TheSamba.com :: View topic - SCAT 4340 Forged Crankshaft VS. DMS/DPR Crank

Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:44 pm

Due to the lack of quality metals being used in today's crankshafts, I've always used cut German cranks which have had counter weights added/balanced however I just noticed this SCAT 4340 Forged Crank is USA made, which definitely strikes my interest. Opinions on which will be higher quality?

http://shop.kaddieshack.com/SCAT-4340-Forged-Count...ScatVW.htm

Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:49 pm

I have run the DMS crankshafts for a long time and they are great. Try the race weight or the full race weight and you will love it. I know the china cranks can be advertised made in USA as long as the crankshafts are finished ground here in the USA! Don't ask me how i know. All of the crankshafts will work good for ya. But If you want a True made in the USA crank go with DMS or DPR

Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:53 pm

Where a crank is made does not guarantee any level of quality. The China cranks are plenty strong enough for a 200 HP engine.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:14 pm

They are both good.
Only difference IMO is If/when you lose a bearing the mild steel crank can be repaired but a 4340 crank usually cracks.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:23 pm

For what it's worth, when I called Scat to ask why my crank was taking long to deliver, the guy on the phone said they were in full production for the Nascar season and giving them priority over everyone else. I didn't mind waiting in line because I knew I was getting a fresh one out of the oven.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:35 pm

vwracerdave wrote: Where a crank is made does not guarantee any level of quality. The China cranks are plenty strong enough for a 200 HP engine.
I agree although I selectively wont use a forged china crank over 160/170 hp because at that level, your better off buying a high quality crank anyway. Like scat, dpr, or dms. Trends have shown that cb, revmaster, and bugpack cranks are up to the task. I have not used any of them to date. I do have a bugpack at home in a box and it does look like quality.

I use both cranks in my personal engines. Scat 4340 forged cranks are sexiness. And dpr cranks are a work of beauty. When it comes down to choosing, it would depend on the price of the scat crank. Using either is a no fail outcome.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:07 pm

I wont waste my $$$ on another welded crank.but thats me.I do have over 100000 miles on a scat stroker crank,still std, 12 years old. as for the welded stroker I bought new... well it's still on the shelf.I have 2 china cranks,(84&86)they seem to be fine.(havent used the 86 mm yet.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:13 pm

The only Scat Cranks that are made in the USA are their Billet Flanged, and Pro-Comp Ones. The Volksracer's are not. In Scat's Catalog, the Flanged/Pro-Comp Cranks have next to them "made in house", while the Volksracer Cranks do not.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:22 pm

forged in china and finish machined in USA is made where?

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:26 pm

I like it when they say "made in the usa from global components"

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:32 pm

The last two scat cranks I laid eyes on were in three parts, soon to be four: Both cracked at less than 30,000km. No motorsport.

There is a lot to be said for the quality of a competently welded/counterweighted factory VW forged crank.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:37 pm

257scramjet wrote: If you want a True made in the USA crank go with DMS or DPR

I've also run DMS before, and they were made from German cores.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:15 pm

Yes the german core is top quality!!!

neil68 wrote: 257scramjet wrote: If you want a True made in the USA crank go with DMS or DPR

I've also run DMS before, and they were made from German cores.

Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:51 pm

VWCOOL wrote: The last two scat cranks I laid eyes on were in three parts, soon to be four: Both cracked at less than 30,000km. No motorsport.

There is a lot to be said for the quality of a competently welded/counterweighted factory VW forged crank. Ive seen morons that could break a rubber hammer with a rubber anvil on a rubber table in a rubber room.there is a lot to be said for good workmanship after the parts are bought&before there assembled.even the "exsperts" can effup good parts.

Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:42 pm

mark tucker wrote: VWCOOL wrote: The last two scat cranks I laid eyes on were in three parts, soon to be four: Both cracked at less than 30,000km. No motorsport.

There is a lot to be said for the quality of a competently welded/counterweighted factory VW forged crank. Ive seen morons that could break a rubber hammer with a rubber anvil on a rubber table in a rubber room.there is a lot to be said for good workmanship after the parts are bought&before there assembled.even the "exsperts" can effup good parts.

yeah you are absolutely right.

Both cranks were in those 'turn-key 0000 mile' engines you see advertised in the magazines. It was real shame for the owner of these engines as both vehicles were used in his business - in fact they WERE his business - so the downtime cost him real money as well as the repair costs

Both engines were the same age and imported to Oz at the same time so maybe it was simply a 'bad day at the pickle factory'...

Sat Jul 19, 2014 6:31 pm

yeah I've seen that happen.
The majority of china cranks ARE good, but when it comes to ME putting one in an engine I just have a hard time doing it. If I can get a old welded crank and it MAGs good then I don't have any worries.

Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:37 am

You guys do know that the majority of the crank forgings are coming from the same place right? So no matter who you buy from, the new forgings are likely all the same as far as China cranks go. Mine has taking a beatings in my 1915 turbo for many years, I see no reason not to trust them. I'd trust one long before a welded counterweight crank.

Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:12 pm

You say 'many years' Miniman... but what distance?

The broken cranks I referred to were 30,000km (broken) and 28,000km (cracked and about to let-go)

If yours is years old it may be built to a higher quality level than today's junk built for people who - sadly - value dollars over quality.

Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:29 pm

It's never really changed that I'm aware of. All the way back to berg/okrassa/whitfield

Shorter strokes always last longer then the long ones (82+).

Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:06 pm

the 3 welded cranks I have had my hands on all had issues,bad issues from the prosess,not from usage. one was a true work of art with fullcircle weights,it sure was purty...but it was shit as far as Im concerned as it was used but a big name builder.then came to me after about 800 miles....in a bunch of boxes.but the entire thing was a effing mess not just the crank,but it had welding& machining issues. the other two had machining issues too. I just dont see any reason to use one,none at all.but yes they work even the effed up ones worked....or did they???