where the sensor will fit without hitting things, drill a hole of a certain size then have the bung welded on. It gets capped when not in use. To use the clamp you have to buy one. I used a cigarette lighter on an L bracket from one of the FLAPS and mounted it on the metal vent system under the dash. We used it to charge cell phones etc. Some folks put in in the dash but I didn't want the extra hole.

To adjust the AFM you first set the idle CO with a screw. Once it is set you read it at RPM. If it is good then the CAT is bad. Most likely it will be rich. So before tweaking anything one want to check the TSII for correct resistance and be sure the connector is good and that it is screwed in correctly. If that is true then the fuel pressure should be checked. If that is Ok then you have to make a decision on the CSV. They can leak but removing them in the car can be a pain I have heard, To tweak the AFM isn't too hard and it is easy to guide someone but I can't do it for you cause of the smog laws I think. On the ones I have done for myself, I set the door weight to open the door then adjust the slider to the mixture I want. Then I drive the bus on a preset route and watch the results. If I like what I see a special RTV is used to seal the lid back up as the fumes from regular RTV eats the inside of the AFM up slowly. Also the timing has to be checked to be sure it is working right.

My best suggestion is to have Colin do it when he is here in Sacramento but that isn't until around July 1 http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=11227

No problem I understand. If I've been burned once I'm most likely not going to do the same thing again. You don't know me and I don't have a long post history so I can understand where you are coming from.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:50 pm

curtis4085 wrote: +19169205263 moder classic auto repair. Sacramento.

They have sniffer. 1/2 minimum charge $45. Cheapest I could find. Hey if it takes 5 minutes have them spend the remaining 25 adjusting timing or checkIng your radiator ;)

Thanks! I'm actually outside of sac but that place is only about 30 minutes away so I will give them a call.

My concern is that when dealing with non air cooled specialists, do they know what they are doing?
If I go to this shop what exactly should I tell them? Set the CO to 1 at idle, have them smog me and then after it passes have them change it back to 1.4? My idle should be at 900rpm when the engine is fully warm right?

Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:15 pm

ivwshane wrote: curtis4085 wrote: +19169205263 moder classic auto repair. Sacramento.

They have sniffer. 1/2 minimum charge $45. Cheapest I could find. Hey if it takes 5 minutes have them spend the remaining 25 adjusting timing or checkIng your radiator ;)

Thanks! I'm actually outside of sac but that place is only about 30 minutes away so I will give them a call.

My concern is that when dealing with non air cooled specialists, do they know what they are doing?
If I go to this shop what exactly should I tell them? Set the CO to 1 at idle, have them smog me and then after it passes have them change it back to 1.4? My idle should be at 900rpm when the engine is fully warm right?

Manual is 875 +or- 75 rpm

These guys have smoged aircooleds so they said. I wouldnt let them touch the AFM insides. And you can show them where the idle adjust screw is. If you set idle to 1 co after the cat at idle they should be able to test it to see if you will pass. Make sure your timing and idle are set prior to going. ExPlain your goals- passing smog. And what you think is needed. Sniffing the exhaust and turn idle adjust screw CCW more than likely to dial into 1.0 CO at idle. Have them check to make sure it with pass at rpm. Give them your budget 1/2 work. And pray.

I personally would use the testing station itself. Here you can test as many times need in 15 days. Heat bus up to operating temp 180degrees or 15-20 minute drive. Check timing, idle. Turn AFM screw ccw 1/2 turn and run it threw testing station. Do this till you dial it in to pass. Remember how many turns on your adjustment. Do not leave there till you pass. Make sure nOt to over due it. Bently calls for .05-1.5 pre-ca at idle. I like mine rich 1.5 CO pre cat. THIS READING post cat is 1.0 CO this is a brand new engine mind you.

You want to make sure your dialed in as rich is better than lean. All my advice is just that. I'm no mechanic and am still learning myself but having just did this last week after a fail myself it was an easy fix. I set it myself but still had my mechanic recheck my settings.

The suggestion for Colin to visit is good money spent. I'm on his schedule for a visit this summer!!! My 79 running awesome but I'm sure I'm missing something. That dude from what I hear is the bus whisperer. :D

Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:27 pm

Thanks for the info! What does Colin charge?

Also I thought if you failed the test twice they consider you a gross polluter and you have to get tested every year? Is that not true? That's the only reason why I haven't gone to a test only place and have been spending a buttload on pre tests! But if that's not the case...I'm going to punch myself and then do what you did.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:33 pm

ivwshane wrote: Thanks for the info! What does Colin charge?

Also I thought if you failed the test twice they consider you a gross polluter and you have to get tested every year? Is that not true? That's the only reason why I haven't gone to a test only place and have been spending a buttload on pre tests! But if that's not the case...I'm going to punch myself and then do what you did.

Umm this could be the case. I do not live in Cali.

Have you been messing around with all your adjustments and running threw pretest shops? If so make sure you recheck everything starting with valve adjustment( if your solid lifters) dwell, timing, then check idle rpm.

You don't want to be labeled as gross;)
Colin $480 for 9 hrs minuim of 9hrs. Deposit $240 needed before may something.

Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:29 pm

I need to stop this now that I have had dinner and my mind is functioning again. The clamp will not work as it is downstream from the cat. You will have to weld a bung in. That is how it will have to be. If they have a regular tail pipe sniffer you can put some penetrating oil on the cap on the bottom and see if you can get it loose. They can insert the sniffer there and set the idle CO but I don't think that will be enough to solve your issue.

That or get a new exhaust and cat then drop by some weekend or get your own LM-1

Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:46 pm

SGKent wrote: I need to stop this now that I have had dinner and my mind is functioning again. The clamp will not work as it is downstream from the cat. You will have to weld a bung in. That is how it will have to be. If they have a regular tail pipe sniffer you can put some penetrating oil on the cap on the bottom and see if you can get it loose. They can insert the sniffer there and set the idle CO but I don't think that will be enough to solve your issue.

That or get a new exhaust and cat then drop by some weekend or get your own LM-1

I was wondering why one would need access before the cat and the other method didn't.

It sounds like the best option is to take it to a test center and just adjust and re test. I can change it back to pre adjustment settings to keep things safe/rich. And when money gets flowing again I'm just going to upgrade the exhaust and then I might stop by;)