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Sun Jan 18, 2015 3:14 pm

Hi

The current spark plugs I have in my 2110cc is D8ea which are on the cold side. Just swapped out the cam to a Engle 120 from a VZ 25. Was wondering if the D8ea is ideal for what I'm running? It's used only for around town or some freeway driving but not raced.

2110cc
Dual 40 redline webers
9.1:1 compression
37.5 x 42 heads

Any help would be appreciated.

Sun Jan 18, 2015 3:29 pm

You need a NGK 6 heat range. The NGK 8's are used mostly for turbo's. Bosch uses a 8 heat range for stock plugs.

Sun Jan 18, 2015 3:47 pm

On the NGK website, I states that the smaller the number the hotter and larger the number the colder. So 8 is on the cold side or in the middle. Bosch is the opposite of the ngk heat range

Sun Jan 18, 2015 3:59 pm

Youre too cold like dave already mentioned. I run d7ea for 11cr.

Sun Jan 18, 2015 4:02 pm

Thanks for clarifying. Wasn't sure what I needed.

Sun Jan 18, 2015 4:12 pm

"stock" heat range is

Bosch 8
NGK 5

An NGK 8 is 3 steps colder. I agree an NGK 6 is a good choice.

Sun Jan 18, 2015 4:23 pm

If I can tag along on this thread...what NGK plugs should I be using in my 2332 cc, 10:1 CR street-strip Beetle? I've been using D8EA as that's what our local motorcycle shop carries. Beetle is 90% street driven, but I also drag race every Friday night.

Sun Jan 18, 2015 4:33 pm

I rocked NGK B5HS plugs on my cars. Resistorless and in the stock heat range.

Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:10 pm

One more question, what should I gap the D6EA plugs?

Thanks

Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:52 am

between .024 - .028 seems to be good.

Mon Jan 19, 2015 6:02 pm

my last 3 motors use the D6EA. .028 works fine.

Tue Jan 20, 2015 6:28 pm

neil68 wrote: If I can tag along on this thread...what NGK plugs should I be using in my 2332 cc, 10:1 CR street-strip Beetle? I've been using D8EA as that's what our local motorcycle shop carries. Beetle is 90% street driven, but I also drag race every Friday night.
As far as the heat range, take a look at the plug. There should be a noticeable mark on the electrode strap on how hot it's getting. If the mark is at the end of the strap, the plug is on the cold side. If it's closer to the threads, it on the hot side. Ideal is right in the middle. Another thing to think about is capacitive discharge ignitions, like from MSD/Mallory, usually have multiple sparks in the lower rpm ranges, and this can heat up the plugs. I've heard of people using one step colder plug from what they normally used when adding a CDI. Here's a pic of a plug with the heat range color change of the strap close to the middle.

Tue Jan 20, 2015 6:49 pm

From what I see,

too cold
jetting too rich
it's detonating too.

Not very healthy

Tue Jan 20, 2015 7:16 pm

[email protected] wrote: From what I see,

too cold
jetting too rich
it's detonating too.

Not very healthy

We're all here to learn, elaborate? It's a plug well worn past its prime being used with a 6AL. It was out of a 1776 that made 114 at 5500 at the wheels, but I'm sure the owner would be interested in getting more.

Please post a pic of a plug with an ideal heat range, and one that isn't too rich, or detonating?

Tue Jan 20, 2015 8:35 pm

http://www.ek9.org/index.php?attachments/spark-plug-reading-jpg.18643/

there is too much color on the porcelain (too rich). Tiny balls are signs of detonation. The ground strap has no band on it, too cold.

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/plug-pictures.html

is a really good article on plug reading.

Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:04 pm

Which tiny balls are you referring to, the stuff on the edge by the threads around 8 o'clock? I'll suggest a BP4ES for the next plug change because the one in the pic is a 6.

Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:14 pm

I'd say to keep the heat range the same for now. There is so much fuel and probably timing too, that you have to make changes a little at a time to get "in the ballpark".

For example, the plug will appear too cold if it's also way rich. We know it's rich from the color. So take some fuel out and then re-check. Until the porcelain is mostly white it's too rich. As the fuel is taken out it will run hotter and the band coloring may come in.

I normally suggest an NGK 5 or 6 for most folks. I can't imagine many engines where a 6 is too cold. But the fuel would explain it's appearance.

Wed Jan 21, 2015 5:31 am

Timing is set at 30 degrees with a Bosch 009, but will look into the fuel. We'll have to do some load runs down the highway, and check things. The plug in the pic was pulled about 5000 miles past its prime after running down town to get a pizza. The ek9 link didn't have any heat range pictures with a noticeable color change in the strap. The dragtimes link did have one pic, "Ryan's Plugs AKA 66 283. Almost perfect fuel and timing,....", but they have the same type of color change in the middle of the electrode like the one pictured. Do you have any more resources that clearly show a difinitive "line" indicating heat range?

Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:50 am

you'll know it when you see it. Look for a distinct color change on the ground strap. Ideally this color change is at the bend. If the plug is too hot the change is closer to the threads, and if it's too cold you'll see it closer to the strap end if at all.

But right now there is too much fuel. So adjust that and re-check.

Remember that thread a couple weeks ago from the guy that had the anti-seize on his plugs, there were good pictures in that thread.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=615584

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/how-to-read-plugs.html

has more photos.

Thu Aug 09, 2018 10:13 pm

Is it correct to be going cooler with a CDI ? So perhaps an NGK 7 or 8 plug?