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Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:04 pm

Can you guys give me suggestions on specs for a 2110. Daily driven on pump gas. What cam and heads? Which rods? Want a reliable build for use with 44 idfs

Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:13 pm

Bus engine...82x90,5
Alu case
Cb 044 40x35,5 ported
W110
8,5 compression
Aa rods 5.5
Webers 40mm
Great torq engine

Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:41 pm

82x90.5
DPR Crank
Mahle P&C's
CB 5.325 rods
Engle FK7 cam
SLR lifters
CR 8:1
ported and polished 044 40x35.5 heads
1.4 rockers (berg, CB, or SCAT in that order)
010 and bosch blue coil
1 1/2 in header with appropriate muffler
SACHS heavy duty clutch and pressure plate

dont forget - full flowed, case savers, lifter bore bushings, case clearancing, fully balaced rotating assebly etc

simple and fairly easy build that should get you well above 130 hp with your carbs, potential to achieve 30mpg's on the highway and will run like a stocker til you get on the go-fast pedal....asuming the build quality is up to par and the tuning is all in order of course.

Sat Feb 28, 2015 2:52 am

Both combinations are real good, but forget the IDF'S go with the Dellorto's.
Trust me.

Sat Feb 28, 2015 11:56 am

What is it going in and what is your budget? The 2110 i just sold wouldve been a nice candidate for many applications.

Sat Feb 28, 2015 12:20 pm

cedricv wrote: Bus engine...82x90,5
Alu case
Cb 044 40x35,5 ported
W110
8,5 compression
Aa rods 5.5
Webers 40mm
Great torq engine

Basically what I have in my truck. But with 44HPMXs, Chromoly rods, Bosch 010, stock pressure plate, not aluminum case, and 1-1/2" 4-to-1 collector.

You might as well bump up to a 2180 though.

Sat Feb 28, 2015 12:21 pm

Going in a 1970 bug convertible. Don't really have a budget. But it's not going to be a race car either. So I guess even a 1776 would do. But I'm power greedy. Just want a reliable motor. Which is why I wanted to use 90.5 Pistons. Reduce heat for summer with top down

Sat Feb 28, 2015 12:28 pm

don't go 1776, that's no fun :lol:

Definitely stay with doghouse cooling so you don't melt the heads. Do you have a vented decklid? Stock gearing?

Sat Feb 28, 2015 1:12 pm

A china crank will be fine for this build. Id do the carcraft empi crank kit with h beams. They come with them. Bearings, cam etc 595.00. W120/w125 or fk8. Cb 2 pc lightwieght lifters. 12 or 13 lb flywheel. Balance rotating parts. If you have the funds, then a dpr crank and flywheel combo is a quality set up. Tims stage 1s are nice but stepping up to stage 2s would make for a fun runner. Id aim for 9-10cr dependent on final cam choice. Weber 44s or Dell 45s would make a good runner. A bugpack or a1 merged 1 5/8" and muffler of your choice. Single or dual.

Sat Feb 28, 2015 1:33 pm

For a bug you won't need that much stroke! Even a stock 69mm counterweighted crank can make a really nice driver. And it would get much better milage. Certain crank and rod combos as well as "A" Stroke or "B" stroke Pistons & Cylinders become necessary when playing with anything other than stock 69mm cranks and stock rod lengths.
One combination I like is the 74mm Crank with the 5.325" H-beam rods. This combination allows the use of everything else to be stock. But if you use stock pistons or 88mm piston and cylinders you will need to trim the skirts a little. The 90.5' would perhaps need just a little trimming to the skirts the 92mm would totally clear.

Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:20 pm

I just did a short trip of 250 miles on the motor in my signature. I drove 65-70 mph with a 20 mph head wind in one direction. I averaged 29 MPH. This is with IDA's. Mileage is in the tune of the motor, Not size.

If you go over a 2ltr don't under cam it. Be sure to also run the right size exhaust as well. 1 1/2" exhaust is the minimum. an 1 5/8" will run cooler and have better performance unless the engine is super mild and then what is the point.

I use a chinese crank and rods with no problems.

Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:52 pm

I have built a lot of 2110's and they all are great long lasting engines, Have fun. Most run best with a 1 5/8 exhaust :wink:

Sat Feb 28, 2015 7:39 pm

I would copy Glenn's 2180. I would run fine with dual 44 IDF's

Sat Feb 28, 2015 8:19 pm

2110's also come in the 76mm stroke by 94mm bore configuration. Minor if any case clearancing for crank when using the suggested rods

76mm 4340 crank
94mm B pistons
5.5 Scat rods
40x35.5 heads
Cam to match compression ratio and RPM goals.

This crank combo makes for a nearly stock width and is easy to dial deck height

Sat Feb 28, 2015 9:08 pm

David Wayne wrote: 2110's also come in the 76mm stroke by 94mm bore configuration.

The standard accepted engine size 76X94 = 2109

Sun Mar 01, 2015 10:47 am

76 x 94 = 2109.69

82 x 90.5 = 2109.89

The math teacher in me uses 3.14159 as Pi :)

But I understand the establishment usually doesn't like the 76 crank and old schoolers love the 90.5's for longevity.

Sun Mar 01, 2015 11:14 am

It's just the naming convention. A 2109 is different from a 2110.

But a 1914 and 1916 are the same as a 1915

Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:15 pm

David Wayne wrote: 76 x 94 = 2109.69

82 x 90.5 = 2109.89

The math teacher in me uses 3.14159 as Pi :)

But I understand the establishment usually doesn't like the 76 crank and old schoolers love the 90.5's for longevity.

The standard VW accepted numbers amung all engine builders is 2109 so please use it to avoid confusion.

Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:57 pm

Got me a 2054 stroker with dual 44 IDFs. Engle 100 cam. 8:1 CR
What should my jetting be?

Haven't got motor installed yet

Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:20 pm

to avoid confusing the crap out of everyone, the definitions are

76 x 94 = 2109cc

82 x 90.5 = 2110cc

ignore the fact that the displacements are virtually identical. If you refer to them as 2109 and 2110s, people will know what you have without confusion. Put another way, anyone that is then "confused" is someone you do not want to be taking advice from, because they don't know as much as they think they do!