TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:39 am

Alright so I'm doing a 74 vw sunroof bug and I've now got the pan completed, now it's motor time. I want to build an 1835cc. I have a 1835 cut block, 110 engle cam with a brand new set of jugs and pistons. I have stock heads and a set of Dellorto 40s. For an everyday driver I can't decide wether to go with the duels or a single weber 44. Also need to know what size rockers to go with and what else I need for this motor. Any information is needed, thanks!

Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:43 am

Figure out what you are doing for heads and cam, then pick the rockers. If you are staying with single HD springs which isn't a bad idea for a small street engine, use the stock 1.1:1 rockers to make life easier. I even own 1.25:1 rockers, but ended up using stock ones just to keep the single springs.

Your Dells are on the large side for an 1835, but if they are clean and work well, I'd try to utilize them.

If you can step up to a larger crank, now's the time to do it. If I pulled apart my 1835, chances are there would be a larger crank in it when it was being put back together.

Stan

Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:53 am

Thanks for all the info. My motor is in pieces so I'm starting over basically building a whole motor. What size crank are you thinking and I'm deff going with a 110 Engle because I got a really good deal on it with some other parts. And will stick heads work? If so should I go with new push rods valves the whole nine yards??

Thu Jul 17, 2014 12:04 pm

I've been real happy (38 years now) with 1835cc DP engine. I have stock non-counterweighted reground crankshaft, stock DP heads (except cut for 92s), stock cam, German 009, single Weber 40DCNF, quiet exhaust, Maxi2 26mm oil pump/filter, external shroud-mounted oil cooler (Arizona).

Plenty of power, what do you plan on doing with this? Mine's been reliable

Thu Jul 17, 2014 12:23 pm

I guess 74mm would be the size to consider if you were to not use the stock stroke. Sounds like you already have A pistons, so either 69mm, 74mm or 76mm stokes are your options. But, with stock stroke it will work fine too and building it is pretty straight-forward.

Stan

Thu Jul 17, 2014 2:58 pm

This is going to be my daily driver but I still want some power out of my motor. Don't want to be "that guy" on the highway if you know what I mean. Is there any certain stroke I should go with if so which size and who should I order my parts through. A lot of people tell me scat has the best parts.

Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:39 pm

Well 1835cc is what you get with a stock 69mm stroke crankshaft and 92mm pistons and cylinders. Yes there may be a larger stroke like a 78.4 mm that makes a bolt together combination that will work with stock push-rod length and stock engine width etc. Stock rod length but would use the more expensive "B" Stroke pistons and cylinders. Not sure check with someone like the ACN people. I built my first stroker engine just last year and used a 74mm Counterweighted Crankshaft that when combined with the short 5.325" racing rods and standard stroke pistons makes a stock geometry engine. I used the 88mm Thick wall Pistons and cylinders that fit a stock case.
But take for example a 78.4X92mm that would be 2074cc I think, Not sure Not sure if the chart is for just a 78.4 stroke or a 78mm stroke crank. Something like one of these Racing Crank's from CB-Performance I would think. Air Cooled.Net also sells cranks. The 78mm crank is a lot of stroke and would be excellent in a heavy VW bus but can also make a nice dependable Bug engine. For Higher Rev's though it pretty easy to get enough power to move a bug around nicely with the stock 69mm vw Crankshaft only get a counterweighted version of it like the welded $125 69mm crank from DeMello. Need a cam (280' 290') and some special valve job heads, lightweight lifters and HD push-rods to go with those Dual Dellortos though (Full Dynamic Balance Job of the Crank to Flywheel and Clutch too.)

Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:56 pm

For a daily: KISS: Keep It Simple, Silly! standard crank and standard (machined) DP heads and standard rocker gear and pushrods. That way, the engine will almost fall together and survive with standard servicing regime.

With a happy cam, that should give you around 60-65hp at the tyres which is not-quite-double the standard 1600's output and will do 100,000+ miles with little more than oil changes and head torque/tappet checking

Be wary of stroker cranks - seen too many 'name brand' units break (or about to - cracks in the same places as the broken ones) due to fatigue at less than 30,000 in daily drivers. Too old to claim warranty, but waaaaaay too young to fail due to old age...

Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:22 pm

So with what I have so far what else do I need to put this baby together. I have the Engle 110 cam, brand new jugs and pistons. Going to have to get my stock Dp heads redone. Most likely going to go with the single 40 weber carb. Do I buy stock size crank to go with that cam?weighted or no?There's soo many different options and paths to take when doing these vw engines it seems like. I'm not trying to stroke out this 1835 I just want to buy what I need and get this bug on the road. Gas is too expensive to run a big truck now days. Hope I'm not making anyone annoyed with all these questions it a just my first VW Motor build and I'm trying to taking it all in at once.

Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:56 pm

Not sure what your saying, Is your single weber a 40mm or a 44mm IDF as you said in the beginning above? Why would you want to mess with a single if you have Dual 40's. Also 44mm IDF is a bit big for stock heads. 40's can be made to work with stock heads if you install 28 or 30mm venturi's. But if you want to run the single carb and it's a 44mm I would think that you should buy some big valve heads like the Rev-Master 049's From DRD or Air Cooled Net or even get the L5 version. The problem with running used heads is they often have unseen problems, like something warped or they have been heat stressed or the spark-plug threads are about to strip out or the valve cover seal area is not true and they will be hard to stop from leaking oil at the valve covers. Better to just get new L3's or L5's.
Is your W-110 cam New? Can't run a used cam with used lifters unless they were previously matched. Lifter to lobe let's see a good close up photo of the cam if it is used? Heads too after you clean the carbon off the combustion chambers so we can see any cracks etc.... How is your case? Have you had it align-bored. does it need it. How is the thrust cut on the case? 1st under 2nd under? If less than 20mm your case is shot! Is the engine your starting with the original form the 73? Or is is some kludge of mixed years and we need to get it back to all dog-house, Gen-Alt all things to figure out now. Do you have your manifolds? Probably a good running build would be the Dual 40 Dellortos with matched Ported manifolds and Stock valve Original VW heads and a 3 angle valve job on them with single hd springs and those 92mm Piston and cylinders you already bought! The Engle W-110 cam is the right size of cam for it. Just got to check its condition. Also consider the CB Performance Ultra-Light lifters or the Scat Lightweight lifters and a set of the adjusters also. Bug Pack makes really nice solid rocker shaft's and Valve spring kits too. Bugpack Valve Spring Kit and don't forget that if you rebuild old heads they need to be good, not cracked and the spark plug threads need to be good and you will want the machine shop that does them to install new valve guides too. What happened to your original crankshaft? You could send it to DeMello for an exchange welded counterweighted crank. Need to have your rods re-sized too! Also A good machine shop that has experience doing VW Air-cooled engines will be what your going to need with this, they can tell you how your case is and how your heads are etc.. Most shops like to align bore the case but if it still holds the main bearings with a good tight fit and "they say" if you can't catch your finger nail on the main bearing saddles then they don't need an align bore. Good to have a larger thrust main bearing cut to a press fit in your case. If you live in a cold climate I would not do the single Weber 44mm IDF configuration as that is one cold blooded rascal in cold weather.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:36 am

Sorry for the confusion Dan my 110 cam is brand new in the box and id be going with a 40 weber not 44. My 40 dual dells are clean I just heard that they aren't very dependable. Have had a lot of people tell me that they can be a pain that'd be the only reason I'd go the other route and buy a single 40. As for the case no I have not had it aligned and bored. This was a running 1835 I have just about all the pieces for it, was tore down to be rebuilt with new parts. I have the original crankshaft not sure if it's any good looks rusty but could just need a good polish. Was thinking about just going new with that too. But as you said the original would work? Hopefully going this weekend to check to see if my block and heads are good. And I love in Florida so it's always hot and humid here.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:55 am

I agree, keep it simple. Use a counter weighted crank, do some light port work in the heads, and an 1835 will be easy to build and fun to drive. Look into the "thick wall" 92 cylinders, they utilize the 92 size bore on the case side, but you bore the heads out as you would for 94mm cylinders. I've not used them myself, but they are supposed to resist warping and cool better.
SD

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:43 am

I have a 1835 with 110 cam, stock nicely ported heads, and 44's. It runs strong and even with a 3.88 gear and 28" tires it runs 15.50's at 87-88 mph. Great little budget build.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:55 am

Yeah, The single Weber in a 40mm carb with 30mm venturi's would also fit nicer in a bug. It's just money! The dual dells would allow a little more top-end. They are very dependable once they are set up right. But for the ease of getting to the carb and installing the engine into the car the single carb would be nice. Either way your going to be able to get good gas milage with the right IDF or DRLA's. When you get some large DIA tires on a Car with a 1835cc engine the combination can bring the gas mileage up to over 40mpg on the highway but around town just enjoying driving it, you know pulling it up in third it will only get about 20mpg. (What do you want for the dell's?) PM me.
Let's see some pictures.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:03 pm

Thank you all for the great advice, tips and opinions. Will keep you update on the build!

Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:14 am

So any update on the build? I'm probably going to have to rebuild my 1835 soon, so I had some of the same questions.