TheSamba.com :: View topic - A Hot 2165 engine for my '71 panelvan (beehive valvetrain)

Thu Dec 19, 2013 11:14 pm

If You looked closely to my previous pics you would have seen that it is not a problem as this is just the end of fins. Next to chambers block air passages are free. This China casting is very good. Look back to pics I posted at the beginning of this thread in "parts section".

Fri Dec 20, 2013 12:00 am

I looked carefully; if you are happy with them that’s fine, I’m not looking to criticize. From the posted pictures, none clearly showed that there was good flow through that section, it just looks like bad casting alignment that would reduce flow… if you say the casting gets better as it gets close to the chamber that is great, but without seeing a head on shot of that section it is just how it appeared to me in the three pictures below… and with your attention to detail in your other work, getting the last gram out of every part, it seemed a bit atypical.

After reading 1,000+ of Bob Hover post, I am a bit fanatic when it comes to heads and exhaust port temps, perhaps my problem not yours ;0)

http://static.skynetblogs.be/media/133712/1305066839.JPG
http://static.skynetblogs.be/media/133712/1890161895.JPG
http://static.skynetblogs.be/media/133712/3962576049.JPG

Fri Dec 20, 2013 12:20 am

Fri Dec 20, 2013 12:25 am

Love the post but recommend uploading your pics to samba gallery so when your host changes the address this thread will still be useful instead of a bunch of dead links.

Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:54 am

what a brillent thread, thanks for taking the time!!

Sat Dec 21, 2013 10:51 am

Let's go for pistons and liners prep, first thing is liners prep.

I start by clearing case savers area, as I want to be sure my cylinders sit on case and not on case savers.

Cylinders castings are a little offset.

here we can see that sitting area is small.

here sitting area is larger and go past case saver, and when come heads torquing case saver can be a little pulled by 0.004" and cylinder don't seat on case anymore.

So those areas are trimmed.

then sanded...

#3 deep stud isn't touched.

#1 & #2 have two bottom fins trimmed to clear case nuts.

Then I made some torque plates.

"case" side...

"head" side...

It will also make a cool deck height measuring tool.

Then a tapered ring compressor as Jaycees weren't available locally and I needed it asap.

Then let's go for a good honing session.

Liners are torqued to 23 lb.ft with their chromoly studs. then honed with my 600 grit flex hone, Deves rings seems to like a fine honing.

Flex Hone action

We can see cross hatch on plates.

Cleaning with hot water and soap, then they are dried and oiled.

Next was piston pins mod as they are CB lightweight tool steel ones, but they come for mahle or AA "A" pistons, they're too long for slipper skirt pistons.

AA stock pin (slipper skirt) is 112 grams

CB (standard) is 110 ...

After some CNC turning, they're ready for my AA pistons.

and are now 95 grams.

Next was checking rings gaps.

First rings were a little tight with 0.3 mm gap.

same thing with second rings all at 0.3 gap.

so they were filed until 0.4** mm gaps 0.4 feeler gauge is free and 0.45 gauge doesn't enter.

Third ring was a little tricky as it was the first tim I used Deves rings, look at those gaps!

Thought they were way out of specs then found on Deves website that scrappers can have up to 0.25" gaps! http://www.deves.com/oilring_inst.php

Expander doesn't impress me at all too... But I decided to install them as they are recognized as a good product.

Last thing was balancing.

I started with pistons & pins, 3 were 487 grams and one 488.

Then added clips

all is ok, 3 at 489 grams

one at 490

adding rings ...

scrappers

#1

#2

#3

#4

This gram is continuous thorough the "process"

So made only a few chips as they were near balanced out of the box. We don't see that with Mahle's

now all pistons are 530 grams and ready for coating (coating will be negligible).

Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:25 am

vince1 wrote:

Lost pics already

Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:29 am

they're relinked as I took the wrong ones ;-)

Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:00 pm

vince1 wrote: they're relinked as I took the wrong ones ;-)

cheers for the update, i notice your heads are a lot better then my 044's in terms of air ways!!

Sat Dec 21, 2013 7:07 pm

damn... :shock:

And I thought I was a stickler for the details...

Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:07 pm

Alpha_Maverick wrote: damn... :shock:

And I thought I was a stickler for the details...

Haha same here. I am now convinced my new engine will last less than 2000 miles after reading this thread.

Sun Dec 22, 2013 2:24 pm

Here we go for a good ceramic coating session. Plans are to coat pistons tops, chambers, exhaust port with a CBC1 thermal barrier coating.

First thing to do is blasting all coated surfaces, so I made some fake plug for my heads.

Then heads were carefully wrapped.

Same for pistons.

Go for a good beach session with my friend Franck

Then valves are another time lapped as I wanted to know if exhaust seats were fucked up after blasting, but no all exhaust valves seal well after.

then lets go for a good coating

all go in a good lacker thinner bath, then brake cleaner

some masking, intake valves installed as I don't want to coat intake ports

then 1/2 hour in the oven ...

then heads

ready for engine mock ups !

Sun Dec 22, 2013 3:03 pm

Interesting that you chose to coat the ground seat area, and both sides of the valve head. I had a few rounds of questions with the tech guys at Techline Coatings, and there was some thought that the coating may preventing valve heat transfer back to the head. In the end I didn't want to be the test subject, and am just doing the chambers, valve faces, and exhaust ports. Nice work, what are your impressions on the toughness of the coating?

Sun Dec 22, 2013 3:22 pm

I just copied wat I've seen on Raby's heads o I coated like that.

It has to be sprayed in a very thin coat otherwise it will bubble and flake off, (had a first failed application :oops: ) but after it's been baked it's very tough you can scratch it with your nail without effect, all parts have been cleaned just before final assembly of the engine and brake cleaner has also no effect on it. When it's baked, it's some ceramic like a plate lol :lol:

Sun Dec 22, 2013 4:41 pm

Franck looks like a young Crispin Glover :lol:

Great job on this build, love the attention to detail (details I had no idea even existed!)

C.

Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:07 pm

With just a couple additional details this thread could easily become Sticky worthy “How To Build a VW HP T1 Engine” ( By Vincent Grangier ), it would probably help significantly raise the bar for the average DIY VW mechanic 8)

Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:39 pm

A nice combo of parts with one exception. 48 carbs are way too big as are the 38 mm vents. The low end and midrange is really going to suffer

Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:56 pm

On the rod machining, is the depth just to create a half circle in the rod? I think you used a 4mm cutter, can a slightly smaller cutter be used and still work effectively? I think I have a .090 cutter in the basement with my milling machine I could use.

Great build, thanks for posting all of this.

Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:58 pm

I agree with above, this would be a great sticky.

Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:49 pm

+1 on making this a sticky, somewhere.

with regard to the valve seat: would you not want to lap the valves again, using a fine compound, to just barely get rid of the TBC on the seating surface? This would promote heat transfer out of the valve, while not significantly increasing the heat allowed into the valve itself. Just thinking out loud, here.