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Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:57 am

That crossover looks salvageable to me, the muffler likely won't survive grinding off the welds but it looks like the inlet is done for anyways. One must die to save the other, in a worst case desert island scenario you could patch the muff after you got it cut off.

Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:56 pm

Update:

The parts are starting to come in. I have the GeeBee hoses as well as the vacuum and compression testers. The LM-2 came in today and I really want to play with it.

One thing I'd like to do is find out what my idle RPMs are. I bought the basic kit and I've read various things that say I can check RPMs and others talking about an induction clamp accessory being needed.

Does anyone know how I would check my RPMs with this device in terms of how to physically do it?

Should I make a separate thread for this? If so what forum should I use?

Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:00 pm

ivwshane wrote: Update:

The parts are starting to come in. I have the GeeBee hoses as well as the vacuum and compression testers. The LM-2 came in today and I really want to play with it.

One thing I'd like to do is find out what my idle RPMs are. I bought the basic kit and I've read various things that say I can check RPMs and others talking about an induction clamp accessory being needed.

Does anyone know how I would check my RPMs with this device in terms of how to physically do it?

Should I make a separate thread for this? If so what forum should I use?

buy there analog attachment if the kit doesnt have it already.. i bought a whole kit and it came with it... then connect it to the device run some extra wire back to the coil and bingo RPM.... oh and you have to read the instructions as you have to dial the meter in to the engine to get correct reading... the wankers that sell the product are zero help, just FYI..

Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:07 pm

curtis4085 wrote: ivwshane wrote: Update:

The parts are starting to come in. I have the GeeBee hoses as well as the vacuum and compression testers. The LM-2 came in today and I really want to play with it.

One thing I'd like to do is find out what my idle RPMs are. I bought the basic kit and I've read various things that say I can check RPMs and others talking about an induction clamp accessory being needed.

Does anyone know how I would check my RPMs with this device in terms of how to physically do it?

Should I make a separate thread for this? If so what forum should I use?

buy there analog attachment if the kit doesnt have it already.. i bought a whole kit and it came with it... then connect it to the device run some extra wire back to the coil and bingo RPM.... oh and you have to read the instructions as you have to dial the meter in to the engine to get correct reading... the wankers that sell the product are zero help, just FYI..

Keep in mind I am a noob and jumping head first into this. That being said, it looks like the analog cable has several wires in it, what wire did you use to connect to the coil and where on the coil did you connect it (did you attach a spade connector to it)?

Thanks for your help!

Edit:

Ok in the manual it says black/white + blue- cables are used for RPM, I assume that means I hook them up to their respective sides of the coil?

Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:10 pm

ivwshane wrote: curtis4085 wrote: ivwshane wrote: Update:

The parts are starting to come in. I have the GeeBee hoses as well as the vacuum and compression testers. The LM-2 came in today and I really want to play with it.

One thing I'd like to do is find out what my idle RPMs are. I bought the basic kit and I've read various things that say I can check RPMs and others talking about an induction clamp accessory being needed.

Does anyone know how I would check my RPMs with this device in terms of how to physically do it?

Should I make a separate thread for this? If so what forum should I use?

buy there analog attachment if the kit doesnt have it already.. i bought a whole kit and it came with it... then connect it to the device run some extra wire back to the coil and bingo RPM.... oh and you have to read the instructions as you have to dial the meter in to the engine to get correct reading... the wankers that sell the product are zero help, just FYI..

Keep in mind I am a noob and jumping head first into this. That being said, it looks like the analog cable has several wires in it, what wire did you use to connect to the coil and where on the coil did you connect it (did you attach a spade connector to it)?

Thanks for your help!

Edit:

Ok in the manual it says black/white + blue- cables are used for RPM, I assume that means I hook them up to their respective sides of the coil?

I would have to check. I beleive the blk/wht wire. Manual says. And then hook it up to the same terminal that you hook your timing light on.

Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:39 pm

not meaning disrespect. Read the instructions at the innovate site. On mine I use an inductive pickup. Keep in mind that the device is not a tachometer or dwell meter. What you want is one of these or equal:

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tachometer-Vol...tachometer

Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:19 pm

SGKent wrote: not meaning disrespect. Read the instructions at the innovate site. On mine I use an inductive pickup. Keep in mind that the device is not a tachometer or dwell meter. What you want is one of these or equal:

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tachometer-Vol...tachometer

I don't understand, what's the difference between it telling me my RPMs and a tach? Can you not view the RPMs in real time?

Wed May 01, 2013 6:05 am

ivwshane wrote: SGKent wrote: not meaning disrespect. Read the instructions at the innovate site. On mine I use an inductive pickup. Keep in mind that the device is not a tachometer or dwell meter. What you want is one of these or equal:

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tachometer-Vol...tachometer

I don't understand, what's the difference between it telling me my RPMs and a tach? Can you not view the RPMs in real time?

My LM-1 is not stable enough on the RPM input to use it a as tachometer to set idle speed. If yours is, awesome. I have to use the smoothing tool in the software to get rid of the constant spikes. I use points and not an electronic ignition so I also need dwell setting.

Thu May 02, 2013 5:37 pm

I got my dansk Y pipe in today, it has a bung on it but it's way too small for the LM2 sensor or O2 sensor.

Just an FYI. That and the fact that the bung is on the bottom of the pipe means it wouldn't have been a good idea to use it even if it did fit. Everything that I have read says that condensation build up could damage the sensor and to only use a port located at the top between 10-2.

Thu May 02, 2013 8:04 pm

ivwshane wrote: I got my dansk Y pipe in today, it has a bung on it but it's way too small for the LM2 sensor or O2 sensor.

Just an FYI. That and the fact that the bung is on the bottom of the pipe means it wouldn't have been a good idea to use it even if it did fit. Everything that I have read says that condensation build up could damage the sensor and to only use a port located at the top between 10-2.

the cat will have the correct mount. I showed you the photo already.

Thu May 02, 2013 8:08 pm

SGKent wrote: ivwshane wrote: I got my dansk Y pipe in today, it has a bung on it but it's way too small for the LM2 sensor or O2 sensor.

Just an FYI. That and the fact that the bung is on the bottom of the pipe means it wouldn't have been a good idea to use it even if it did fit. Everything that I have read says that condensation build up could damage the sensor and to only use a port located at the top between 10-2.

the cat will have the correct mount. I showed you the photo already.

I know. My post was to inform others that might have been wondering if that port would work and I was just confirming that it didn't.

Thu May 02, 2013 8:19 pm

ivwshane wrote: SGKent wrote: ivwshane wrote: I got my dansk Y pipe in today, it has a bung on it but it's way too small for the LM2 sensor or O2 sensor.

Just an FYI. That and the fact that the bung is on the bottom of the pipe means it wouldn't have been a good idea to use it even if it did fit. Everything that I have read says that condensation build up could damage the sensor and to only use a port located at the top between 10-2.

the cat will have the correct mount. I showed you the photo already.

I know. My post was to inform others that might have been wondering if that port would work and I was just confirming that it didn't.

Oh.

Thu May 02, 2013 8:36 pm

That bung is for gas analyzer not O2 sensor. So If and when you where at the smog shop you could read your CO per-CAT

Fri May 03, 2013 11:04 am

Nope the factory port would have been for a specific dealer setup to use.

The one currently on your bus looks like it might be a modern weld in bung for an O2 sensor.

Mon May 06, 2013 4:52 pm

Another update:

I got the analog cable for the lm-2 and did an idle RPM check. The bus was cold and the idle kept increasing until it leveled off at about 1540. I checked for vacuum leaks on a few of the lines (I'm still waiting for my replacement kit to come in) and no signs of vacuum leaks. I decided to adjust the idle speed and turned it down until it hovered between 870-880.

I don't know for sure what loose valves sound like but if I had to guess I would say I need to adjust them (I'm waiting for the gaskets from germansupply).

I also got my VHT flameproof paint in today and I plan on painting the new parts (I've already stripped the primer from the new tail pipe and F(Y) pipe).
Would you guys paint the CAT?

Mon May 06, 2013 5:19 pm

ivwshane wrote: Another update:

I got the analog cable for the lm-2 and did an idle RPM check. The bus was cold and the idle kept increasing until it leveled off at about 1540. I checked for vacuum leaks on a few of the lines (I'm still waiting for my replacement kit to come in) and no signs of vacuum leaks. I decided to adjust the idle speed and turned it down until it hovered between 870-880.

I don't know for sure what loose valves sound like but if I had to guess I would say I need to adjust them (I'm waiting for the gaskets from germansupply).

I also got my VHT flameproof paint in today and I plan on painting the new parts (I've already stripped the primer from the new tail pipe and F(Y) pipe).
Would you guys paint the CAT?

I ceramic chromed my system. Some paint some leae alone. It's stainless Steel so should hold up.

Mon May 06, 2013 5:57 pm

curtis4085 wrote: ivwshane wrote: Another update:

I got the analog cable for the lm-2 and did an idle RPM check. The bus was cold and the idle kept increasing until it leveled off at about 1540. I checked for vacuum leaks on a few of the lines (I'm still waiting for my replacement kit to come in) and no signs of vacuum leaks. I decided to adjust the idle speed and turned it down until it hovered between 870-880.

I don't know for sure what loose valves sound like but if I had to guess I would say I need to adjust them (I'm waiting for the gaskets from germansupply).

I also got my VHT flameproof paint in today and I plan on painting the new parts (I've already stripped the primer from the new tail pipe and F(Y) pipe).
Would you guys paint the CAT?

I ceramic chromed my system. Some paint some leae alone. It's stainless Steel so should hold up.

Ceramic would be nice but it's out of my budget and time line plus it means someone else would be doing it instead of me. I'm in it now and I'm going to finish it myself.

Mon May 06, 2013 8:42 pm

it is stainless - you can leave it alone. Besides, a new cat sticks out like a sore thumb. You will be Ok cause yours is a CARB-II cat but someone with an older cat who polishes or plates it may end up being accused of installing a new non-CARB-II cat. The CHP are trained to look for stiff like that as well as the CARB-II emblem on it which has to be visible from 5' away.

Mon May 06, 2013 8:55 pm

SGKent wrote: it is stainless - you can leave it alone. Besides, a new cat sticks out like a sore thumb. You will be Ok cause yours is a CARB-II cat but someone with an older cat who polishes or plates it may end up being accused of installing a new non-CARB-II cat. The CHP are trained to look for stiff like that as well as the CARB-II emblem on it which has to be visible from 5' away.

Good point. I guess my main concern was keeping it protected but stainless steal does a pretty good job.

I just hope I can get my crossover pipe off cleanly so I can re use it.

Fri May 10, 2013 2:59 pm

Update:

I got my CAT in today:D but I'm still waiting on my order from germansupply (Scott says it should be shipped on Monday:().

A quick question regarding the bung plug. Do I need a washer on it or any other thread sealant or thread lock? I'm using the plug that came with my LM-2 but I like the one Steve uses with the Allen head option. Are those carried by any FLAPS? Are O2 plug holes/threads all the same size?

Edited to add info for me for future reference:

From VHT for flameproof paint:
Quote: You won't need to bake the primer and top coats separately. You can apply 3 coats of primer allowing 30 seconds in between each coat, allow it to dry 10 minutes, apply the top coat allowing 30 seconds in between each coat, let it dry for 10 minutes, apply the Clear, allow 30 seconds in between each coat then then bake it once the top coat has dried overnight.