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Wed Jul 24, 2019 3:32 pm

Paulbeard wrote: ...Activation temp is 250°F/120°C...

In another thread you reported high oil temps...

Paulbeard wrote: Well, it seems that a piece of this is the oil getting too hot (250-260°F)...

...so I suppose this was to be expected.

My understanding is that clean-up should be minimal - was that the case?

Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:11 pm

Paulbeard wrote: Mine went off…I guess it was two days ago on a hot highway run. Opened the lid just now to look at something else and it was blown like a circuit breaker.

Activation temp is 250°F/120°C so if there was any doubt this motor has been running hot, I think I can set that aside.

Are you going to wait for a total meltdown before you decide to replace the thermostat? If i was in Seattle I would do it free of charge. Maybe a beer.

Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:13 pm

This is all I can see of it.

So it seems to work, though it can be a false positive. I never heard it go off so if that's a feature, I didn't experience any benefit.

The only reason I noticed it is because I wanted to see if the oil that seems to misting out of the dipstick tube was sticking to the bottom of the lid. And voila…

It's always something: I should have gone with a reverse transplant and put a WBX in here or a diesel, back when I discovered my PO had been economical with the back story.

Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:14 pm

tjet wrote:

Are you going to wait for a total meltdown before you decide to replace the thermostat? If i was in Seattle I would do it free of charge. Maybe a beer.

Why would I replace something that isn't broken?

Wed Jul 24, 2019 6:41 pm

Wow?!?

1) I assumed that part of the benefit was early warning to a fire due to a sonic boom.

2) Does the fire retardant spew out of one end? It seems that end needs to be well aimed (I thought the tube would split but what do I know?).

Wed Jul 24, 2019 6:46 pm

1, 2. That's what I thought would happen.

Seems like it didn't do what it was supposed to do, namely dump something over the fire.

Wed Jul 24, 2019 7:13 pm

Paulbeard wrote: 1, 2. That's what I thought would happen.

Seems like it didn't do what it was supposed to do, namely dump something over the fire.

The tube is supposed to melt and release the dry chemicals. It look as if the "glass" over the gauge failed and released the contents. I would contact Blazecut and see what they think may have happened.

Wed Jul 24, 2019 7:22 pm

Good call…I'll do that.

Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:28 pm

I installed a BlazeCut in my Vanagon in Spring of 2018. Lately I've looked at the gauge to determine if it's still ready and wasn't sure what the gauge reading meant.

tjet wrote: It's not accurate. It will never be unless you know the temp & barometric pressure it was calibrated at (& have a conversion chart). It would be live having a pressure gauge on a Bic lighter or a propane tank on your backyard grill - these's no point. Heavy = burgers; light = going to Home depot for a new bottle. The best way to check it would be to weight it if you cant see it (or the air bubble). That's how similar liquid-gas vessels (for lack of a better term) are checked for leaks or usage - Halon for example. The other way is a float gauge with a magnetic reading (sealed)

This comment is not accurate. A pressure gauge in an application like this is perfectly fine. The comment you make above is about attempting to tell the LEVEL or the WEIGHT of the propane in your BBQ tank where the pressure not a good indicator of the level.

In this case, the pressure gauge is thee to tell you if the fluid has discharged or not. If the pressure is still good, there is no leak, and the material is still there, ready for a fire.

Now, what is "good" pressure? I contacted BlazeCut via their "Contact" page on their website several days ago and they've not replied. I've found videos online that seem to tell part of the story about the gauge. Finally, I spoke to Mao at SmallCar today, where I'd purchased my BlazeCut last year.

He provided this answer that was once in a BlazeCut video that's no longer online.

"This is a Quick video to clarify any concerns when the T series tube is showing a pressure in the gauge near 0 bar. The T Series system has a operational pressure of 0-15 bar depending on the temperature.
Please check the pressure gauge at operational temperatures (example after the engine has been running)
The liquefied gas agent used in the system is only under a very small amount of pressure in cool ambient temperatures. the Gauge on the BlazeCut T series system is NOT designed to be read like a manual hand held fire extinguisher as they are under much higher pressures.
The best way to inspect your T series system is to see the air bubble in the liquid. The liquid is the BlazeCut Fire suppression agent.
if you see a small bubble the system is OK regardless of the pressure showing on the gauge.
If you do not see the air bubble or the liquid, please contact your local BlazeCut distributor."

The best inspection (as stated above) appears to be checking for an air bubble in the tube, however, it's often not practical to remove the engine cover in Vanagon to do this. When I installed the BlazeCut I made sure to position it so that the gauge was visible, and right-side-up when I peered through the license plate/dipstick door.

Here's what I've deduced about an inspection that only involves the gauge.

1. While cold, the gauge may read zero, or near zero, even while charged, so a cold reading is not reliable.
2. At a normal, warm engine temperature the gauge should read between 2 and 17 bar* (the green zone) indicating the tube is still sealed and that the engine's normal heat has cause pressure in the tube to increase.
3. If there's an engine fire, the pressure will rise due to the high temperatures and the gauge will move up into the red zone prior to the fluid releasing. Should the pressure get sufficiently high (the fire's heat continues) the tube will discharge the fluid into a vapor cloud around the engine and extinguish the flame. I don't see any normal circumstance where one could actually see the gauge in the red zone like this because THERE'S A FIRE and the whole engine bay would be consumed in smoke.
4. After a fire-initiated-discharge, the gauge will return to the zero position because all of the tube's pressure is forever released.
5. If the tube were to experience damage or wear to the point that the fluid leaked out, the gauge would also read zero since all the pressure had been released during the leak.

Bottom line is to check the gauge while it's warm. If it's noticeably above zero and in the green zone the BlazeCut is ok and ready. If it's zero, you'll need to supplement the gauge check with a check of the tube, but it has probably been discharged somehow and will need replacement.

I just checked my own gauge. It's a warm day and I was hoping that this would provide enough heat for the gauge to distinctively move off of the zero point. It was not. I will need to check again when the engine is warm.

(*= Corrected from "PSI" in the original post. Oops!)

Jim Davis

Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:55 pm

I posed that question to Josh Anderson when I bought mine from him in 2013.

I wrote:
...Of greater concern is the state of charge of the unit. Looking at the gauge it seems quite low for something that I hope to be able to rely on for years of protection:

Compare that to the unit shown on your website:

I did not open the package and thus have not been able to consult the user manual on this.

What can you tell me? Is the device guaranteed to remain in the green zone (barring actual deployment) for some period of time?

His reply:

Josh wrote:
...As for the gauge, that is normal. I discussed it with the manufacturer previously. I had the same question as you.

In the green you are good to go. The unit should stay in the green for 10 years. Of course you should check on it, but I assure you that as long as you are in the green it is good. When the unit is exposed to heat the pressure also builds inside the tube before the tube is ruptured.

Please let me know if you have any questions, and Thank you!

One difference I note between yours and mine is that there is a red zone from '0' to '6'. Note: 6 bar is 87 psi, 10 bar is 145 psi.

In any case, I checked mine with the engine at operating temp and it was fine. I have checked it again from time to time but it has been awhile, time to take a look after the next drive.

Wed Jul 31, 2019 10:20 am

SyncroHead wrote:
Here's what I've deduced about an inspection that only involves the gauge.

1. While cold, the gauge may read zero, or near zero, even while charged, so a cold reading is not reliable.
2. At a normal, warm engine temperature the gauge should read between 2 and 17 bar (the green zone) indicating the tube is still sealed and that the engine's normal heat has cause pressure in the tube to increase.
3. If there's an engine fire, the pressure will rise due to the high temperatures and the gauge will move up into the red zone prior to the fluid releasing. Should the pressure get sufficiently high (the fire's heat continues) the tube will discharge the fluid into a vapor cloud around the engine and extinguish the flame. I don't see any normal circumstance where one could actually see the gauge in the red zone like this because THERE'S A FIRE and the whole engine bay would be consumed in smoke.
4. After a fire-initiated-discharge, the gauge will return to the zero position because all of the tube's pressure is forever released.
5. If the tube were to experience damage or wear to the point that the fluid leaked out, the gauge would also read zero since all the pressure had been released during the leak.

Bottom line is to check the gauge while it's warm. If it's noticeably above zero and in the green zone the BlazeCut is ok and ready. If it's zero, you'll need to supplement the gauge check with a check of the tube, but it has probably been discharged somehow and will need replacement.

I got a reply from BlazeCut today and they have confirmed what I wrote above about the operation of the gauge and what you can determine from reading it.

Jim Davis

Wed Jul 22, 2020 8:47 pm

I plan to install (finally) my 9’ Blazecut this week

I chooses to install it on the deck lid, with the Tye-rap, as many others did. Can I choose any design, feel free to make circle anywhere on the deck lid, when I will install it, or there is thricky zone to avoid, to don’t make the Blazecut touch a part of the engine ?

Also, I wonder to know if it « start », let’S say around 20 bar for any reason it melts, will the product make a big mess in the engine, or in case of a false start an engine shampoo might be enough to the suppression fire product ?

Thanks in advance

Thu Jul 23, 2020 8:16 am

I understand the Blazecut is a "clean agent": gas only, leaves no residue.

I look forward to other responses on placement, etc... (mine's not installed yet)

- Dave

Tue Jul 28, 2020 7:41 am

Anyone happen to know of any brick and mortar shops that sell these in person? Autozone, Walmart, Home Depot? Etc. leaving for a trip tomorrow and would love the extra added piece of mind (yes my fuel lines were replaced three years ago and look good).

Tue Jul 28, 2020 8:02 am

maco70 wrote: I plan to install (finally) my 9’ Blazecut this week

I chooses to install it on the deck lid, with the Tye-rap, as many others did. Can I choose any design, feel free to make circle anywhere on the deck lid, when I will install it, or there is thricky zone to avoid, to don’t make the Blazecut touch a part of the engine ?

Also, I wonder to know if it « start », let’S say around 20 bar for any reason it melts, will the product make a big mess in the engine, or in case of a false start an engine shampoo might be enough to the suppression fire product ?

Thanks in advance

I would not let the tube touch any part of the engine. You do not want the tube to get rubbed/thinned and discharge by a vibrating engine piece touching it.

Tue Jul 28, 2020 9:52 am

Shouldn't be a problem avoiding engine contact with a WBX - I found quite a bit of overhead clearance.

You may want to orient the gauge so it can be read through the license plate opening.

Do not know of any over-the-counter source for these.

Tue Jul 28, 2020 7:54 pm

Thanks Guys !

From this thread : https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=730056&highlight=temperature+engine

According to these thread the maximum temperature in the engine bay would never exceed 80 Celsius, which is 175 Fahrenheit

The Blazecut would be activated at 120 Celsius, which is 250 Fahrenheit, so we have 40 Celsius, or 75 Fahrenheit play between the highest engine bay temperature and the Blazecut start point

Thu Feb 04, 2021 2:12 pm

Im getting more info on better protection than blaze cut. its called Proteng. made in USA msg me for details. I would like to make these available if I get enough interest. your toy deserves the best.

Thu Feb 04, 2021 2:47 pm

interesting :idea: price :arrow: longevity is key for me 8)

Thu Feb 04, 2021 2:59 pm

so far looks like $389 plus shipping